Friday, June 30, 2006

True Blue Bay,
Grenada
11.59.955N
61.46.170W


What a day! It took 4 dinghies and another line to finally raise our stern anchor. If we ever set that anchor in a storm we’ll chafe through our lines before it drags.

It started off with Dale in the dinghy trying to lift the stern line until he was straight above it; that didn’t work. So we tried pulling in the line as much as we could by having me push the Palace with our dinghy on the opposite side of our stern anchor so that Dale could try to hoist the anchor straight up over the side; then I‘d scamper back on board and let out our primary anchor to bring us closer. We were making progress but slowly. While Dale was holding the boat with brute strength, I was running back and forth between the anchor windless on the bow and the dinghy at the stern when others saw us struggling and came to help. We ended up having one dinghy pushing on the starboard bow, another pushing on the starboard stern, another looped a line on our stern anchor line and pulled in the opposite direction to finally break the anchor loose from the bottom, while Dale heaved in the anchor line at the same time and me on the bow lengthening the primary anchor chain. They eventually brought up the anchor suspended between the dinghy with the looped line and the Palace because each time it dropped back into the water, it set itself again.

Mind you , all of this was between two boats anchored close to us. Once we began to swing free, I switched directions and brought the primary anchor chain in as fast as its little motor would go and then held my breath until it was evident we weren’t going to hit anyone.

And what a mess! After 3 weeks of setting in warm salt water, the line had developed its own eco system which came off in a muddy, smelly mess all over the back of our boat. What wasn’t on the boat was on Dale. We dumped the line in a bucket of Clorox and rinsed off the back end.

Then Dale crawled back into our dinghy, eased himself along the side to the bow and went to work on the primary anchor chain with a scrub brush. He’d scrub a few inches of sea growth off the chain while I rinsed and then raised it a few more inches. Miraculously, after about 15 feet, it was clean.

With that chore done, we lifted the dinghy back into the davits, raised the primary anchor the rest of the way and headed to the next bay to refuel.

As we approached the fuel dock, Dale told me to bring her in port side to while he ran around putting out the various lines to secure us to the dock. It wasn’t until we saw the concrete wall that either one of us remembered and both screamed FENDERS in unison!

Folks, you would have been proud of me. I stopped that big girl in her tracks and hovered parallel about 2 1/2 feet off that concrete dock until Dale had several semi-inflated fenders in place. Wind, current and an angel sitting on my shoulder certainly helped. Can you tell we haven’t pulled into a dock in a while?

Tom & Jordan off St. Christopher (we last saw them in Puerto Rico) dropped by the fuel dock to say hi, while Dale (in all of his muddied glory) hurried to the customs office to check us out of the country. Unfortunately, while there he received a stern lecture about not getting an extension on our passports. Carriacou, one island back, is part of Grenada. We checked into Carriacou back in mid-May. With all of the hubbub waiting for the inverter and then waiting for a good weather window, we had passed our one month mark a couple of weeks back. Dale being your normal boater covered in smelly mud, pleaded insanity, begged forgiveness and was begrudgingly given pardon.

After a few more pleasantries with Tom & Jordan, we eased on back to True Blue Bay, circled a few times among the boats and mooring balls, then elected to snag a mooring instead of tempting fate with an anchor.

We were settling in when we saw Buddy (Indigo Moon) heading over to customs in his dinghy. His faded pink Foxy’s hat was on backwards, his red & black napsack slung low on his back, he was standing in his dinghy with the throttle wide open in one hand,while the other held the painter for balance (Georgetown style). A smile was plastered from ear to ear. This was a man in his element or a kid out for a joy ride.

It wasn’t too long after that that I heard Dale talking to someone. It was Buddy.

We all got together for Mexican Night at the resort restaurant for our last dinner together. Buddy kept asking everyone if they had seen him. He told us how he had seen the mooring ball and remembered that it had a long line attached to it, so he had given it a wide berth when he came back from his customs run. Apparently, not wide enough. He said that one minute all was right with the world and the next he was flying through the air, arms outstretched like Superman!

We were all amazed. First, that he hadn’t broken his neck. Next, that he hadn’t lost his flip flops. He credited his survival to the fact that as an attorney he had litigated enough boating cases to know that you always wear the kill switch attached to your wrist ("they always come back to getcha" he told us). Dale had gone out in time to see him retrieving his hat and climbing back into his dinghy. Buddy, on the other hand, seemed truly disappointed that no one saw him fly like Superman.

We’re going to miss these guys.

Thursday, June 29, 2006

True Blue Bay, Grenada
11.59.955N
61.46.170W


Today was rainy and windy; then ended with dead calm. We were all scrambling for a look a the grib sheets to see if we can sneak out a day early. It’s a definite maybe.

Dale managed to run up a new flag halyard and rearranged the cleat it’s attached to between the showers. I tried cleaning the isinglass to get out all of the red sand they’ve been collecting by being rolled up.

Then we both sat back down dripping wet from sweat. The humidity is amazing here. The sheer act of moving causes you to bead up. You’d think with all of the sweating we’re doing here, we’d lose a few pounds. Dale looks like a bean pole because he hasn’t been able to keep up his exercise routine. I look like the Stay-Puff Marshmallow Man.

We got together with Carol & Wayne and Mike & Sara on Wayfinder for our last social hour together for a while. Even if we don’t leave for Trinidad tomorrow, we’ll hoist anchor and head over to Prickly Bay for fuel and check out of customs. Then we’ll probably short anchor in Hog Island until we’re ready to leave.

The big problem is going to be hoisting our stern anchor, a/k/a our storm anchor. With the squalls that have passed by here, we’re pretty well dug in. Yesterday, the local charter company sent out a diver to pull up several moorings that, until they attached a float to them, were unknown to us. Then they moved one of their boats to a mooring that suddenly appeared very close to us. Once we lift the stern anchor, I think we’ll come way too close to that boat. Dale said he was more worried that we would swing too close to Wayfinder. Again, they anchored close to us but with our stern anchor holding us in place, it wasn‘t a problem. Tomorrow should be a very interesting day.

Wednesday, June 28, 2006


True Blue Bay, Grenada
11.59.955N
61.46.170W

Bad day for Wayfinder today. We all learned that the motor they had ordered doesn’t fit. Apparently the manufacturer changed the design of the motor. However ,Nordhaven specifically designed a space for the motor to fit into and now the newly designed motor doesn’t fit into it. Distraught is probably too strong a word to use to describe their situation, so let’s just say they are frustrated to the max over the whole thing.

They do have a good mechanic who, after speaking with the design manufacturer, can jury-rig the whole thing. He doesn’t like the idea and now it’s turned into a ‘who’s going to stand behind the product once it’s installed’ dilemma. We really feel bad for them.

Carol and I reminded the guys that it was a very quiet night and we probably could have made the trip to Trinidad yesterday. The guys reminded us that there were squalls around Trinidad and if we had run into them, it would have been us screaming bloody murder. Stalemate!
Saturday is looking like the day we’ll have to go, come hell or high water. The next wave is supposed to be bigger and longer before the waves die back down.

We played Mexican Dominos with Carol and Wayne again last night. This time Dale won. Once again, I came in last. I’ve become rather adept at having the most points with the least amount of bones in my hand.

Tuesday, June 27, 2006

True Blue Bay, Grenada
11.59.955N
61.46.170W


Dale was one happy camper today. It was the first morning in almost a month that he was able to have his morning cup of coffee. I really didn’t realize that he had given it up until I had to clean the grounds out of the sink today and it suddenly dawned on me that he had changed his morning routine during our power shortage.

On the other hand, I was happy that I didn’t have to choose between washing my hair or washing the dishes with hot water. I have actually grown accustomed to taking tepid showers. They’re refreshing in this hot, humid climate. Still, I prefer to have hot water for my hair.

With our departure time delayed, we immediately fell back into our routine of getting our chores done in the morning, reading or playing on the computer mid-day and heading up to the pool during the afternoons.

After discussing the relative ease of this blog site, both Carol (TakeTime48) and Sara (WayfinderTravels) have decided to open their own blog sites. Carol is uploading mostly pictures at this point. I think Sara is doing the same thing.

Indigo Moon is out of the yard and anchored right behind us. Now it’s Free Spirit’s turn on the hard. We bump into them every once in a while. They were here in True Blue with us for a short time about a week ago before checking out some of the other anchorages. While their boat is in the yard (waiting for parts from South Africa) they’ll be staying at the resort.

Carol and I both commented that the weather was much nicer today but the guys said there was another wave coming through and we’d most likely get caught out in it. So here we sit. Not too bad a life on the whole.

Monday, June 26, 2006

True Blue Bay, Grenada
11.59.955N
61.46.170W

What’s that saying about the “best laid plans of mice and men?”

This morning came with blustery weather and a swell we have never seen the likes of in this harbor. Still, Dale went to check on the status of the inverter with the idea that we were leaving by 5pm. It wouldn’t be delivered to the store until noon.

When he came back, we discussed the merits of crossing in weather such as this. With wave heights of 7-9 feet on the beam and wind speeds of 20-25kts, it was at the border of our comfort level. The wind never did shift around. We were already leaning toward the “no go” side of the equation when our buddy boat Take Time radioed and said that it was a definitely a no go for them (they’re a power boat.) That pushed us over the edge and the anxiety levels dropped off immediately.

Later, when Dale went back to get the inverter and was told that it couldn’t be delivered to us until after 2, it wasn’t a problem. He had laid hands on the box, checked that it was the right part and was whistling Dixie on the way back to the boat. When it was delivered at 2:30, he had it installed by 3, the batteries were charged by 4 and a whoop of satisfaction could be heard throughout the harbor. We were up at the pool by 4:15.

We joined the crews of Wayfinder, Indigo Moon, and Take Time standing at the railing watching about half of the boats that had wanted to leave, take off. The rest of us decided to wait for the next window. We radioed Moon Goddess when she was about 3 miles out for a weather report. They were taking water over the decks on a regular basis and were traveling with a double reefed main and several rolls in the jib. When we saw lightening on the horizon later in the evening, we said a quick prayer that everyone made it without incident.

Sunday, June 25, 2006

True Blue Bay, Grenada
11.59.955N
61.46.170W


Since it looks very promising that tomorrow we’ll have an inverter, I’m trying to get all of my posts uploaded before I lose my internet connection. The previous sentence doesn’t make a whole lot of sense, but here’s my train of thought.

Once the inverter is installed, we’ll stow all of the loose gear, say our good byes to everyone we leave behind here, head over to Prickly Bay to fuel up, check out of customs and then leave for Trinidad about 5 pm. So the more things, I can get done today, the less I have to do tomorrow when Dale installs the inverter, stands up with arms in the air like a cowboy in a calf roping contest shouting time! and it’s a mad dash to secure the boat (after a month of sitting) for an open water transit.

I guess you can tell that another weather window has opened up. The only problem is that we have to wait to get the much awaited part until tomorrow, to leave. Today was the better of the two day window for wind speed but tomorrow is better for wind direction and lower wave heights. The next window is not expected until the end of the week leaving no room for error and a weekend arrival. (We try to always enter and leave a country during the week to avoid the overtime charges.)

Diane & Joe off Moon Goddess made it in late this afternoon. They found us up at the pool with Mike & Sara, Carol & Wayne, Buddy & Melissa, Brian & Lisa and Susan (their guest on Wasabe). Diane & Joe want to catch the window to Trinidad tomorrow, too. From what we can gather, there will be quite a few of us leaving. One boater said that it was going to be a parade all the way down; once you get in line, don’t slow down or you’ll get run over. In other words, “it’s a convoy!”

We caught up with Diane & Joe over dinner at Bananas and learned that they have reservations at the same marina as we do in Trinidad.

Now the only thing we need is that dang inverter!

Saturday, June 24, 2006


True Blue Bay, Grenada
11.59.955N
61.46.170W


Mike & Sara joined us on our daily walk to Budget Marine; today was definitely exercise rather than a needed trip. We stopped to say hi to Nicholas in the store, now out of habit rather than anything else.

There was supposed to be a truck bringing fresh fruits and veggies to the marina at 11:00 but by 12:00 when he hadn’t arrived, we figured it was 11:00 GMT (Grenada Maybe Time) so, we turned around and hiked back.

Again we stopped by Indigo Moon to give Buddy a hard time. He had a gallon of paint that he was going to thin down to paint the entire bottom of this boat.

Later, when we were all sitting around the pool, we saw him come trudging back to his room. It looked like he had been through a war. He had cuts and scrapes from a zinc that had jumped out and attacked him and more paint on him than on the boat.

We heard from Moon Goddess. They finally arrived in Grenada. They anticipate meeting up with us tomorrow.

Photo: Cocoa Nut.

Friday, June 23, 2006


True Blue Bay, Grenada
11.59.955N
61.46.170W


Dale is practically dancing a jig; the inverter left Puerto Rico for Grenada this morning. Once it gets out of the customs office, it should be here first thing on Monday morning.

We did our customary walk to Budget Marine, more out of exercise than anything, and told Nicholas the good news. Of course, he’s been following it just as anxiously as Dale has.

We walked by Indigo Moon in the yard and gave Buddy a hard time about all of the holes he’s punching in the keel of his catamaran. His boat was set up in a fashion where bilge water could spill into a void below it. So he drilled holes in the lowest section draining the water out and is filling the void with epoxy. Hopefully alleviating the problem of blisters which alerted him to the situation in the first place.

Mike & Sara had people on their boat completely disassembling their water maker motor; although they did find a frayed wire, they still came up with the same diagnosis; it needs a new motor.

By the end of the day, we were all sitting around the pool relaxing until we remembered that Friday was Mexican night at the resort restaurant. So we all jumped up, ran to change our clothes and met back up at the restaurant for Mexican food with a island twist. It’s not bad when it’s the only Mexican food in town.

Photo: Buddy & Meslissa off Indigo Moon.

Thursday, June 22, 2006


True Blue Bay, Grenada
11.59.955N
61.46.170W


Dale was delighted with the tracking number he was provided. He was able to see that the inverter left California this morning. Later in the afternoon, he saw where it had reached Memphis. By evening, it appeared to be in Puerto Rico. He seems to be comforted with what appears to be positive progress. I’m worried that if an inverter doesn’t appear as promised, he’ll snap and I’ll need a couple of men in white coats with a big net to control the situation.

Mike on Wayfinder seems to be on an even narrower ledge. The consensus is that he needs a new motor for his water maker. So now he’s waiting for parts. Of course, he’s been told that it’ll be here next week. Since he’s watched us for the past 3 weeks, you can hear the defeat in his voice. We have our fingers crossed for him.

Wednesday, June 21, 2006


True Blue Bay, Grenada
11.59.955N
61.46.170W


Buddy & Melissa are back in town. They had taken a quick trip home while their boat was on the hard.

Dale & I made our daily trek over to the Budget Marine. The manager wasn’t in when we got there, so we killed some time having lunch at De Big Fish, a little bar & grill next door where we met Brian & Lisa off Wasabe. They’ve been sailing for 6 years; starting off from southern California and crossing through the Panama Canal. Of course, we had to swap our California stories; Dale was born and raised there and that’s where we met.

We convinced them that it was a lot less rolly in True Blue than it was over in Prickly so they joined out little group later in the afternoon.

We said our farewells to Mike & Sara on Wayfinder and they pulled out shortly after I washed my knickers and hung them out to dry. When they went by, Dale & I stood and saluted telling them that we were giving them the 21 panty salute.

A couple of hours later, they radioed that they were returning. They had spent a considerable amount of money having their water maker repaired at the local marina. They got out a ways, turned it on, and by golly, it had the same problem. They are not happy. We welcomed them back with open arms and rum punches. They certainly needed to relax.

On a happier note, we got word today that our insurance doesn’t require us to be in Trinidad for hurricane season; Grenada is still OK. It’s good to know we have an option. A lot of people don’t and with the rumors of increased violence coming out of Venezuela, it’s forcing more and more people into Trinidad. In my humble opinion, setting the entire marine insurance business at risk for catastrophic damages should a hurricane ever strike Trinidad.

Tuesday, June 20, 2006


True Blue Bay, Grenada
11.59.955N
61.46.170W


Dale walked over to Budget Marine first thing this morning to confirm that the inverter had been ordered from this end. Now it is a question of waiting until tomorrow to confirm that it has been shipped. He swears that if he doesn’t get a tracking order immediately, we’re getting our money back and ordering the part through another company. I’m staying out of his way.

Sara & Mike radioed over inviting us to join them for lunch at Bananas. We ran into Wayne and Carol while there. A bunch of boats are catching the window on Wednesday night to Trinidad or Venezuela. Mike & Sara will be one of them. We’ll miss them but hopefully will catch up with them again someday on down the line.

Photo: Mike & Sara on Wayfinder

Monday, June 19, 2006


True Blue Bay, Grenada
11.59.955N
61.46.170W


You are not going to believe this! It happened again! Our inverter still has not been sent.

As you may recall, when we last left our most unhappy camper, he was told that since St. Martin did not have the inverters they said they had, one had to be ordered from the manufacturer. As the Grenada store is a branch of the St. Martin store, St. Martin still had to do the ordering. We started becoming concerned when we couldn’t get a tracking number for the part shipped and sure enough, there was no tracking number because no part had been shipped. The cost of the part had not met the minimum required to ship to this area. The Grenada store manager was just as frustrated as Dale was, saying that if St. Martin had simply told him this when they first encountered the problem, he would have ordered two.

This means another week here. The manufacturer ships on Wednesday, it takes 2 days to get here, another day to clear customs, which, of course, brings us to the weekend and everything stops until Monday. Only this time, we’re shut out of a very nice weather window we’ve been watching for the past couple of days in which to transit to Trinidad.

Dale’s fried! Instead of having 4-5 days of time toodling around Trinidad until our reservation date on the 1st, we are now are up against a 4-5 day crunch of hoping a weather window opens for us to make the 20 hour passage. It can happen but we might have to do it alone. We’ve been more inclined to travel in groups the closer we get to Venezuela, just to be on the safe side. Who knows, Rainbow Rider may catch up to us yet.

We finished the day by playing 15 rounds of Mexican Dominos with Carol & Wayne on Take Time. (They have a really big set of Dominos). It was fun and a great way to get Dale’s mind off the inverter. We finished about midnight.

Photo: Carol on Take Time; Wayne's underneath cleaning the bottom.

Sunday, June 18, 2006


True Blue Bay, Grenada
11.59.955N
61.46.170W


Happy Father’s Day to all of you Dads!

As mentioned before, nothing happens on Sunday, so all was quiet today, particularly with the on and off showers. Dale has been making steady progress through his Patrick O’Brian series of books, taking the opportunity to lay in the hammock and soak in all of the brownie points due a Dad on Father’s Day.

Jim & Freddie off Chez Freddie dropped by for a quick visit before heading into town to look for a restaurant to celebrate Father’s Day.

I tried my hand at making a pizza for dinner again. I broke out the bread maker to make the dough this time. Still not quite there. Too much bread in the crust. I told Dale that at the rate I’m going, I should have this down by the time we get back.

Saturday, June 17, 2006


True Blue Bay, Grenada
11.59.955N
61.46.170W


Today Dale & I rented a car to run our errands and invited Mike & Sara to join us as they had turned in their car last week. We checked at Budget Marine, still no inverter. We dropped by the pharmacy and tried to pick up some medicine but they were out of what we needed until Monday afternoon. We were able to do some grocery shopping and pick up fresh veggies. We stopped at a restaurant too far for us to walk to from the marina and enjoyed a tasty meal surrounded by beautiful flower gardens.

When we returned, I spent some time repackaging and vacuum sealing everything before heading over to Take Time. Wayne & Carol had invited us to return to their boat for the nickel tour. They have a 48’ Kadey-Krogen Whaleback trawler. Very nice. Wayne and Dale talked forever about their various improvements to our respective boats. Wayne is just as handy as Dale is and apparently grateful to have someone who speaks the same electrical language as he does. Carol and I talked recipes. The four of us joined Mike & Sara and Freddie & Jim at the pool later in the afternoon.

Wayne and I and a couple from Ireland took advantage of the slide at the pool. It’s the size where you can’t tell if it’s for children or for everyone. Since there were only adults at the pool we figured what the heck! We had a blast.

Friday, June 16, 2006


True Blue Bay, Grenada
11.59.955N
61.46.170W


I can’t say as we did a whole lot today. We dinghied over to Prickly Bay only to find out that our part was still not in. Not only was it still not in but they didn’t have a tracking number in which to tell us where it was in the process of being sent (not that we could have counted on it anyway).

We did have dinner with Sara & Mike (Wayfinder), Freddie & Jim (Chez Freddie), and Wayne & Carol on Take Time. Carol really outdid herself in preparing smoked pulled pork with homemade buns. All the rest of us brought cole slaw, baked beans, long grain rice, 3 bean salad and green salad. A regular down home barbeque.

We finished up the evening by playing Mexican Dominos. Of course, it was another version. Each time we play with new people, we use different rules. Then again, that’s half the fun!

Thursday, June 15, 2006


True Blue Bay, Grenada
11.59.955N
61.46.170W


Today was a beautiful day. It was also a holiday and everything was closed. So we read our respective books. I tried my hand at making calzones again (my last attempt with pizza dough was better).

Then we ended the day by visiting with Sara & Mike on Wayfinder. That is, after Dale fiddled with the dinghy engine again (guess there’s water in the gas tank that we’ll have to address.)

Sara and I both contributed two appetizers each to our visit and called it dinner. We decided that great minds think alike. She brought barbequed meatballs and brie with crackers and I brought barbequed smokies and Flutes au Fromage; a French bread/cheese stick I picked up in one of the French islands. The guys didn’t seem to mind the similar dishes and everything was gone by sundown.

Wednesday, June 14, 2006


True Blue Bay, Grenada
11.59.955N
61.46.170W


Although we still had the occasional rain cloud pass through today, we were able to retrieve the laundry we left over in Prickly Bay on Monday. That is, after Dale did a minor adjustment to the dinghy engine. It seems we picked up a bit of water in the engine. Once he cleaned the spark plugs and changed the reservoir of fuel, it fired right up. Thank heavens it conked out on us 20 feet from the Palace instead of out in the ocean as we were rounding the tip of one harbor into the next. That would have meant a lot of rowing; most likely for both of us. Plus some anxious moments.

As we approached the laundry hut, the wash woman had my bag ready as I walked up. She said that she remembered me because of the large amount that I had left. (Oops) She did a great job. Nothing lost; everything neatly cleaned and folded. Best yet.

When we got back, we touched base with Sara on Wayfinder (Mike had gone to the dentist). She loaned us 5 gallons of gasoline until we can rent the car on Friday. Otherwise Dale was going to have a long walk to the gas station in town.

Sara was telling us that they made reservations at Isla de Margarita since the mainland of Venezuela is rumored to be getting more and more violent. She told us that Margarita is supposed to be safer. “Just go into the marina; don’t anchor“ she told us. That doesn’t give me warm fuzzies either, no matter how inexpensive it is. It seems to me, the islands beyond Trinidad are becoming more difficult to justify going to. Dale says we need to weigh everything before making up our minds. We’ll see.

Tuesday, June 13, 2006

True Blue Bay, Grenada
11.59.955N
61.46.170W


It rained today; all day.

We didn’t go anywhere or do anything. I couldn’t even hang up the hammock.

All of the boats are doing fluky things in the water. We either had 30kt gusts of wind preceding the squalls or dead calm once they passed.

Dale jury rigged the power board so that he can divert power to what needs to be run by flipping a switch, instead of manually rewiring it each time he starts the genset. Pretty nifty. He just doesn’t like the idea of jury rigging it for any length of time.

We’d like to watch a movie tonight but the TV is acting up. When there’s a lot of moisture in the air, it refuses to play DVD’s and local television just doesn't cut it.

The marina restaurant has a pretty good band playing tonight so we’re sitting in the cockpit listening to the songs over the water. It’s become a game of name that tune.

Monday, June 12, 2006


True Blue Bay, Grenada
11.59.955N
61.46.170W


It was with high hopes that Dale left the boat this morning bound for the marine chandlery. Unfortunately, as is the norm more often than not, miscommunication ruled the day.

Apparently one of the two inverters located in St. Martin and ordered last Wednesday for us, didn’t exist. So the information that it had been ordered, that it had been shipped, and that it was sitting in customs waiting to clear was in error. Today a very apologetic manager told us he had been informed that St. Martin didn’t have any inverters at all and the package sitting in customs was not ours. So it was back to the drawing board.

This time the chandlery ordered the inverter from the dealer. The only problem is that it will be another week of cooling our jets waiting for the shipment as weather windows to Trinidad open and close.

Dale reminded me that we’ve been pretty lucky as compared with others who have had to repeatedly wait for parts to be shipped. I really don’t mind as I like it here. In fact, if the grocery shopping was more convenient, I’d stay here for quite a while without complaint. As it is, we have to rent a car every time we need to go to the grocery store (unless we want to lug the groceries back on the bus.)

Later, we dinghied our laundry around to the next bay to have done. The one here in the resort doesn’t work. Once there, we took the opportunity to confirm with the chandlery that the inverter had been ordered and then dropped by the local watering hole for a hamburger. Considering we haven’t had a cheeseburger in paradise in a while, it tasted pretty good in spite of the fact that it was more of a meatloaf burger. You just can’t get too picky in these parts.

When dark clouds appeared on the horizon, we made a made a mad dash back to the boat and almost made it.

Sunday, June 11, 2006


True Blue Bay, Grenada
11.59.955N
61.46.170W


Nothing happens on Sunday, so we climbed the steps to the pool again and actually swam in it. It was a pretty neat little pool. It has two dolphins depicted on the bottom made out of little 1” tiles. It creates a 3-D effect, particularly with the water over it. Really cool!! Sara and I just floated around while the guys read their respective books.

Saturday, June 10, 2006


True Blue Bay, Grenada
11.59.955N
61.46.170W


It started off rainy this morning but by afternoon it had cleared out. Since the inverter is held up in customs, we decided to check out the pool at the resort. Mike & Sara are at the marina, so they invited us to check it out.

Unfortunately, our timing was off. The staff had just cleaned it and had added chlorine. We had to wait at least an hour before going in. So, we rinsed ourselves in the pool shower, laid underneath the cabanas until we dried and then did it all over again. It was actually rather refreshing.

Photo: True Blue Bay Resort, Grenada

Wednesday, June 07, 2006



True Blue Bay, Grenada
11.59.955N
61.46.170W


Dale worked on the inverter for the better part of the day again. He started by taking the electrical diagram over to the local guru who gave him a few more ideas of what to check but then said that if those things didn’t work, we needed a new inverter. Those things didn’t work either, so he had to order a new one.

Dale found some luck when he went to the local Budget Marine and was able to locate two inverters at the St. Martin location. One was ordered and hopefully, it should be here by Friday. Once again, my budget is shot for the month.
True Blue Bay, Grenada
11.59.955N
61.46.170W


Today was our big tour day. Dale & I and Mike & Sara were met at the resort entrance by Kennedy Jawahir, a 3rd generation East Indian, who knows this island and (what appeared to be) most of its inhabitants, very well. His tour brochure proclaimed his “knowledge of the island’s social, political and geographical span” but neglected to mention that this was in addition to his vast knowledge of the island’s flora & fauna (and their Latin names). He also writes a column for the newspaper encouraging the locals to embrace their island’s assets.

We began our tour through St. George’s to the north of us and on the west side of the island. Kennedy pointed out a huge stadium being built in downtown St. George’s that the Chinese donated to the island. The Chinese even brought in all their own labor to build it! The only payment the Grenadians owed was not to fly the Taiwanese flay anywhere on their island. The Taiwanese donated something (I missed that part) and only wanted a vote on whaling rights in the United Nations (I think they actually made their donation before the Chinese made theirs). Kuwait built a sea wall along the south side of the island after the Americans assisted them in the Gulf War. (We noted further in the tour that the Kuwaiti’s need to build another sea wall along the north side too.) For a sleepy little island in the south Caribbean, Grenada garners a great deal of international courting.

We continued our tour to the north along the western shore stopping for views of various harbors or fruit trees along the way. Kennedy would point out cocoa trees, breadfruit trees, nutmeg trees, cinnamon trees, painted eucalyptus, and various crater lakes and waterfalls.

Then we stopped at the Dougaldston Spice Estate where the fruits and spices were displayed, discussed, smelled and of course, sold in neat little bundles.

Our next stop was the Gouyave Nutmeg Station where thousands of pounds of nutmeg nuts are brought in and the mace is separated from the nut. Then the nut is stored for aging, rinsed and sorted for oil content, then bagged moved to a different level and resorted for size, all of this is done by hand. This particular station is the last of what used to be 6 fully working sorting stations. The hurricane 2 years ago decimated 90% of the nutmeg trees and it takes 6-8 years to re-grow the trees to fruit bearing size. At that time you figure out which tree is male and which is female, the male doesn’t produce fruit.


After the nutmeg station, it was time for lunch. We stopped at a small café where several of the local dishes were prepared for us. We had fried fish, curried meat, peas and rice, plantains, salad and other vegetables I didn’t recognize. It was all wonderful.

After our nourishment, it was off to River Antoine Distillery. Now don’t misunderstand me, rum is my favorite toddy, but this rum reminded me of moonshine. Not that I would know too much about moonshine, or any of my relatives in Arkansas would know anything about moonshine, but the one and only time I ever tasted it, it left an indelible mark (or should I say evaporation) on my tongue that I will never forget. Walking into this distillery made my eyes water and brought back memories of the time everclear did pass my lips.

The cane press is still run by a waterwheel, the juices are still boiled by using wood stoves, the fermentation is still done in the open, transferred from vat to vat by hand scoop, and when it is declared rum, it is drained off into a bucket that is used to fill the bottles by hand. No aging in oak barrels for this operation; rum, straight out of the still. They had two strengths; straight (75%) (you cannot take this on a plane out of the county) and diluted with water (65%) (you can take this on a plane). Both could be sold to boaters. The one diluted with water? You guessed it, they filled it about a 1/3 of the way with straight rum and then poured water into it from another bucket. No fancy measurements, no bottled water, no fancy conveyor belts, this is rum done the old fashioned way. Don’t worry about germs, they wouldn’t have a chance in this brew; flies couldn’t even get close to the door. Dale and Mike took sips of the samples provided and decided that it was too volatile for boats as well.

Our next stop was at the solar powered chocolate factory. Finally, someone harnessed the island’s greatest resource for something other than selling umbrella drinks on the beach!


Now the history of this little enterprise had a rather inauspicious beginning. Apparently, ‘these two dudes’ (we all have heard stories about the “two dudes”) one a white dude from a well to do family was here attending the medical school; the other was a black dude whose brother was attending the same school. The black dude’s brother invites the white dude home where the two of them meet and decide to hike up into the mountains to celebrate life with a toke. Somehow, the chocolate enterprise rose from the smoke like a phoenix and took flight. The white dude’s parent’s offered the initial capital, the black dude’s family offered the property, medical school went out the window and now they have a thriving ecologically friendly business making award winning chocolate. All the power is solar, including the air conditioning, mixing machines, refrigerators, presses, lights, you name it.

We were thoroughly impressed with the set up. With the cost of the earth’s resources constantly on the rise, Dale and I have often talked about alternative energy sources and how to get the most out of our water supply. It’s the initial set up costs that are so prohibitive. Here was proof positive, it can be done with all of the creature comforts we have come to depend upon. (Yes, Virginia, you can be conservative and think ecologically!)

Our last stop was though the rain forest where we saw that the top trees forming the canopy still have not bounced back from the hurricane, though they are making a valiant effort.
Kennedy stopped to pick up a few bananas giving us a quick lesson on the many varieties available and giving us each one of the sweetest variety. We thought he was being very thoughtful but then learned that he was just starting to feed the animals along the way. A bit further, we pulled off the road near some trees overlooking the valley where he started whistling. Pretty soon we had 5 or 6 Mona monkeys scrambling for the proffered bananas. That was the highlight of a great trip.

We returned exhausted. In fact, so exhausted, we called Buddy & Melissa and asked them to join us at Bananas (a nearby restaurant) for dinner.

So if you’re ever in Grenada and want a tour of the island, call Kennedy tours! It was well worth the money.

Monday, June 05, 2006


True Blue Bay, Grenada
11.59.955N
61.46.170W


Dale noticed last evening that the generator isn’t charging the batteries the way it’s supposed to and spent the better part of today going through each connection with his multi-meter trying to find the problem. Apparently, it’s inverting properly it just isn’t charging the batteries.

Of course, my conscious kicked in screaming guilty at the top of its lungs since I was the last one to turn on the genset. (I get most of my exercise jumping to conclusions.) I was well into my testimony that I had waited for both meters to spring into life before I flipped the inverter switch, when he told me it didn’t have anything to do with flipping the switch. Then I meekly told him that since it was dark, I may have accidentally hit the reset switch before I hit the inverter switch. Nope! He didn’t think that had anything to do with it either but he would add that to his list of things to check. So I stayed out of his way and played on the computer . . . in the cockpit, . . . far away, . . . ready to dive overboard, . . . just in case.

We had been able to purchase a headset to plug into the laptop and phone home through something called Skype; the majority of cruisers down here use this to keep in touch. If you make a lot of long distance telephone calls, you might want to check into it. Essentially it’s voice over internet protocol for 1-2 cents/minute. The draw back is that you have to be able to connect into the internet to place or receive your calls. If you’ve been following this site for any length of time, you know that that has been the bane of this cruise.

In any event, I had fun for the day. Dale on the other hand, found no joy. He’ll be making a trip to the nearest electronics guru to discuss the situation.

Sunday, June 04, 2006


True Blue Bay, Grenada
11.59.955N
61.46.170W


There was a little drizzle off and on today forcing us to stay on the boat and essentially do nothing. We’d take turns reading, laying in the hammock, or reading and laying in the hammock, then finally playing cribbage. We miss our cribbage evenings with Fred & Geri, where the guys would challenge the girls. (By the way, Geri, I won 2 out of 3 games).

Photo: Supposedly of True Blue Bay Resort with storm clouds rolling in. Unfortunately, it's more of my camera getting wet.

Saturday, June 03, 2006


True Blue Bay, Grenada
11.59.955N
61.46.170W


Since Mike & Sara have been here for a couple of weeks “on the hard“, they had rented a car and invited us to tag along on their drive into St. George’s before they turned it back in. We passed by a couple of chandleries, which were already closed (most stores roll up the sidewalks about noon on Saturdays) but were able to pick up a few things at a couple of grocery stores who ventured to stay open until 5:00pm.

We got lucky by being in the store when they started stocking their fresh produce. Both Sara and I were desperate for lettuce and tomatoes. It was very much like prior commissary days when you had to shop when the barge came in or wait for another week.

On our way back to the marina, we visited the medical school (photo) that U.S. forces liberated when Cuba took a more avid interest in this island. It actually overlooks the harbor that we are in. I guess most students are home on summer break as it was pretty quiet. It was quite interesting to see the site of such international intrigue.

Friday, June 02, 2006


True Blue Bay, Grenada
11.59.955N
61.46.170W


There was a little bit of a roll during the night, so we put out a stern anchor as opposed to a swell bridle. The difference between the two is that the stern anchor pretty much holds you in place by sheer force whereas the swell bridle uses the wind to hold you into the swell. This little anchorage is fairly protected so there is only the slightest of breezes and not enough to hold us in place. Since we’re the only inhabited boat in here at the moment, throwing a stern anchor out isn’t a problem. If and when others arrive, they’ll either have to do the same or we’ll all have to be more cognizant of wind direction to make sure we don’t bump in the night.

Mike & Sara on Wayfinder moved around to this anchorage today and took a slip at the little marina. We visited with them for a while after they were settled in and made our plans for the island tour. Buddy & Melissa decided to pass on the tour since their boat is being hauled out for a few days and they’re heading back to the States for a quick visit during that time.

Thursday, June 01, 2006



True Blue Bay, Grenada
11.59.955N
61.46.170W


After breakfast this morning, we hoisted anchor and moved about 6 miles around the tip of Grenada to True Blue Bay. It’s a quiet little anchorage surrounded by beautiful homes along one side and the medical school along the other. We also are at one end of the airport although the only time large planes take off is early in the morning or late in the evening.

After we anchored in about 14’ of water, I set up the hammock and proceeded to settle in. My initial impression was how quiet the anchorage was but by early afternoon I realized the reason it was so quiet was because all of the charter boats that surround us are empty. We are literally the only cruiser in this harbor. We’ve got the place to ourselves!!

We had anticipated meeting up with Wayfinder and Indigo Moon after lunch but Wayfinder didn’t make it out of the yard until almost 4 pm. At that point they elected to stay where they were in the next harbor over, so we lowered the dinghy and went to visit them. Thankfully, Killian, one of their little dogs is doing better (they had left us abruptly in Tobago Cays when she became very ill. They made a bee line for the veterinary hospital here). They have 3 older dogs traveling with them which they both seem extremely attached to.

Next week is Indigo Moon’s turn in the yard. We plan to stick around here with them. As we’ve said before, we’re in no hurry to get to Trinidad as we’ll spend enough time there while we wait out the hurricane season. In any event, we’ll keep a sharp eye out for tropical storms heading in our direction; so far nothing. If one should appear, we are within a day’s journey from Trinidad and points south.

We had an enjoyable meal at the True Blue Yacht Club this evening; expensive but good food. According to Sara, the expense of the food has been what she’s noticed the most over the past week that they have been here.

We plan on touring the island with Wayfinder and Indigo Moon early next week as Monday is a holiday here.