Tuesday, February 16, 2021

 



St. Thomas, USVI
N 18.20.016
W 64.55.469
2021.02.02

Some folks having fun in
Charlotte Amalie Harbor 

Today was a nothing day as we never got off the boat. We started as we usually do with a dissection of all the weather information we can assimilate. Then we found our various nooks to curl up with a good book or watch the boats coming and going. We did hear from Gerry and Nicky in CuraƧao. They are snug in a harbor and barely aware of the 30 kt winds howling outside. They texted us from a restaurant where they teased us with the seafood meals they were eating and the drinks they were having on our behalf. Its on days like this, we miss them terribly.




St. Thomas, USVI
N 18.20.016
W 64.55.469
2021.02.03

A relatively empty
Charlotte Amalie Harbor 

Trying to listen to the SSB for weather today was frustrating to the point where Dale eventually turned if off and consulted his weather via the internet and satellite telephone. Both are looking good for a Thursday afternoon departure.

Once the sun was dumping enough amps in the can, he turned on the water maker for a couple of hours. Then he turned the fuel polisher on for another hour and then jumped in the water to scrub the waterline. Considering we had the bottom painted just a couple of months ago, we were surprised that he found as many barnacles as he did. He climbed back on board and asked if I wanted to defrost the freezer. Not that I couldn’t use the help but at this point, I really don’t want to add anything more to the freezer. I still have tomorrow morning if I change my mind.

We finished the day by reading in our respective books. I’m reading State of Fear and he’s finishing up reading another Carl Hiaasen book. He chuckles from time to time, so he must be enjoying it.



At Sea
N 18.29.01
W 65.21.12
2021.02.04

Dale was finally able to hear the SSB weather report and it still looked good for a Friday departure. However, after consulting the satellite weather, we are still going to depart this afternoon so that we can arrive in Mayaguana in the morning on Monday.

We secured the loose items before heading into town for a quick trip to the supermarket, picked up a couple of sandwiches from Subway for the road (so to speak) and ate chicken sandwiches at Wendy’s for lunch. After that it was back to the boat, so that I could put everything away and Dale could secure the dinghy. We still had 2 hours to kill, so Dale put on a Scop patch he had found and laid down to check for light leaks behind his eyes. I finished my book and uploaded some photos to the blog.

Sail Rock

We hoisted anchor at 2:53 and by 3:15 we were sailing in light air. I snapped a photo of Sail Rock and sent it to our kids asking if they remembered what it was. We used to ask them when they were younger what its name was every time we passed it when we were stationed down here in the early 90’s. Some remembered, some didn’t.

As predicted, the winds continued to abate and soon we were messing around with the Code Zero for light air. Even it kept collapsing in the 5 kts breezes, so we furled it in and turned on the iron genny. We had left our main up but centerlined just so that we looked nautical.

Dale had the 4-8pm watch when we saw some clouds on the horizon at dusk. We debated as to which direction they were going but as dark enveloped us, it was pretty hard to keep track. We decided that they must indicate the front that we had been waiting for passed. About 6pm things shifted dramatically. Our 5 kt winds started to pipe up and quickly at that. We had just made the decision furl away the jib and to put a reef in the main when we saw the first 30kt gust on our anemometer. About 45 minutes later, we put a second reef in when the 30kts were no longer gusts but a constant push from behind. We’ve always said that we were going to mark the halyard at the cleat as to where the 1st and 2nd reef points were going to be for when you can’t see the sail. Too bad it was just good intentions. Of course, by now it was pitch black (naturally). It’s still a good idea but we managed to reef the sail to about a 1/3 of its normal size when we were able to check. In any event, we still were trucking along at 5.5-6 kts. The boat seemed to be doing well, so we weren’t concerned. This went on for 2 hours; I was grateful that Dale had found a Scop patch and that he was feeling well throughout the ordeal. Then just as quickly as it had come upon us, it was gone and we were back to motoring in 5 kt winds.

Lastly, during the night, I spotted a blinking yellow light that seemed to line up with a light depicted on the chart. However, as the night progressed, the single light became 3 lights though they didn’t appear to be moving. Finally, the AIS indicated a boat in that location. It wasn’t moving and reflected that it was not under command but it was also in over 1000’ of water. When Dale came on watch, I pointed it out and told him what I had learned. We think it might have been an oil derrick although I wasn’t aware that Puerto Rico had derricks around them now. It was the only contact I had, so that’s why I’m telling you about it.



At Sea
N 19.31.94
W 67.03.79
2021.02.05


Can’t say much happened today. Dale’s walk about found another kamikaze flying fish and lots of ink marks but no octopus body, so that one must have slipped overboard already.

We hoisted the Code Zero for a while. When the winds went too light, we furled it back in and turned on the engines for a while. When the winds filled back in, we turned off the engines and sailed wing and wing for a good portion of the afternoon but by evening, we brought the jib in to the center and sailed with just the main for the remainder of the night. We never saw any ships at all today and considered ourselves lucky when we were able to identify two planes flying miles overhead. At least we assured ourselves that we weren’t all alone in the world.

One really cool observation were the stars. I think the middle of the ocean is probably the best place to see the stars anymore. Tonight was totally clear and the stars were amazing. I remember my dad pointing out the big and little dippers to me as a child on a farm. This evening it took some time to identify them as there were so many, you had to be careful.



At Sea
N 20.48.671
W 69.11.604
2021.02.06

Today’s walk about did not locate any flying fish right away but later when I was looking out the back, I found one in the dinghy. So, I’m calling it today’s fish. So far, we haven’t missed a day.

Wing & Wing & Wing!

We sailed the entire night and whole day; no engines! In fact, once the sun rose, we sailed wing and wing and wing (both the Code Zero and jib plus the main centerlined) until the sun set again. I’m sure if anyone saw us they must have wondered what in the world we were doing. It worked, so who cares?

Dale ran the water maker a couple of hours today and climbed up on the hard top to unkink our main sheet. He also created a type of preventer to keep the main boom from rocking back and forth with the waves, so he had something interesting to do.

We did see 3 ships today. All 3 were 5+ miles away so AIS barely picked them up. One’s info indicated that it was bound for Jacksonville. We assumed Jacksonville, Florida and toyed with the idea of trying to hitch a ride to the east coast.

When Dale checked the weather today, it appears to be holding and we’ll have smooth sailing until the middle of the week. We’ll try to get as far as we can, while we have the window. Other than that, we’re making steady progress with speeds up to 8 kts.



At Sea
N 22.04.707
W 71.35.577
2021.02.07


Another beautiful day with light winds and abating seas; unfortunately, that also means we had to turn on the engines about 4pm. It also might be the reason we didn’t have a fresh fish catch of the day although we did see squadrons of flying fish throughout the day. We made our waypoint to the northeast of the Turks and Caicos about 11pm and turned further west to head toward Mayaguana at the southern end of the Bahamas.



At Sea
N 22.46.244
W 73.31.076
2021.02.08 

Another beautiful day. Today’s weather indicated the window was lengthening a bit and as we had become accustomed to our sleep routine while underway, we decided to use the perfect wind and seas to continue on when we made our Mayaguana waypoint by noon. With just a tweak here and there we continued to sail wing and wing with the Code Zero and the jib while rounding slightly toward Samana. However, due to the decision to continue on, I was forced to cook while underway. Generally, I’ll pre-prepare meals so the only thing needed is to reheat them. This time, I was slicing and dicing and having to keep an eye on a knife that seemed to sprout legs and take off every time I laid it down, plus since I’ve removed my pot stabilizers from the stove, I was constantly having to chase my pot around the stove to keep it over the burner. I thought of Nicky having to do this for 22 days when they cross the Pacific. I do not envy her in this respect; I found it very challenging at best.




Another item today was that Dale had to perform underway repairs. During his walk about, he found on the deck a rather substantial ring used to keep screws, bolts, etc from backing out of where they belong.He picked it up, put it in his pocket and then tried to locate where it had fallen from. Most rings of this nature are on our life lines but this one was a heftier version thus, most likely, more important. Not finding anything right way, he slept on it; literally. Not the ring; the issue. After his rest period, he got up walked up to the jib, checked the end and sure enough, that’s where it belonged. Next I see him using the pair of pliers he had taken with him to hammer something. So I went below and grabbed a couple of hammers for him. Right about the time I came back up, he came back to the cockpit and selected the biggest one I had managed to find. I remembered the last time he and Gerry and tinkered something with the big hammer and hoped it wouldn’t result in the same outcome. He finally came back and announced that although he couldn’t get the pin through far enough to secure the ring through it, it was so wedged in place, it wasn’t going anywhere. He did caution me though, not to let the jib flail back and forth too much. 

By 7:30 in the evening, we passed Samana and headed to our next waypoint at Rum Cay.



At Sea in the Exuma Sound
N 23.54.383
W 76.16.572
2021.02.09

In the wee hours of this morning we passed a container ship named Cosco Fortune heading for the Panama Canal (at least that’s what it’s AIS identification said). We swapped sides with our sails, made a slight course change and passed Rum Cay about 7:30am but still sailing wing and wing. Not exactly sure why this always makes a difference but it allows us to pinch higher on one side versus the other while sailing wing and wing.


By 8am, Dale was back checking the jib making sure the pin hadn’t fallen out and decided to try to secure it again as it was looser now that it had wiggled thoughout the night. Out came the big hammer once again. This time, it worked. He was able to align the pin, push it through and secure the ring back into the hole of the pin where it lived.

After that, another beautiful day of sailing wing and wing over the Exuma Sound. Instead of taking our previous course of hugging the islands, the wind was more favorable to make a straight course across the Sound. It cut off a few miles and Dale was hoping that we could make our landfall of Cave Cay before nightfall.

If you’ve followed this blog long enough, you’ll remember that this is where the SHTF about Christmas time a year ago. To enter Cave Cay Cut, you have to negotiate a narrow, rocky edged, swift current channel with a sharp 90* turn at the end. Best done during daylight hours. Well . . . guess what? Not today. We ran out of daylight about a hour and a half before reaching the waypoint. To continue on to the next cut would have us entering an unknown channel in the wee hours of the morning. We decided that if nothing else, we knew this cut too well. We furled the sails and turned on the engines several miles out, they continued to run without issue and when the time came to enter, Dale took a position on the bow with a high powered spot light. I took my position at the helm with my eyes glued to the chartplotter. Tonight’s situation had us entering through an outgoing tide with the wind perpendicular to us. Nothing but fun! I kept our forward speed over ground between 3.5-4 kts although to do it, I had to keep our boat’s speed at 6+ kts due to the current. I followed the chart plotter’s magenta line showing the suggested course while Dale would direct me either left or right due to what he was seeing. Since you’re reading this, you know that we survived.

We rounded into the channel between the islands and motored over to where we had anchored previously. However, Fate was not done with us yet. Now that we’re back in the Bahamas, we needed to reset our depth pucker gauge. We were now anchoring in water that reflected 5-6’ on the chartplotter instead of the 20-30 feet we had become used to in the southern Caribbean. As I nosed us into where we had previously been, Dale tried to lower the anchor, only to have it jam. During much sailor speak, he directed me to hold us where we were, so that he could free the jam. It only took 10 minutes in the pitch black with a head lamp on but it seemed to be an eternity back at the helm. I’d hear things fall; sailor speak; chain shift in the anchor locker; sailor speak; attempt to run the windlass; sailor speak; but eventually, I heard him say “lets try this again”. When he let the chain out, it sounded like he let out half our allotment. Normally, I’m the one who wants lots of chain. This time I was concerned that we’d be hanging our stern out in the channel. There was no one around, so we decided to leave it.


When he came back to the cockpit, he showed me a piece of coral entwined with string that somehow wedged itself in one of the chain links. When we tried to run the chain through the gypsy, it jammed the gypsy. Dale had to disassemble the gypsy to dislodge the coral, put the gypsy back together again before trying to run the chain through it. As I’ve said many times, I wouldn’t be out here if I didn’t think he couldn’t fix just about everything on this boat. Which is good. Since while he was up there working in the dark, he saw that one of our running lights has decided to take the rest of the time off.

For the time being, once again, we have a firm grip on Mother Earth.



Staniel Cay, Exuma, Bahamas
N 24.10.889
W 76.27.63
2021.02.10

One of the first things we had to do today was reset our clocks. We’re not sure when we passed the time change but considering we didn’t want to disrupt our watch schedule, (because we each have to stand our allotted time on watch!!) we left it until today. So bright and early, as the sun was up, but we’re not real sure what time it was, we were underway. Dale commented as we left that we couldn’t have anchored more perfectly the night before had it been daylight. We’re also guessing that we had 120’ of chain out for 5’ of water as our freshly painted lengths seem to have disappeared.

We sailed, you guessed it, wing and wing up to Staniel Cay and weaved our way through the shallows and coral heads to the Staniel Cay Yacht Club. It had really grown since we last saw it in 2005. We were advised to stand off until the two small boats finished fueling and then motor in when they left. This we did. Until one of the small boats left and another took its place. We radioed in again, telling them that we were still standing off waiting but this time we positioned ourselves crosswise of the channel, so that boats only had room to go around us and it was quite obvious that we were waiting to refuel. Regardless, another large powerboat tried to nose its way in but Dale was on the bow, with hands on hips, when the other boater decided to circle around and get behind us. Smart decision.

Once, we were finally able to tie up and refuel we were pleasantly surprised that we only needed 40 gallons diesel and only 5 gallons water. (If you’re keeping track, that’s 60 gallons diesel since we left Grenada). Dale had been running our watermaker for a couple of hours here and there during quieter times sailing with solar power or if we were motoring during quiet seas. We were really happy with that.

After we were topped off, we pivoted out, made our way to the anchorage by Big Major island and anchored behind another Manta. I about lost it when Dale got on the radio to them and not only told them that we had just arrived in from St. Thomas but where we were from, what our address was in the States and to come on by after they were done with their PCR tests. On the surface you’re probably wondering why I’d be upset. I’m married to a gregarious, friendly sort of man who knows no stranger; this I know! However, we are in a CoVid transient status while traveling through the Bahamas: we can rest, refuel and repair but cannot go ashore; and I would say that would include not having people over to our boat and announcing this to the whole world. We are allowed this in exchange for not having to check in, have the visitor PCR test or subsequent 5 day quarantine. We are transiting the Bahamas as quickly as possible! Do not STOP and collect $200! UGH!!!

What was done was done. So I went back to my tasks of making more meals for the road. Chicken casserole, taco meat that could be microwaved and jambalaya for those chilly nights I have been warned are coming our way and Dale worked on fixing the errant running light by stripping the corroded wires back to good wire and reconnecting it.

Afternoon came and sure enough, Jennifer and Royce from S/V Cerca Trove dropped by for a visit. Before they got off their dinghy we warned them that we were in a transient status and had not had any PRC tests in the last 2 weeks. They laughed, said they didn’t care and climbed aboard. Well, alright then, welcome! We had what turned out to be a great visit. Jennifer would rival Dale for his outgoing personality. We compared CoVid stories; they won. They were really interested in the changes we had made to our boat and we promised to send photos if they needed them in the future. They also said that they knew of a couple who might be interested in purchasing a Manta. That’s wonderful ours is going up for sale as soon as we can clear our stuff off. We exchanged boat cards and hopefully we can make a connection with the people they knew when we get back home. The other couple live in Pensacola, so it shouldn’t be too much of a problem. I apologized to Dale for being so paranoid, it was a good visit; he admitted that as the words were coming out of his mouth, he had second thoughts about what he was saying.

Later that evening, Dale checked his electrical handiwork. No joy. The running light still isn’t working. He has a spare, so that’s a job for tomorrow as we plan on another island hop before we do an overnight transit across the bank. Thankfully the weather is holding but a front is pressing down from the States on Sunday, so we may get stuck behind either Gun or Cat Cay before jumping over the Gulf Stream. We’ll keep an eye on it.



Highborn Cay, Exumas, Bahamas
N 24.43.017
W 76.50.034
2021.02.11

We hoisted anchor this morning at 7:45 and headed north along the islands to Highborn Cay sailing once again, wing and wing or with the wind behind us when we weren’t. We were flying; seeing between 6.5-8.5 kts! We were fascinated with all of the boats and really big boats that are here in the Bahamas. Some of the charts’ “magenta lines” were like highways as dozens of boats headed south. There are a few of us heading north but it was incredible the numbers we were seeing. The anchorages are filled but with the depths of the water rarely over 15 feet, boats can anchor pretty much as far out of the anchorages as they want. Just keep well lit so that others can see you.

As we entered Highborn Cay anchorage, we found a spot far enough away from another Manta that Dale couldn’t see the name of it. We were anchored by 2:30pm and he set about putting together the new running light that he was going to replace the old one with. Unfortunately, due to where it’s located, we needed to empty out the forward lazarette so that he could crawl down inside to run new wires. Then we wrapped a folding chair around the outside of the seat in the bow where the new light would be mounted so that he could heat shrink the connection without the flame going out.

Next on his list of fun things do was changing the fuel filters on the two engines. As both filters were black, it was a good thing as we all know that as soon as its dark, entering into a new, narrow, harrowing area, they are bound to choke up and ruin a perfectly good day.



At Sea
N 24.56.025
W 77.35.112
2021.02.12


What a miserable night. Rocking and rolling with the wind blowing a hooley. We finally let out more chain to where we had out 125’ just to be on the safe side.

Dale tried to listen to Chris (weather guru) on the SSB but finally gave up and consulted his satellite weather info. We reviewed our charts and decided to go to the south of New Providence and cut across to the bank via vectors meant for the big boys. Although it would require another overnight passage to reach Gun/Cat Cay, this ended up being a great decision. We sailed wing and wing with the Code Zero and made 6-7 knots all day. What a beautiful day! When the wind finally died, we rolled in the Code Zero and turned on the engines at about where the NE Channel marker is. We continued on throughout the night making good time.



At Sea 
N 26.11.211
W 79.34.33
2021.02.13

Gun Cay Light House

We’re back in the Gulf Stream! Morning found us approaching Gun/Cat Cay and saying hi to another fellow Manta (S/V Hahalua) as they passed us heading south. We told them of the other Mantas in the Bahamas and wished them well on their journeys. We threaded our way through the cut between the two cays and made our way out onto the shelf before the Gulf Stream to turn into the wind and put up the sails. Unfortunately, this is when the Code Zero decided to tangle its sheets around the drum at the bottom. What a mess! First we turned up wind to try to detangle the lines, then we had to turn down wind to clear the second line, finally when they were both cleared, we turned back up wind to let out the main sail before returning downwind the direction we were headed. Anyone looking at us must have thought we were nuts! Then, we ended up motor sailing as it there was no wind to help push us along.



Ft. Pierce, FL
N 27.28.018
W 80.19.721
2021.02.14

We made it! In the wee hours of the morning our GPS lost its fix and it took a couple of reboots to finally get it to acquire its location again. At this point we’re paralleling Florida so all you have to do is turn left, pull in somewhere and ask directions but still, the whole idea is to know where you are in case of emergencies. We have several backups and paper charts but I thought that these latest bog entries have been pretty boring, so yes! For a minute or two—we were lost! 

Once we found ourselves again, we entered Ft. Pierce jetty a couple of hours later at about 4:30am and slowly made our way through the channel, past some boats I swear were swinging into the channel, dodged them before turning towards Harbortown Marina, our home away from home in years past. Unfortunately, all of the outside anchorages were full (at least they appeared to be in the dark), we tiptoed around everyone up to the bridge then about-faced and made our way back to the main channel before heading in the opposite direction under another bridge looking for a spot to drop the anchor until day break. We anchored about 5:30am in 8’ of water that didn’t appear to have any cables or entanglements across it. Once the sun came up, we called Harbortown, spoke to the security person and requested information on when the fuel dock would open. As luck would have it, by the time we made our way back to them, they would be opened. We pulled in and took 18 gallons. If you’ve been tallying our fuel consumption, we’ve used 78 gallons to travel from Grenada to Ft. Pierce. Amazing! We’ve been fortunate that the wind has been behind us most of the way. We were also fortunate in that they would allow us to stay on the fuel dock overnight.

After a couple of hot showers, we made our way to the restaurant where we had to belly up to the bar for lunch. I ended up sitting next to a man who was certain that he had spent some quality time with the bar tender previously but couldn’t remember her name. He provided some humor to our lunch. It was Valentine’s Day, so Dale made good on taking me out. After that it was back to the boat where we fell into bed for some much needed sleep. It was raining off and on throughout the remainder of the day, so there was no problem sleeping in what would normally would have been a very busy area. In fact, we can only think of 2 other boats that came in to fuel for the entire day and the second one also stayed to spend the night.

We finished the evening with a nasty thunderstorm that made its way through but we’re hoping the weather will clear up so that we can make it home quickly. We watched the weather on the news and it looks like another front passing through on Thursday night (4 nights from now), so we’d like to be tied up and safe before that passes by. It takes 3 days to transit via the Intercoast Waterway but only 2 if we go via the ocean route up the coast. We’ll have to wait and check the weather charts tomorrow morning; we can always stay another night.



At Sea, off Florida
N 28.10.14
W 80.19.41
2021.02.15

Where do I begin? Well, we checked the weather and made the decision to head out of Ft. Pierce first thing this morning. After fiddling around trying to get the GPS to acquire a signal again, we exited the fuel pier about 8am without any drama and made our way out of the InterCoastalWaterway to the channel leading to the ocean. We turned and raised our sails (keeping a good sized reef in the main sail) and with only a little hiccup when the jib retrieving line tangled. Once cleared, we turned back to our course and for the next 10 hours we had a delightful, non-eventful sail up the Florida coast until about 4pm when the wind died and we turned on the engines, furled in the jib but left the main sail deployed just to look nautical. Dale rigged a preventer to it to keep it from swaying from side to side as what little wind we had, was from behind us.

About 8pm we started seeing lightening coming off the coast to the North of us, the West of us and to the Southwest of us. As it was a good ways off, we just kept an eye on it and continued on. One cell passed in front of us and continued on its path to the Bahamas and another took its place in front of us. The one to the Southwest of us, grew to the point where it appeared to catch up to the one to the West of us but stayed pretty much on shore. Then all hell broke loose. Just before 11pm and change of watch to Dale, the wind started to pick up and shift to our left. Since the main was secured to the port side (left), I called to Dale and asked him to come up to take the preventer off. Generally, it takes him about 8 minutes to wake up, go to the bathroom, don his life jacket, and get ready. By the time he actually made it outside, the wind had clocked completely around to our bow, then minutes later completely to our right. The main was straining at its tether in 20 knot winds that were increasing steadily.

In order to take the strain off the preventer we turned into the wind and tried to bring the remainder of the main sail down. We had just about furled it back into the boom when the wind cranked up to well above 30 knots (Dale says he saw 40, I was too busy praying by this time, so I can’t confirm it) and right about then we heard a loud pop and we could no longer crank the main sail into the boom. As we had already brought the boom in as close to the centerline as we could without releasing the preventer, it didn’t slam as badly as a jibe but it did grab our attention. We figured that the reason we couldn’t finish bringing the main in was because if the sail doesn’t go in straight, sometimes it hangs up until you can raise it back up and bring it in square. It was pitch black and the only thing we could tell for sure was that the Manta insignia was the only thing still visible on the sail; in other words we had a slip of a sail still deployed.

In any event, we kept the Palace pointed into the wind until the cell had passed. Both of us were unnerved by the severity of the storm. We’ve been in nasty weather before but this was the first time we purposely turned into the wind and just stayed there until the weather had cleared. And then, it was gone. Back to nothing winds and calm seas and surprisingly, back in the direction we had just come. Once again, we did a 180 and returned to our original course.

This was not what had been predicted and we were discussing the fact that our weather guru rarely misjudges the severity of a storm often erring on the side of caution, when our next surprise had us running from side to side. Dale was the one facing the shore when he saw what appeared to be an explosion. Then we both watched as a rocket was launched from Cape Canaveral. In all of the years we’ve traversed this coast, we’ve never seen a launch from the water. To clarify a bit: there is an exclusion zone around Cape Canaveral that keeps boaters well off the coast and there is even a red lighted buoy that you are directed to go around to stay out of their way. This we had faithfully done. Even in the storm. Now, we watched as the rocket appeared to go over us. Then we felt the sound as it traveled above us. Just like on TV, we saw the 1st stage burn out, and the 2nd stage ignite. Amazing! Then it was gone. I was astounded that they would fire off a rocket with the lightening and storms I felt were everywhere. Apparently, there was a hole in the clouds and they shot right through it. We were so excited to be able to have seen this.

Then, all of the excitement was gone and the rest of the night returned to the normal transiting.



Monday, February 01, 2021

 

At Sea

N 12.34.126

W 62.03.742

2021.01.26 

We awoke at our normal times and ate a quick breakfast before securing the remaining items we had left for the last minute.  Dale hung a trash bag for me to put plastics in for the trip while I put our salon pillows in pillow cases for the transit. 

Gerry came over for a last goodbye and chit chatted until it was time for us to leave.  I think Nicky stayed back having a hard time saying goodbye as I certainly knew I was; either that or she was done with us already and moving on!  A quick hug and kiss goodbye before I started the engines at 9am and gave our neighbor resting over our anchor a wave to let him know we were moving.   By 9:15 our anchor was lifted and stowed and we moved cautiously out of the anchorage, waving goodbye to Gerry/Nicky and Chris/Helen who had dinghied over for the farewells.  We turned into the wind at the end of most of the anchored boats to hoist our main sail and then motored sailed out of the harbor, down the southside of Grenada and rounded north to hoist our jib.  By 9:30, Dale took over and we turned off the engine and sailed along the west side of Grenada.  Until the mountains blocked our wind and he had to turn the engines back on.  It took another couple of hours and 3 more starts and stops of the engine until we were finally clear of Grenada and really started sailing. 

It was pretty sporty for the first 4 hours but by 3pm things finally settled into something manageable and we continued on seeing speeds up to 8.2 kts but generally in the 7 knot range. 

Ouch!

By 4pm Dale started worrying that we were traveling too fast; we already had one reef in and he was considering putting a second one in as well.  I reminded him that it takes us 3.5-4 days to get to St. Thomas and that our weather report had suggested we might be motor sailing the last day due to light winds.  As the Palace seemed to be doing well, we decided to keep our speed up so that we could make adjustments at the end of the passage if needed.  If the winds die too soon, we could get caught in the low pressure system that we expect in on Friday night. 

Twice during our departure, we noted planes flying low as if to see who we were but nothing else was noted; except some balloons bobbing in the water.  We made sure not to go anywhere close to them.  Hopefully they were just fishing markers and nothing sinister. 

My current situation is that I’ve done something to my hand.  The first that I noticed it was when it started itching.  I don’t remember smacking it on anything but when the boat is rocking and rolling there’s a lot of bumping into things and not noticing right away.  Obviously, it’s going to be a beute of a bruise! 

 

 

At Sea

N 14.44.125

W 63.03.376

2021.01.27

            Last evening as the sun set, the wind and waves built to an uncomfortable level.  At one point I heard something hit the hard top. At change of watch, I clipped into the jackline and ventured out onto the deck.  I climbed the step to the hardtop and swept the top with a flashlight but couldn’t see anything obvious.  It would have to wait until daybreak to do further investigation.  We still had one reef in and had a full moon so we could at least see when the larger than normal waves were coming towards us.  On one of my shifts during the night, I saw what appeared to be a wave higher than the lifelines getting ready to break.  However, we rose to meet it and it drifted below us without incident.  It definitely caught my attention.  During the day, the wind and waves seemed to be more manageable to my thinking, but Dale had developed sea sickness by this time and he disagreed that anything had settled down

Stow away

I was delighted to see a pod of little black dolphins playing on our bow during one of my shifts.  I tried to wake Dale but he was out to the world.  When it was his turn in the seat of power and glory, I pointed out a tanker that was slowly drifting from west to east, well in front of us.  He did find what we figure made all the racket last evening; we figure the flying fish hit the hardtop then bounced forward on to the deck.  They were the only items of interest for the remainder of the day.  

By afternoon the winds had calmed and we shook the reef out to keep our speed in the 6 kt range.  Again, we were thankful for the full moon during the night.  In case you’re wondering, the knot on my hand has begun to color the entire hand but at least the only part that is painful is the place where I must have hit it. 

 

 

At Sea

N 16.50.500

W 63.59.173

2021.01.28

            A little after midnight we put the reef back when the wind started creeping back into the 20 knot range.  Within a couple of hours, Dale saw 28 kts and I saw a 26.  Dale is still not feeling well but he’s been a trouper and stands each of his watches without fail.  On one of them, I let him sleep an extra half hour as he clearly needed the rest. 

Today’s excitement was when I “broke” the chart plotter.  We have a “hybrid” model that is not only touch screen but has buttons too.  I had noticed that after it was in the chart mode for a good length of time, the touch screen would no longer respond and you had to go to the buttons to try to clear it.  Thinking that I had accidently hit the screen lock function, I tried to unlock it by touching it again.  Nope, this time, I actually did lock it.  So back and forth between the buttons and the screen trying to free it up had no response.  The further out of the chart I went in an effort to clear it, the further out I managed to lock myself out of.  I dove down into the starboard hull to locate the instruction manual I had printed out to help resolve the problem (I’m old school; I want a hard copy for this very reason.  You lock yourself out of the software, you can’t access the digital version!!!)  Still no joy.  Now the buttons weren’t responding.  I finally woke Dale up and explained how I needed to be able to use the AIS on the touch screen but that I preferred using the dial to increase/decrease the chart size.  He was able to get us back one step in the process before everything froze.  I was terrified to turn the whole thing off for fear that it wouldn’t start again, but Dale shut it down without blinking an eye.  Giving it about 30 seconds we turned it back on and thankfully, it had rebooted itself to where we could access the chartplotter once again. 

Dale laid back down and, most likely, had just drifted off again, when it froze up again.  I may or may not have been messing with it.  This time when he got up he cautioned me: “Lorie I love the fact that you explore all of the functions on this but 2 days from our destination is not the time to figure out how things work.  Stop pushing the buttons!”  I promised.  We cleared it, and he returned to his rest period.  When it was his watch, the first thing out of his mouth was “you touched the buttons!”  This startled me!  I didn’t!  I didn’t touch the buttons; I may have touched the screen; once.  I felt like a 5 year old.  You told me not to touch the candy; I didn’t, I ate a cookie.  It was now my rest period.  As I closed my eyes, I saw him touch a button.   

By evening, the wind had fallen drastically, so we were back to motor sailing.  Dale was feeling well enough to try sleeping inside the salon area for a few hours.  By midnight, when he came back on watch, we could see the lights on St. Croix but not as many as you would expect for a well known vacation island. As we rounded the eastern edge and turned slightly toward St. Thomas, we gave what was supposed to be 3 lights marking the reef on that side a wide berth.  Basically because, the chart showed that there were supposed to be 3 lights but we never saw a one.  What we did see were two lights in the distance that ended up being lights on St. Johns.  We kept a watchful eye on them nonetheless. 

 

St. Thomas, USVI

N 18.20.016

W 64.55.469

2021.01.29

            The sun came up with us motoring more than sailing with flat calm seas making our way to St. Thomas.  We skirted Frenchman’s cap, dodged Buck Island, before finally turning into Charlotte Amalie Harbor.  It was mid morning but things appeared to be fairly quiet.  We radioed ahead and requested fuel from Yacht Haven Marina as they had a more direct passage to the fuel dock than Crown Bay.  Although we felt fairly rested, after 3.5 days, we might not be in the best form.  They granted us permission, then directed that we go to the inside of the fuel pier; so much for the direct route.  This meant tippy toeing around the giant (almost cruise ship sized) yachts berthed along the outside and weave our way to the inside amongst all of the yachts poking their very pointy bows into the channel to the fuel dock before pivoting into place.  We managed to do this without drama and our lines were caught by a young lady from Ft. Smith, Arkansas.  Of course, I had to tell her that I was from Pottsville and we found it humorous that 2 farm girls were out here on the high seas. 

            We only took 20 gallons of diesel but 60 gallons of water.  This surprised both Dale and I as we thought we were being extremely conservative in our water usage.  When we were refueled, we traced our way back out, into the anchorage, and anchoring pretty much back to where we had spent a couple of months last year.  We laid out 160’ of chain, backing down on it at the 120’, 140’ and 160’ marks just to make sure we weren’t going anywhere before turning off the engines, taking a couple of much needed showers and heading to bed.  Dale fell asleep right away; I just laid there resting. 

            We were back up by late afternoon and I tried to use my CBP Roam app to check us in.  It needed to be updated, which I did, but then the newer version indicated that due to CoVid, private travel was considered nonessential and to check with the local CBP office.  That would require putting the dink in the water and, to be quite frank, we’re just not up to that yet.  We’ll check in tomorrow.  We had a light dinner and then back to bed rather early for me.  This time, I had no problem falling asleep.  

 

 

St. Thomas, USVI

N 18.20.016

W 64.55.469

2021.01.30 

            I eased into the morning, listening to Dale checking the weather forecast on the single side band and then downloading the weather information from the satellite telephone.  Once all of the beeping and tones indicating that the download was complete had quieted, I joined him in the salon to see how long we’d be sitting here.  When we left Grenada, we were hoping to catch a window due in on Monday.  Now that we’re here, its not looking good that we’ll get out of here before Friday. 

            Since we’re going to be here awhile, Dale detangled the dinghy from the spiderweb he concocts for our transits and lowered it to make a hasty trip to the phone store for the new SIM card we’ll need to connect to the internet.  On his return, he tells me that it was one of the easiest phone transactions that he had done to date.  That is until he went to use it.  Yes, he can use his telephone to connect to the internet but he cannot use his computer to connect to the internet via the hotspot on his telephone as he had intended and professes that he explained to the customer service rep when he made the purchase.  After more than an hour on the phone to the help line, he ends up buying more (and apparently different) data, so now we can use the very expensive SIM card for a week or so.  

            Our next task; checking us in.  We head into the dinghy dock at Yacht Haven Marina and go to the CBP office we went to when we checked out of St. Thomas last year, only to find that the doors are locked.  Being a Saturday, we check with the office next door to see if they know their neighbor’s operating hours, to learn that they only see people by appointment these days and only those who are registered with Yacht Haven Marina.  Since we’re just grotty yachties in the anchorage, we need to go to the commercial seaport at the opposite end of the harbor about 3 miles away.  Got it. 

Since we’re here, lets get some grocery shopping done!  We really didn’t use that much on the trip but since we can’t let a possible trip to the grocery store go to waste, we fill our cart with as much Fresca and Black Cherry Rum as we can carry.  I think we did throw a couple of cans of soup in the cart as well but as we now have all of the essentials, we can head back.  Dale commented a couple of times that it was amazing how our perspectives have changed over the course of the trip.  We had become accustomed to the Grenadian grocery stores, so now the St. Thomas grocery store looks abundant in available selections. 

The front we had been anticipating finally started making its way through and it began the rain, wind and rocking waves only those who’ve spent time in Prickly Bay can appreciate.  We spend most of the remainder of the day, reading and trying to stay dry.  There may have been a covert trip to the Tap and Still for quick hamburger but I’m not telling.  I’ll only say that its amazing how good a burger tastes when you haven’t truly had really great one in 8 months. 

 

 

St. Thomas, USVI

N 18.20.016

W 64.55.469

2021.01.31

            Today is still very windy and rainy but Dale managed to replace the gaskets on the emergency rudder access panels (leaking water into the bilge) and clean the rust stains we develop during a transit on the bow, stern and basically anywhere there is stainless coming into contact with salt water.  He managed to clean the port side during one lull, the starboard side during another lull and finally putting the dink in the water to get under the trampoline before being forced back onto the boat by rain.  Not quite complete but almost.  

            We finished the day with Tennessee caviar.  Neither Dale nor I know why he loves this particular dip so much but considering its not difficult to make, definitely one I’d call a boat recipe, and one he’s willing to eat as a meal—you got it!

 

 

St. Thomas, USVI

N 18.20.016

W 64.55.469

2021.02.01

            Dale kept with his normal routine of listening to the SSB weather before downloading the satellite weather information.  SSB information indicated that no useful window was going to open for transit prior to Friday.  Satellite information showed a glimmer of hope for Thursday but that a second wave was coming in quicker than the SSB weather had indicted.  We could be here for a while.  We’ll just have to keep watching. 

A very quiet Charlotte Amalie.

Check in: part II.  This morning we began with a telephone call to the CBP to set up an appointment for check in.  The man answering the phone was very patient asking pertinent questions but basically telling me I had the wrong number.  He was CBP at the airport, I needed CBP at the seaport.  He graciously provided the telephone number for the right port which I promptly misdialed twice with my fat fingers, still swollen but useable.    When I finally got through to the right number, at the right facility, the gentlemen answering the phone there asked where I was located and why I wasn’t using the CBP Roam app.  I explained what I had gone through previously and he assured me that if I tried again, it might work.  Well, it did.  I filed my application, they called me back for the follow-up interview, he passed me to the Agriculture officer who cautioned me not to throw our wet trash away on shore without properly bagging and stashing it in an approved disposal unit and that was the end of it.  We’re checked in. 

Monday, January 25, 2021

 Grenada

Prickly Bay Anchorage

11.59.985 N

61.45.818 W

 

Looking out of the new
Prickly Bay Marina Bar & Restaurant

2021.01.15      Dale started the day with changing the oil and impeller on the starboard side engine before we called Joel, our taxi driver, and made a trip into town to the Ace Hardware store so that he could pick up the new starter battery he needed.  They didn’t carry the AGMs that he normally prefers but both he and Gerry felt that the one he chose will work for the task assigned.  I took the opportunity to pick up some cleaning supplies and Nicky looked for some ramakins.  Unfortunately, she was only able to find some small bowls for the job. 

                        Of course, since we were out and about, a quick trip to the Container Park was in order for a tasty lunch of Thai salads. 

                        We were back and forth with Port Louis Marina again.  The 4 parts (2 surge protectors and 2 meters) are supposedly on the island but they aren’t available for pick up when they send their person over for them.  We text Aaron, the electrician, to let him know, it will be Monday but we will call to confirm when the parts are in hand.  We tentatively set a date for Tuesday or Wednesday for installation. 

 

2021.01.16      Not much happening today.  Dale was finally able to actually speak with Aaron, the electrician that Port Louis hired to install the surge protectors and gauges.  He requested photos of the electrical panel which we took and then I spent the next 3 hours trying to upload and send over a very persnickety internet.   Dale finished up his oil and impeller changes by crawling into the “hole” for the genset.  Naturally, he dropped a nut for one of the bolts in a spot that he couldn’t get his hand into.  So it was back and forth a couple of times to get the tool for that specific job before he could finish up his tasks for the day by emptying all of our jerry cans of diesel into the fuel tank.  Then he ran the fuel polisher for an hour.  The new battery seems to have made an improvement on the battery performance overall.  He says that the solar input is much more effective now and all of the batteries fill up quicker. 

 

2021.01.17      Sunday!  Brunch at The Brewery.  Our standard trip to the Brewery for brunch, had live entertainment today.  A very talented guitar player/singer was performing for tips and drinks.  A really big guy who’s drink of choice appeared to be mimosas from a very delicate glass.  We enjoyed his music and listened long after we had finished our meals.  Our conversation was mostly concerning the upcoming week as it appears that our parts will be installed mid week as hoped.  Dale is a little apprehensive after the electrician hired by Port Louis Marina wanted to know if he was going to have to fabricate something to make everything fit.  After that, conversation gravitated to when our visas expired; Gerry said that since we paid until the end of the month, he was inclined to use them up before leaving.  My drivers’ license expires next Friday, which would be our normal grocery shopping day so we kicked around whether it would be better to hire a taxi instead of renting a car for the day.  I think we settled on the idea that it would be cheaper to take a taxi.  It’s a week away; things could change. 

                        I heard from my sister in law in Oregon.  Things sound like they are going from bad to worse.  She was saying that they have been warned of impending news, phone and internet blackouts for Inauguration Day.  I think that would just make everyone staying at home watching things unfold on TV be more curious and take a drive in to see what was going on if they couldn’t watch in the comfort and security of their own homes; but that’s just me. 

 

2021.01.18      We start our day with a text to Charlotte at Port Louis Marina about where our parts are.  By noon, we’re told that the surge protectors are still on the ship and are slow to be cleared.  One of the 2 meters has arrived at Budget Marine but one is missing.  An APB is put out for its location.   We advise Aaron, the electrician that we still don’t have the parts in hand.  We order Indian take out to be delivered to the dinghy dock. 

 

2021.01.19      Happy Birthday Kyle!

                        This morning’s text flurry only confirmed that our parts are still not in hand.  The surge protectors are still on the ship and the latest information on the missing meter, is that it was sent to the wrong store; when that store didn’t recognize the invoice, they returned it to the manufacturer.  Let’s just say that Dale is beside himself and leave it at that. 

                        We make a run to the butcher’s for the beef ribs Nicky told me about, sliced ham and baguettes.  I freeze most of the ham for our trip. 

                        Our afternoon series of texts informs us that the 2 surge protectors have been released from Customs and that they and the 1 meter that Budget does have in hand will be delivered to us by evening.  A quick call to the electrician informs us that he is booked up for tomorrow but that a Thursday install is possible.  Dale ends the day by meeting the Port Louis man and finally has 3 of the 4 parts sent to Grenada in hand; don’t forget there is still 1 meter back ordered and 1 meter missing in action.  When he gets back and opens the boxes, the 2 surge protectors are about 3 times the size of the original ones.  It doesn’t matter, at this point, they are being installed. 

 

2021.01.20      Today Port Louis is trying to find out how long it would take for the remaining meter to be returned to Grenada.

                        I spent most of the day preparing and cooking tonight’s dinner of ribs for everyone (Nicky brought a banana, toffee cream pie).  The internet went down last night and still hasn’t been restored but being busy most of the day, I didn’t suffer from as much frustration as you might think; I spend most of my time just trying to stay connected in any event.  

 

2021.01.21      Dale dinghies in and picks up Aaron, the electrician, and returns for the big install.  I make myself invisible and listen from my bunk.  They mutually decide that since the back of the electrical panel needs to be partially disassembled in order to access the meters, it would be best to wait until all of the meters are in hand before tackling that job; particularly when Aaron finds wires disconnected from various places that the original electrician (Simon Clay) left for whatever reason.  That leaves the installation of the 2 surge protectors.  Truly, Aaron makes short work of replacing the 1st surge protector but due to the new size, the 2nd surge protector is relocated to the floor of the electrical panel and they return to the discussion of why there are a couple of dangling wires the original electrician left disconnected.  It will require the disassembly of all of the wires to track down where they come from and where they are supposed to go.  I remind them from afar that Gerry was present during the original investigation of the electrical panel and that he might recall why the wires were left dangling.  A quick call to him now has 3 gentlemen all gazing into the abyss of various colored wires.  Being as it was over 3 months previous when all of this happened, little is recalled as to why those particular wires are still without a home.  Consensus is that this too will be left until all of the meters can be installed when most of the wires will have to be moved to access the area and the loose wires can be tracked down at that time as well. 

  
                     
Since it appears things are winding down, I come up into the salon a take a seat out of the way but close enough to see what they are all talking about.  Pieces and parts are being put away, the tools are being sorted as to what belongs to whom, and I can now see the placement of the 2 ginormous surge protectors.  I question whether they checked to make sure the door would close and am quickly assured that yes, of course, they checked (silly girl).  I see the back cover for the panel has indeed been brought back into the salon and let it slide but the more I look at it, the more I’m compelled to ask again if they’re absolutely sure.  Yep, not a problem.  Then they replaced the plexiglass cover and closed the door.  Let’s just say I had a smile on my face for the rest of the day when I heard Dale say “I hate it when she’s right!” 

 

2021.01.22      Friday, our last shopping day before the next big move.  We start off refueling our diesel jerry cans before going into Port Louis Marina to discuss our options as we now know that the AWOL part will not be arriving prior to the expiration of our current visas.  We agree that our best option is to have the cost of the missing parts, plus a sum for the installation of those parts, plus the agreed on sum for the A/C reimbursements, will be given to us as a credit on our credit card.  Neither of us is happy.  To date, we have constantly been disappointed in the promises of when things will happen and the actual delivery of said promises.  I understand the predicament Charlotte is in and I truly believe that she is working on the issue but from our stand point, every day we have new delays.  Today’s explanation is that she is working with underwriters out of England and the current delay is due to the time differences.  Dale just flat out tells her that we don’t trust her.  Very diplomatic!  She is hoping to have the money to us by the end of the day.  We don’t, of course, but we’ve come to expect that. 

                        We have lunch at the Container Park again before heading off to the local IGA grocery store and mall.  I really don’t have very much on our shopping list as our first hop will only take about 3.5-4 days, so if needed, we’ll stock up when we get there.    I run by the souvenir shop one last time to pick up a few more T-shirts before catching up with everyone else. 


                       
Both crews of Opal and Gypsy Palace end our day with a dinghy ride into the Prickly Bay Marina restaurant and bar which is actually quite nice.  They have been working on it the entire time we’ve been here and finally opened it with a limited pizza menu.  The pizzas were a bit on the small side but the drinks were strong so (in a way) it evened out in the long run.  I really enjoyed our evening.  We ran into Chris and Helen and even saw Charlotte and her family checking out the competition.  I thought it best to keep business during business hours and didn’t bother asking what had happened to our reimbursement. 

 

2021.01.23      Another quiet day.  I make up lost time on the computer by trying to access any news I can get but then am distraught over what I do find.  Rewriting history and “deprogramming” people and their children because they disagree with you, remind me of the book 1984.  A most frightening book.  Whatever happened to live and let live?

                        Gerry and Dale empty out our forward lazarette and hoist our Code Zero back into place on the deck, check to make sure the lower level is still free of water and transfer our hooka to Gerry’s boat.  Then they review and refresh how to down load our email and weather information through the sat phone.  They discover that when we renewed our sat phone last, somehow the weather information wasn’t renewed at the same time.  Dale will call on Monday to clear things up. 



2021.01.24      Sunday!  Our last Brewery Brunch.  Gerry, Nicky, Chris, Helen, Dale and I meet for our Sunday brunch, veggie shopping and today, another live music day.  This time it was a steel band group that really had the volume cranked up.  They were quite good but I noticed that we were all leaning in to hear what the others had to say in spite of the CoVid concerns.  I’m certain that nothing was transmitted but I found it interesting that I noticed it at all. 

                        I had hoped to have one of their pulled pork sandwiches that Dale thought was so good, but they were out, so I settled for my standard breakfast sandwich.  I have decided that they have the best fries on the island.  Unfortunately, I didn’t discover them until the last couple of Sundays. 

 

2021.01.25      Today is a flurry of activity.  Dale and Gerry hail Joel and make their trek over to Port Louis to check us all out with Customs and Immigration.  A quick stop at Charlotte’s office to learn that she’s “still working” on getting us our reimbursements and another at the Container Park to pick up a couple roti’s and gyro’s to go.  We plan on ordering Indian food to be picked up at the dinghy dock and eaten on our boat for our last night together before the next big leg; I have a special dessert that I’ve been carting around since we left the States that I think will be a big hit. 

                        Dale tops off our water tanks, secures our jerry cans, runs our jacklines, takes down the shade cloths and gets ready to secure the dinghy for a long haul.  I’ll secure the galley once all of our dishes are done for the evening and all of our computers, books, etc., last thing before we hoist anchor.  Hopefully the catamaran that came in this afternoon and anchored either over or very close to our anchor doesn’t mind an early morning wake up call tomorrow.  We’ll give them a heads up tonight that we like to leave early. 

                        Once again, we’re off on an adventure.