Chaguaramas, Trinidad
10.40.822N
61.37.899W

Happy Birthday to my sister, Carolyn!

Our trip to Asa Wright Park this week was wonderful, especially since neither Dale nor I could be considered ‘real’ bird watchers.

Jesse James, our local entrepreneur/guardian angel picked us up along with 4 other couples. Jesse caters his business to the cruising community and has a huge network of family and friends that he can call upon to expand his business to fit the need. He’s the first one to call if you need anything or want to go somewhere. He’s also the first to offer help when he learns of a misfortune to befall you. He’s ferried people back and forth to hospitals and doctor appointments when illness or accidents happened and usually knows who to call if you need some specific item that can’t be found in the area. He has a wealth of knowledge and has quite possibly the most even keeled personality I have ever encountered.

We began our journey up through the rain forest with a stop at a corner vendor for “doubles,” aloo pie, and kitachorie, some of the local East Indian fast food. Doubles are two small pieces of fried bread with curried split peas between. Aloo pie is a type of potato pie and kitachorie is like a hush puppy made with split peas. Dale and I liked the doubles and aloo pie best with just a touch of hot sauce.

We wound our way up the mountains through the rainforest while Jesse quizzed those of us who had been on his previous tours regarding the names of the local flowers. There was, of course, Christophene, the Trinidad National Flower named after the first governor, which appears to be a brilliant red from a distance but upon closer inspection is a tiny yellow flower surrounded by red brackets. There were the various types of haliconia like the red and yellow lobster claws and the small orange flowers that look like tiny birds of paradise but there was also flowers called “sexy pinks” which are becoming more and more scarce. These look like upside down pink, white and green lobster claws. I thought they were beautiful. One of the first plants pointed out to us when we arrived was a rare 'psychopsis papilio' orchid.

The Asa Wright preserve itself is an old coffee, cocoa, citrus plantation of about 200 hundred acres. We were lucky enough to be given a room in the original house which was built in 1907 and had 20’ ceilings. The house itself wasn’t as grand as some others we have seen but none compared with the view the veranda of this one had to offer. The house is located at an elevation of 1200 feet with the veranda overlooking the Arima Valley. You could, and we did, spend hours there, both at dusk and dawn watching the birds come to feed in their gardens and feeders placed just below.

They offered tea at 4pm, cocktails at 6pm, dinner at 7pm and a nature walk at 8pm. During the afternoon, we toured some of the trails surrounding the mainhouse and found a waterfall nearby. We ended up skipping the tea but sampled their rum punch in celebration of our 26th wedding anniversary before being ringed in to dinner. The nature walk later was directed more toward the insects, including a giant roach and praying mantis, but we ended up stalking a couple of pigmy owls by the end of the evening.

The next morning we rose early in hopes of seeing a toucan. One appeared but was so far away, you needed binoculars to get a good look, otherwise we were thoroughly entertained by the hummingbirds, banana quits, honeycreepers, orioles, blue-gray tanagers and crested oropendolas (which looked like crows with bright yellow tail feathers.)

We were ringed in to breakfast and soon after were off on another nature hike. This time we tracked bearded bellbirds, chestnut woodpeckers and looked deep into caverns for the noisy oilbird. We never saw them but definitely heard them.

We were able to shower and spend another couple of hours on the veranda before Jesse returned to pick us up.

When we got back to our boat, we were met by Dennis and Alayne (Audry Page) with news that Roger & Elaine had an offer on DocNoMore and that Elaine and her son-in-law would be arriving late Saturday night to remove all of their personal belongings before leaving early on Monday morning; she wanted to be in, out and gone before anyone knew. Unfortunately, the cruising community is small and people already knew of her arrival before we even stepped onto our boat and turned on the computer to read the e-mail. Oh well.

We’re scheduled to attend the Festival of Light in celebration of Divali, the Hindu New Year, on Saturday so we’ve left our keys with Dennis in case Elaine gets here before we get back. It will be good to see her again but I wish it were under different circumstances. Elaine & Roger touched our lives by having shared adventures with us, traveling to places we’ve never been before, exploring meandering creeks though desert islands, hiking to the highest forts in the Caribbean, jumping off waterfalls into chilly ponds below, defending ourselves against mighty bulls blocking our paths, and discovering all of this together for the first time. Christopher Columbus has nothing on us.