Friday, February 10, 2006

Sun Bay, Vieques
18.05.540N
65.27.381W


We waved goodbye to Mac at 6:45am as we pulled out of Palmas del Mar Harbor and turned our bows toward Sun Bay on Vieques. We have been telling everyone about the great phosphorescent bay near there where we used to take our children when they were younger and couldn't wait to show them in person. We'd heard that the locals are now making tours to the bay and discouraging boaters from entering on their own but we thought we'd just wait until after dark and give it a shot anyway.

We had a great transit across to Vieques and anchored by 10:15 am in Sun Bay which is beautifully accented by a long, white sand, crescent shaped beach. Incredibly, we had the bay to ourselves while the next bay down, Puerto Real, was rather crowded.

At lunchtime, we dinghied to the almost deserted beach and walked the short distance to the little seaside village of Esperanza, which has become quite the little tourist town. Scooters, kayaks and jet ski rentals were everywhere; gift shops and restaurants were peppered in between. Photo-ops along the wide cobblestone walkway bordering the beach appeared by every palm tree as you looked out at the sea with the mountains in the distance. We stopped for some of the famous burgers at the Bananas Bar & Grill (which we paid premium prices for) before returning to our respective boats.

Dale took the opportunity to put the two zinks on the shaft while we were anchored in clear water. The remaining zink that had been on our shaft was now completely gone, so it was good timing. With us using two zinks every six months, we'll make sure to have a few in our inventory before we leave Puerto Rico.

The full moon was already up when evening came and we joined everyone on MTNest. Mike played his sundown sax melodies before we sat down to a wonderful pork chop dinner. About 8 pm, we divided ourselves into two groups of 3; Elaine, Dale and I in one boat and Mike, Terri and Roger in the second, for the ride over to Mosquito Bay, the official name of the phosphorescent bay.

As I mentioned earlier, Dale and I have done this a couple of times before. We know that it can be a wild ride if the wind is up but since all was quiet in the bay, we hoped that the small swell in the bay would be all that we'd encounter. Of course, a small swell in the bay means a large swell outside of the bay and our one mile dinghy ride turned into one of the water rides amusement parks yearn for. Dale tried to minimize the splash by taking the waves at an angle but then we ended up getting closer to the rocks we were trying to avoid. Eventually, we made it around the last rocky outcropping, soaked to the skin, and turned into the bay.

Once again, the conditions calmed and by the time we entered through the narrow into the phosphorescent bay, it was flat and glassy. We turned off our outboard light and kept going. And going. And going, and going, and going. Did I mention that it was a full moon? In the past, I remembered that the glow from the fish movement would be a green glow when there was any moon showing and a neon blue glow without any light. What little we could see tonight was pale white and hard to discern from just the moonlight shining on our own wake. Needless to say, it was 'much ado about nothing' and a total bust. Thank heavens the ride back was an exhilarating surf and much, much quicker. However, we felt for Elaine knowing that Roger was going to be crumbling for some time about Mr. Toad's Wet & Wild Ride. If their dinghy was anything like ours, it took almost 10 minutes for the water to empty out when we got back.