Luperon, DR
19.54.025N
70.56.934W

Today was not for the faint of heart! Roger & Elaine and Dale & I met Jose our tour guide at 8 am to began our tour to the waterfalls. We had been told to bring an extra change of clothes, towels, and shoes you didn't mind getting wet. These instructions were my first inkling that this "tour" was going to be a little different.

Jose told us of some of the history and pointed out areas of interest along the way. He described one tragic event back in the 1950's, involving the miscommunication of a dictator and his troops. Trujillo, the dictator, instructed his troops to clean up the ruins of the city of La Isabella (the first city in the Americas founded by Columbus in 1493-which, at the time, was "remarkably intact") for a visit of Spanish archeologists. His troops misunderstood and bulldozed the ruins.

As we wound our way through the narrow streets with tiny houses built only a few feet back (very much like the rural areas of Puerto Rico) Jose explained that although schooling is not mandatory, 12 years of public schools are offered and encouraged. Larry, our ex-pat driver, also added that the Dominicans are consumed with obtaining wealth and have recognized that for the younger generation, that means education.

We finally made it to the base of a mountain that contains 27 levels of waterfalls and stopped to pick up a guide; Robert, a muscular young man in his early 20's joined us. Jose told us that we would appreciate having Robert during our visit to the waterfalls. We then turned off the main road (a 2 lane blacktop) onto a dirt road through sugarcane fields which ended at a wide spot in front of a low lying river.

We climbed out of our mini bus and peeled down to our bathing suits. We were instructed to leave our jewelry and money in the mini bus where Larry would stay. We were to continue on with our towels, cameras and the life jackets and helmets they rented to us for $1 US. (Another clue?)

While we donned our life jackets and helmets, I watched as a young barefoot boy (about 8-10 yrs.) with a long stick, herd a dozen or so thin cows with their calves along the river bank on our side, across the river and up the hill on the other side. A few minutes later, Jose and Robert (without the stick) shepherded us along the same path.

We crossed the river through chilly, knee deep water and up a dirt road through an ever thickening canopy of subtropical growth. Various trees and plants had their names hand painted on signs in front of them. Fences composed of sheared cactus or small posts made from tree limbs with barbed wire separated us from the cattle and goats grazing in the adjacent meadows.

The road came to a "Y"; the cows went one way, we went another. Our path narrowed and we waded across a few more streams until we came to a pool with a small waterfall beyond. The vegetation parted just enough to let filtered light warm the little lean-to where we were instructed to leave the remainder of our belongings to begin our assent up the waterfalls. It was evident this was going to be a different kind of tour.

Water that was chilly when we waded through it, was downright frigid when we swam across it to the 5' falls beyond. Robert led the way and scampered up the rocks to the next level. He would then turn and direct us to place one foot here, another there, lift our left hand to him and don't use your knees to crawl up the rocks, etc. One level had a ladder made of tree limbs that we could avoid the rushing waters of the falls; the rest didn't and we had to force our way through them. Each level had a pool that we had to swim across (not easily done in a life jacket and shoes that float); sometimes the sun would filter down to the water and create shimmers of light along the rocks. Some levels had trickles of water descending completely around us into the pool. That which came over the rocks was actually warm and we would stand beneath them for a quick warm shower. We climbed 7 levels of falls in this manner until we reached a point where Robert said that we could go no further. Then we turned around and headed back.

Each level back, you had to either slide down the rocks you had previously climbed or work your way to another place closer to the pool and jump or dive down. The first couple of levels we all sat, crossed our arms in front of us, placed our legs out straight and leaned forward. Wahoo! The ride through the rocks was exhilarating; I was appreciative of the helmet (just in case.) Dale started jumping with the guides (I'm not sure of whether it was due to his long legs or the rough ride on his butt - he says that it was because he's a manly man), but then we all had to jump on the last level. (Big Time Wahoo!!) Both Roger & Elaine said that they had never jumped from any height, let along one of that height.

We treked back to the mini bus the way we had come and headed off for lunch. At the little restaurant where we stopped, we dined on a back patio overlooking a beautiful area of lush green vegetation with aviaries of parakeets along the railings. They prepared a buffet of roast chicken, stewed pork, stewed beef, fried mashed plantains, white rice, rice and peas, cabbage, tomatoes, a vegetable I didn't recognize, bananas, papaya, and anything you wanted to drink, which included beer or rum. A perfect lunch in any culture.

Once we filled our stomachs, Jose took us to see the Brugal ranch. Although this family owns the 3rd largest rum distillery in the world, their pride and joy is a 3000 lb white Brahma bull which is led out, tied to a post and tourists are encouraged to hop on and sit a spell. Elaine took off around the back end of him and was up the stairs and on his back in a flash. Not to be outdone but certainly not willing to walk behind him to do it, I was next. Dale took a picture to prove it.

Our next stop was at a botanical garden begun by a family and handed down for at least a couple of generations. I'm not sure how it evolved, but now the gardens belong to the state. Jose explained that the mahogany trees that grow on the island are protected and that those who dare to harvest them can be fined and imprisoned (even if they grow on the land that you own). He followed up by saying that people do poach the timber from time to time. Its pretty overgrown now, but I took several pictures because you can see that at one time, it was a beautiful garden. I saw one lone gardener where there should be a dozen tending the plants. There were topiaries, herb gardens, rose gardens, passion fruit trees, cocoa fruit trees, tropical flowers of all kinds, and many exotic wood trees. There were terraces down the side of a steep embankment and palms trees formed into arches along the pathways. Words will never do it justice.

Elaine made an interesting observation. Most tourist attractions are usually surrounded by souvenir shops full of tacky little items made in China. Here we saw only one vender near the bottom of the falls selling hand made jewelry made from the local stones polished into gleaming beauty. A refreshing change and one I'm sure won't last for very long.

After our tour was completed and we returned to our home on the water, we collapsed for an hour nap before getting up and heading over to the Yacht Club for happy hour and popcorn. Thank heavens we're taking tomorrow off for a few miscellaneous maintenance projects. All this fresh air and exercise will kill me.