Leinster Bay,
St. John
18.21.909N
64.43.429W

We made one more run into Charlotte Amalie this morning to post a letter. Gerry took the opportunity to finally buy Nicky a necklace. However, as we understand it, neither the one he wanted , nor the earrings he considered as a second choice were available. They both had been sold the day before.

We headed back to the boats, hoisted our anchors, raised our mainsails and motorsailed out of the harbor and into the bay. Once we made it out past the red buoy that marks Packet Rock, the mid-way point along the south side of St. Thomas, we were were able to bear off the wind and finally unfurl our jib. We sailed the rest of the way, including Current Cut, although we did turn on the engine, just in case. We continued across Pillsbury Sound and were doing quite well along the Windward Passage until we lost our wind near Johnson’s Reef. We figured we’d had our fun for the day, so we furled in our sails, turned on the iron genny and motored the rest of the way to Leinster Bay where we picked up the last mooring.

Orpailleur was having their fun further out in the sound and since we had taken the last mooring, they had to drop their anchor and wait their turn behind another boat for the moorings to become available when the day boats dropped them.

We dinghied around to pay our fees to the National Park system and then returned for a little snorkeling around the boat. Because it was supposed to be a quick dip, I didn’t take my camera. Of course we happened upon a hawksbill turtle munching away on some coral (I didn’t know they ate coral) and a school of blue tang, parrot fish and a couple of angel fish.

As I have relayed on many occasions, fresh air and sunshine will kill you , or at least make you tired, so we called it an early night after dinner.

Charlotte Amalie,
St. Thomas
18.20.270N
64.55.61W

Once again Gerry began his day determined to buy Nicky a birthday/Valentine’s Day bobble and dropped by this morning to commiserate with Dale for a few minutes. A short time later, Tom & Doris (Exit Strategy) dropped by for a visit, so our morning was filled with visits from friends.

I dug out my paperwork on the new camera and found that it is actually easier to download the pictures from it than it is from our regular camera for the blog posts. Unfortunately, I didn’t have any good underwater pictures and once I figured out the workings, it was relatively simple to complete my posts.

Early afternoon, we made our way back into town to kill time until Gerry & Nicky’s friends Mark & Rose arrived. Once they landed, they were quickly ushered back to Orpailleur to their V-berth before joining us in town for dinner at the Mercury Café. Although a bit pricey, the food was delicious and certainly not the typical American menu that the Green House is known for.

I found Mark & Rose very friendly. Mark was described as being quiet but at a table with 5 gregarious people, I thought he held his own fairly well. Rose was sandwiched between Nicky and I, so she had no choice in joining the conversation with both of us bombarding her with questions. Since they have no sailing experience at all, I’m certain they didn’t realize that we were all teasing them unmercifully. Although, if the weather gets rough . . . .

We called it an early evening since Mark & Rose traveled the better part of the last 24 hours. We plan on meeting up again in the morning and depending upon how they tolerate the night on the boat, will take off for the rest of the Virgin Islands mid-day tomorrow.

Charlotte Amalie,
St. Thomas
18.20.270N
64.55.61W

Why is it that we have the hardest time with internet connections? Yesterday we had purchased some internet time but last night when we tried to connect, the signal kept dropping. We added our external antenna to boost the power, then all of a sudden, we couldn’t make the connection at all. We found out today that the internet provider takes an initial signature of the computer when you sign on. Any changes to the computer after that, ie, adding the antenna, changes the signature and therefore the provider thinks that you’re a different computer trying to use the access code. So now I have to sit in the cockpit to access the internet and keep playing with dropped signals. At least I can down load our e-mails rather quickly.

The rest of the day, we showed Gerry & Nicky around the area as cruisers instead of the guests they had been when they were last here. We walked over to the new Harbortown Marina looking for some logo polo shirts and a jib halyard for Orpailleur but they still aren’t completely up and running yet, at least not for those items. We walked up to the K-Mart for some items needed for the incoming guests. We picked up some fresh tea at the grocery and pointed out where the laundry was located. Then we headed back to town into jewelry central and walked up and down all of the alleyways looking at everything. Nicky and I had a blast just window shopping. Dale and Gerry were being very indulgent. Occasionally we would see a beer in their hands or some other frosty drink but they just followed us around and didn’t complain at all.

At one point, Nicky and I were talking with a woman about conch pearls. She had two and brought them out to show them to us. She told us what to look for and that the Japanese had purchased most of the conch pearls in the Caribbean area which had forced the prices sky high. Then she also showed us the most beautiful 3 carat yellow diamond that I have ever seen. Gerry walked in about the time she said that it would sell for $20,000 a carat. Gerry simply shook his head and left. The woman folded the diamond back into the paper from which it had come, placed it back into a box, closed the box and turned away from us. Nicky and I got the distinct impression that we had been dismissed. Well! We’ll just take our money and go elsewhere! Which we did.

Nicky finally found a slide that she liked to go onto a necklace that she already has. The only question was, would it fit. We’ll head back tomorrow to find out. I know I’m being petty, but I’d love for Nicky to put that necklace on, walk by the woman who looked down her nose at us, just to see the expression on her face. Kind of like the scene in the movie Pretty Woman, when she walks into the store and says: “Remember me. . . . Big mistake, BIG mistake.”

Charlotte Amalie,
St. Thomas
18.20.270N
64.55.61W

Normally, I start my post with a daily entry. However, last night after we went to bed we had a bit of excitement; other than what you normally find exciting in bed.

About 10:30pm a panga (a long, open boat, normally used for fishing) came into the harbor and zinged past us shining flashlights at our boat. Of course, this brought us both topside in a heart beat. Then it crossed the entire width of the harbor to the other side, again traveling much too fast in a darkened moonless anchorage shining flashlights at all of the boats as they went by. Jerry, on Summer Breeze was the farthest out and shouted his displeasure at their stupidity.

As learned in Trini, I grabbed our floodlight and lit them up as they came back in our direction again. There were at least 5 men in the boat speaking Spanish obviously looking for another boat. They came back across the harbor and eventually took the last mooring, right inside of us, then dragged a stern anchor to shore. Five men climbed out and started walking along the beach eventually making their way out past the reefs to the outermost beach that normally no one goes to.

Dale commented that it was going to be a long night, so I went below and came back up with a couple of blankets, binoculars, and nightscope but I couldn’t find the airhorn. Dale had already retrieved it. The long and short of it was: a boat full of men were certainly acting suspiciously, if only being stupid. However, for all of the noise and flash lights they had blazing, they certainly weren’t afraid of being seen. A couple of Homeland Security boats had been lurking in the anchorage earlier in the day, so it made us wonder what we had stumbled into. Dale felt that with me lighting them up, I had made us target. What I didn’t realize until this morning was, he had also grabbed our flare gun. So he was feeling pretty serious about the whole thing too.

In any event, we gave up our surveillance a couple of hours later when they were obviously having a hard time finding whatever they were looking for; clearly they weren‘t interested in us. In the wee hours of the morning, they left much more silently than they had arrived.

This morning, as Gerry would say: “at a sparrow’s fart” we got underway for St. Thomas. The seas were certainly more boisterous than we had anticipated and we slowed our progress to 4 kts to keep from pounding into the confused seas. Some were in the 6-8’ range with 18kt winds on the nose, of course. We entered into the lee of St. Thomas and once protected, picked up our speed until we entered into Gregory Channel. We tippy toed through the narrow and shallow Haulover Cut, then rounded into Charlotte Amalie Harbor with Gerry & Nicky right behind us. We anchored in 17’ of water and let out 100’ of chain; a nor’easter is due by the end of the week, so we wanted our hook well dug in by then. Dale completed this task by losing his hat overboard and had to dive into the less than sanitary water to retrieve it. He seems to be having a hard time keeping his attire on him these days.

After a couple of hot showers later, we lowered the dink and started into town, stopping only to say hello to Tom & Doris on Exit Strategy, whom we last saw at the Pitons. With Gerry & Nicky in tow, we made our way to the restaurant that made Roti’s, we had been told about in January. It was a tiny establishment with only 3 tables but they served quite possibly the best Roti’s we’ve ever eaten. Roti’s, by the way, are an Indian fast food. Curried chicken, beef, goat, or shrimp with potatoes in their own type of tortilla wrap. Definitely a lunch to clear your sinuses. Delicious!

With full tummies, we waddled into Liberty Jewelers for our Valentine’s Day presents. I found a pair of green earrings but Nicky didn’t see anything that grabbed her eye. The type of earrings that she had seen last year were nowhere to be found this year. With so many beautiful pieces, she felt overwhelmed. I certainly agreed with her assessment but I can usually force myself to focus in on something I like.

We finished our day by finding an internet store to buy some connection time, walking through the straw market, then making our way back to the boat by snore-o‘clock. All in all, a full day.

Isla de Culebrita
18.19.128N
65.13.738W

Today was just another beautiful day in paradise. Dale and I started our day with a swim to the beach and then a walk back and forth the entire length of the beach. Shortly after we returned, Gerry & Nicky came around and we all jumped back in and went for a snorkel by the reef just a short distance from us.

After snorkeling the Tobago Cays, I’m either spoiled or the reefs here are in worse shape than they were a year ago. In any event, I took our new underwater camera and started playing with it. As luck would have it, the fish just wouldn’t hold still long enough for me to compose a good shot, so eventually I learned to use the widest angle I could and hope one would swim in front of me. As you can see, I got a few shots with fish in them.

We returned to our respective boats for lunch and agreed to meet up again after lunch to hike over to the Culebrita ‘baths.’ Once again I jumped in to play with my new toy but everyone else took in the sights without taking the plunge.
On our way back, we were delighted with the observation that almost all of the moorings were occupied by sailboats today. Not only were they sailboats but all were live aboards. It’s the first time we’ve seen more sailboats than motor boats in this anchorage.

We finished our day by sharing a pot luck dinner with Linda & Jerry (Summer Breeze), Gerry & Nicky (Orpailleur) and Tom & Jordan on St. Christopher. Summer Breeze is heading back to Jacksonville, so we’ll catch up with Linda & Jerry on down the road. Tom & Jordan are heading to St. Thomas in another day, so we’ll more than likely say our final farewells to them there.

In a way, I suppose you can say that this is the beginning of the end of our sabbatical. We’ve both started talking about heading back to work and where to live. We’ve got six more months to go but already our trip is starting to feel as if its almost over. We’ve had a great time and answered the big question of whether we could live in such a small space 24/7, without killing each other. Jordan says that we’ll have more of a hard time returning to our ‘normal’ lives and not being together all of the time. She believes that we’ve gotten too used to having the other around as best friend, sounding board and partner in every sense. In other words, we’ve succeeded in the biggest goal of all: renewing our commitment to each other and why we work in the first place. Isn’t that what a sabbatical is all about?

Isla de Culebrita
18.19.128N
65.13.738W

Underway again! This morning Dale returned the rental car, I tried to confirm that my x-ray had been taken care of and we readied the boat for transit. Along the way, we finally met our neighbor Loretta who was starting laundry of epic proportions. We had met her husband Marshall a few days ago when they first arrived in the slip next to us.

We slipped our lines about 9:30 and said a fond farewell to Roosevelt Roads. We still don’t know if AAFES is taking over the marina or not but hope that they do, so that we’ll have our Puerto Rican home to return to in the future.

We headed out to the turning basin, unfurled our sails, then sailed in the direction of Vieques. The wind was a modest 12-15 kts with seas in the 2-4’ range. We got as close as we could to Punta Caballo before tacking back towards Culebra, dodging a Coast Guard buoy tender working in the area.

Orpailleur and St. Christopher left about an hour before us and we thought we were catching up at one point. However, in my infinite wisdom, I believed that since we had a good wind in the direction we were going, if we continued on the same tack, pinching as high as we could, we could round to the north of Culebra and scoot in with everyone else. It never works that way and I should have known it. Apparently, we actually were catching up with everyone until they tacked back behind Culebra (the normal route) and watched us taking off for points unknown. Although I was able to pinch quite high on the south side of Culebra, we needed to dodge the rocks that lead from Puerto Rico, after that, the wind started to die and we were well on our way to Africa when I turned the wheel over to Dale. About 4 pm he turned on the ‘iron genny’ to insure we made it into harbor before dark.

We arrived in Culebrita about 5:30 pm. St. Christopher, Orpailleur and Summer Breeze (our Trini neighbors) were all sitting in their cockpits watching the sunset as we scurried around trying to set an anchor bridle into the swell. (Dale refused to set a stern anchor again.) In spite of my “short cut” it was a wonderful day of sailing. The winds never rose above 18 kts and the seas were kindly, rarely above 4’ even on the exposed Atlantic side.

Dale dropped the dink and made the rounds saying hello to everyone as I set about gathering something for dinner. Gerry & Nicky joined us later for left over party snacks before we all called it an early night.

Roosevelt Roads
Puerto Rico
18.14.018N
65.37.582W

Today the guys wanted to do chores on our respective boats prior to taking off, so I picked up Nicky and headed in the direction of a specific store to pick up a birthday gift for Dale. I can’t write about it now or it wouldn’t be a surprise. Then we headed back to the Palace to do laundry and make the isinglass cover for Jordan that I had promised. Nicky was pressed into laundry service while I sewed and bless her heart, Dale got her to help him put the outboard back on its perch on the back. Sad to say, Dale knows to stay away when I’m sewing but poor Nicky got sent to the corner when she pointed out that in spite of the fact that I was measuring hems with a ruler, they appeared to be crooked. After that, she was an angel when I clearly wasn’t sewing up to my usual standards. In any event, the cover was completed, in spite of the less than perfect stitches and returned to St. Christopher. Tom & Jordan weren’t there so I climbed aboard and left it in the cockpit, giving their guard dog, Harry, a little pat for being so quiet.

Next Nicky & I headed to the nearest grocery store for our last minute veggie shopping. One of the guests that Nicky is expecting is gluten intolerant so she was seeking items with no wheat in them. I started thinking about my menus and realized she has her work cut out. No pastas, no breads, no crackers (unless they’re made of rice); sounds like a forced Atkins’ diet to me; Dale says: not quite.

Being a glutton for punishment, I had also decided that we’d host the last night on the dock farewells. We invited Tom & Jordan, Mac & Marie and their guests, as well as Gerry & Nicky. At one point we had 11 people in our cockpit passing hors dousers around. Probably not the smartest move on my part but I really wanted to see Mac & Marie again and not impose on Tom & Jordan’s graciousness with their roomy catamaran. It might have been a bit cramped but everyone seemed to enjoy the evening. Nothing like a full day of activity.

Roosevelt Roads
Puerto Rico
18.14.018N
65.37.582W

Happy Birthday Geri! You know that you’re getting older . . . when the twinkle in your eyes is the sun hitting your bifocals!

The crews of Orpailleur and Gypsy Palace dedicated today as a day of sightseeing. We started off with a trip to downtown San Juan and learned that we had chosen the day of the Boy Scout Jamboree as our day in the fabled city. Boy Scouts were pouring into the city by the minute.

We were early, so we parked next to the cemetery by the El Morrow fort. On our way up the hill, Nicky and I decided that it would be prudent to head to the loo before we got to the fort when we saw the sign indicating that there were none in the fort. We found some very nice ones in the conveniently located souvenir shop. However the ladies room was in the process of being cleaned and we were directed to the men’s room across the hall. It was clean and tidy and not at all what we envisioned a men’s room to look like, except for one item; a blow dryer at waist height. Now I suppose that this could be for children or those in wheelchairs but when we turned it on, the force was enough to blow a small child to the next island. Of course there is only one thing we figured this could be used for and indeed we harassed the guys about it for several minutes upon our return. . . . . . . . . If they didn’t splash water all over the place, there would be no need for a stand up clothes dryer.

We continued with our tour of El Morrow enjoying the views and imagining what life must have been like in days of old. By mid-morning, it was obvious that this was going to be a sweltering day. After a couple of up and downs on the steep staircases, we made our way out of the fort and headed out of the city at a snail’s pace. By this time the streets were clogged with uniformed munchkins with their larger versioned leaders and guardians in complimenting colors. The main street heading out of the city was closed for the mid-day parade so we eased through cobble stoned side streets built in the 1600’s, long before today’s SUVs were thought of.

Nicky had been looking to purchase a mask that is made in Ponce and we saw several in the windows of the stores as we passed slowly through town. We considered jumping out a making a quick purchase but the guys said that as soon as we did, the traffic would clear and they would be forced to circle around to come back and pick us up. It was made clear to us that this was not to be considered. No sense of adventure, it seems.

We eventually made our way out of San Juan and followed the signs to the Bacardi Rum factory for the tour there; no I didn’t buy any rum - in fact, I volunteered to be the designated driver. This time the walking tour wasn’t turned on (probably due to all of the cruise ships in town) and we quickly made our way through the audio/visual center and back to the tasting center. Thankfully, the tastes seemed much lighter than our first encounter a year ago and my driving services weren’t required.

We headed back to the mall in Carolina and grabbed a quick bite for lunch before making our way to Sears. Nicky’s vacuum sealer had sealed its last bag and we found a newer, smarter, more expensive version to replace it. We walked with purpose and determination through out the remainder of the mall looking for the Ponce masks, just in case they might be there and quick enough so the guys had nothing to complain about but still, no joy.

Later as we passed by the souvenir stores at the El Yunque rainforest turnoff, we found just what she wanted and just as the shops were closing. I’m glad we were able to locate them as Nicky wanted to pick one up for their daughter but they had only spent the night in Ponce and did not have enough time to locate the masks there.

Another full day and one that we ended with dinner at Lolitas as we were all exhausted from the fresh air and sunshine.

Roosevelt Roads
Puerto Rico
18.14.018N
65.37.582W

Happy Birthday Nicky! You know that you’re getting older . . . when your back goes out more often than you do!

I think that when we started out this morning, they guys were going to move Orpailleur over to the travel lift and Nicky and I were going to go back to the base and do some laundry and possibly some shopping in town without the guys. However, I had taken our computer over to their boat to download our e-mails and while in the process of making the internet connection, the guys starting untying the lines and we all ended up moving the boat over to the travel lift for the cutlass bearing to be replaced. We had told Gerry about the great deal to be found in pulling the boat during the noon lunch break. He checked into it, made all of the arrangements and while the boat was in the sling, Dale and Gerry scraped the barnacles off the keel while the people Gerry had hired worked on replacing the cutlass bearing. Nicky and I ended up supervising from some chairs in the shade. As soon as the lunch break was over, the boat was dropped back into the water.

I was surprised and delighted to see that a young woman operated the travel lift when it was time to return to the water. We all made the comment that it took 3 men to pull the boat but only 1 woman to move her back and lower her in. Once back in, we motored over to the fuel dock and topped her off before finally heading back to their slip.

With the better part of the day gone by this time, Nicky and I decided to vacuum seal her purchases from yesterday and created a little production line which had everything taken care of in fairly short order. After that we had a couple of cocktails before going up to the marina restaurant to celebrate Nicky’s birthday.

With all of the major projects completed, we only have our sight seeing left to do and then we’ll be off once again.

Roosevelt Roads
Puerto Rico
18.14.018N
65.37.582W

We picked Gerry & Nicky up this morning and after checking our e-mails via their internet connection, headed to the pottery factory that I have been wanting to visit since the early 90’s. It was another example of not knowing what to expect but once arriving, certain that what lay before me was not what I was expecting. After making the guys promise not to rush us in our perusing all of the wonderful items, we were in, out, and gone within 10 minutes.

We continued on to the town of Carolina, grabbed a bite to eat for lunch, then the guys dropped us off at Sams for re-provisioning while they went to Home Depot for their shopping. As Nicky and I walked into the vast warehouse, we had to walk past a huge flat screen TV. We both turned to each other and said that the guys would never get past that TV to find us in the back. Sure enough, when they did find us they were still talking about where to mount that big TV on the boat.

Although we had rented a large car, we stuffed it to near capacity with our purchases. We made the long drive back to our boats and called it a day; although I know that Nicky, like me, is dividing, vacuum sealing, arranging and re-arranging to make everything fit. I’m still not completely done with putting everything away but I’m finally down to cooking up all of the hamburger before dividing it, vacuum sealing and heaven only knows how I’m going to get it to fit into the freezer. I don’t know why I do this every time but there always seems to be something I can’t fit into the freezer and have to empty the whole thing out again to rearrange it one more time.

Tomorrow is Nicky’s birthday and unfortunately, the only thing we have planned thus far is Orpailleur being hauled for work on the cutlass bearing. I’ll have to figure out a good way to celebrate it besides doing laundry.

Roosevelt Roads
Puerto Rico
18.14.018N
65.37.582W

Our original intention was for Nicky and me to go shopping for a few hours while the guys checked on the cutlass bearing on Orpailleur. I took the computer along to respond to a few e-mails and by the time I was able to log into their internet connection and do my upload, they were back saying that the boat needed to be hauled to fix the problem.

Gerry had already checked on the availability of doing a quick haul and had found out that he needed some additional information from the boat manufacturer for size specifications as far as replacement parts. So once the determination was made that they did indeed need to pull the boat, it was just a matter of making a few quick rounds to confirm what was needed and when to do it.

After that, we made the normal rounds to the various chandleries for pieces and parts; a quick run to the normal WalMart, WestMarine, bank, refill on propane, a bite to eat for lunch, return to the stores that had been closed for lunch and then back to their boat to shoot the whole day. Nicky and I noted that when guys make multiple runs to stores for comparison shopping, well … that’s OK. But when we do it, its wasting time and money. We had a blast watching the two of them.

This evening as we shared dinner together, we caught up on the activities of our various children and what was going on back home. Tomorrow, Nicky and I will finally be able to go do the shopping we thought we were going to do today. The guys are going along too since we’re going in the direction of Home Depot but maybe we can figure out a way to send them off in one direction while we take our time in the pottery factory. We’ll see.

Roosevelt Roads
Puerto Rico
18.14.018N
65.37.582W

They’re here, they’re here! I was still easing into the morning when Dale turned on the radio to listen to the Safety and Security net and then the morning weather report when we heard Orpailleur hail Gypsy Palace. You would have thought that the mattress had shot a spring I bounded up so quick. When they instructed us to turn on the VHF, we knew they were close. That only meant one thing: they had left early and sailed through the night to avoid the wind and waves.

A hasty call to Jessica got us a rental car and a couple of hours later, we caught Orpailleur’s lines as Gerry & Nicky pulled into Puerto del Rey. It was so good to see them again. We spent a short time catching up, walked with them up to the office to check in and then left to give them some time to catch a few hours of sleep before returning to pick them up for a Mexican dinner at Lolitas.

Between times, Dale took me to McDonalds so that I could down load our e-mails, check our financial status and upload our blog posts. I seem to get sucked into a black hole when I’m on the computer because Dale said that I was typing away for almost 4 hours. It hardly seemed like one.

Anyway, they’re here, they want to check a few things on the boat, do a little sight seeing, re-provision and then take off for the next leg of our adventure.

Roosevelt Roads
Puerto Rico
18.14.018N
65.37.582W

We received two e-mails from Gerry & Nicky today; the most important was that they were looking to make a straight transit here from Salinas starting tomorrow morning. That should put them in this area on Wednesday sometime.

We dropped by St. Christopher and told Tom & Jordan the news. I had promised them that I would make a cover for their isinglass before we left, so I went over to measure the area and discuss how she wanted to attach the cover. She has the canvas, I have the sewing machine and thread, but after thinking about it for a while, I hope she has some large grommets to run the line through like she wants.

About mid-morning we finally received our wayward mail. It took us a couple of hours to go through, organize and respond to. Most matters I’ve made arrangements to do on-line. One issue I haven’t been able to take care of on-line is something I’ve been addressing since we left Jacksonville. It involves an x-ray, the doctor who ordered the x-ray, the facility who took the x-ray and the insurance that covered the x-ray.

The whole thing started when the insurance carrier wanted a statement from the doctor reflecting why the x-ray was necessary and bounced the bill back to the x-ray facility, who sent a copy of the rejection to me. I made my first series of telephone calls to all of the parties because none of them can conduct business of this type via e-mail, or among themselves. The insurance company doesn’t like talking with me, the doctor’s office says they can’t deal directly with the insurance regarding the x-ray facility’s bill and the x-ray facility says that they’ve sent everything they have in their files but they can’t get paid. I call all 3 from various parts of the world to pay mediator. The doctor says fine; the x-ray facility says they’ll resubmit; the insurance company says they’ll pay. But 6 months later, it pops back up and I have to make the series of calls again to find out what the problem is this time. In each instance, I remind all parties that I’m out of the country and only receive my mail about once every 6 weeks. I’m told by all parties that there’s no problem and that everything will be taken care of but 6 months later, I’ll get another notice that it wasn’t.

One problem that came to light was that the doctor’s office was trying to send me all of the information so that I could forward it back to the various parties but they didn’t have my current address updated in their computer system. They did have it in their physical file but I was actually told in my last call to them that they couldn’t update the change in my address on the computer unless I physically came into the office. These are intelligent people; I‘ve met them. They freely admit they have the correct address in correspondence from me regarding this issue in their hard file. Now I ask you, what difference does it make to the computer whether I’m standing in front of someone, calling them on the telephone or mailing them the correct address? It still has to be entered by a human.

At this point, the doctor’s office as agreed to fax the statement to the x-ray facility and they have agreed to resubmit the invoice to the insurance company. The insurance company says that’s all they’re waiting for. I’m going to call again before we leave Puerto Rico while I still have good telephone service just to be sure.

Dale reminded me that this was a prime example of why we felt the need to take our sabbatical in the first place.

Roosevelt Roads
Puerto Rico
18.14.018N
65.37.582W


The Great Thong Theory and Shoe Search. You may recall from yesterday, Dale’s footwear walked off without him. So today we conducted a less than scientific experiment to see if the remaining flipflop sank or swam to see if we were going to swim or search. While I photographed the trials, Dale tied a string to the surviving twin then kicked it off to see what would happen. We both witnessed the results: it floated like a toy boat bobbing in a bathtub. Guess that means we search.


We lowered the dink, mounted the outboard and African Queen putt, putted to the closest windward shore of the harbor to begin our perimeter search; keeping in mind that we might find Australian footprints of shoenappers instead. Within 20 feet of our starting point, we were poling our way around mangrove roots with the boat hook, with me on the bow, butt in the air leaning way over, peering beneath the bushes as best I could. We found an assortment of buckets, tires, crates and ropes of every imaginable color. We also found several fenders; one really, really big one that I wanted to strap to the boat to keep it from sinking but Dale said I was delusional. It was as big as the dink, so I think he just didn’t want to drag it back against the wind.

When it got deep enough, Dale would switch from the boat hook/pole method of propulsion to rowing backwards (supposedly so he could see where he was going). We frightened a manta ray and saw a couple of good sized fish. Right about the time I started to worry that the Coast Guard guys would see us and chase us away, I saw it. It’s bright yellow Corona letters glistening in the water. It had made its way past the main perimeter and was making its way to an interior cove created by the mangrove trees themselves. We forced the dink through the narrow opening and extended the boat hook to its full length to reach the escapee taking refuge on a small island tree in the middle of the cove.

Once retrieved, we turned around and tried to make our way back out against the wind. At this point, I had one oar and Dale had the boat hook. We worked against each other most of the way out but still managed to break free. Once we cleared the majority of the roots, Dale took over the rowing (backwards, of course) and continued our journey towards deeper water by way of the wind forcing us sideways. Somehow we managed to get ourselves into deeper water so that we could lower the outboard and power our way back to the Palace with the fugitive safely tucked beneath a couple of small fenders that somehow found their way into the dink.

Back on board, his flipflops reunited, Dale was a happy camper when he made his way to the showers with his favorite footwear. He keeps telling me how hard it is to find a really comfortable pair of shoes. I wonder what the hospital will think of his new fashion statements: a pony tail, flipflops and lets not forget about that little earring!

Roosevelt Roads
Puerto Rico
18.14.018N
65.37.582W

Dale decided today that he would make some adjustments to my bicycle. But when he took the bike off the boat, he somehow managed to kick one of his Corona flipflops into the drink without noticing. That or the wind blew it off; or one of the dude brothers saw them and decided that it would be really cool to throw one away. You know the two dudes. They usually show up when something strange happens. The stories to the police or docs in hospital ERs start with something like . . . "I was minding my own business when these two dudes walked up . . . (and did something strange) and that's why I'm here."

Well, that's what happened to Dale. One of his favorite flipflops went missing and it wasn't his fault. In any event, we were on our way over to Tom & Jordan's to play Mexican Train dominos when the lack of footwear became obvious. Now giving some thought to the matter, I think that its a matter of a reciprocal ‘napping. We have Gerry & Nicky's anchor, they’ve pinched Dale's flipflop. The last message we had from them was 3 days ago saying they were in Salinas. Maybe they've made it here and snuck in under cloudy skies to abscond with Dale's flipflop. Just in case it wasn’t them, we’ll drop the dink tomorrow and search the mangroves to check to see if it shows up there.

Roosevelt Roads
Puerto Rico
18.14.018N
65.37.582W

It was so quiet today it was spooky. I gathered up what laundry we had and washed it but after that, we just read and played computer games. In the afternoon, we broke out the bikes and headed towards All Hands Beach exploring. We rode down towards the water treatment plant, then down a dirt path towards a pier that overlooked the old Navy SEAL base, before heading back to the road that leads towards the beach. We didn't get very far past the beach when I saw a short coconut tree with several branches of good sized coconuts within arms reach. Well, Dale's arm at least. He was able to grab one branch that had about 8 coconuts on it and bring it down for me. I managed to balance the branch on my handlebars and started making the ride back.

Now I'm sure that you, like Dale, are wondering what in the world I'm going to do with all of my over grown seeds. Well, plant them of course! If you set a coconut off to the side and ignore it, it'll sprout a tree. That was my plan until I got about half way back to the boat and realized that I could set my coconuts off to the side and ignore them all I wanted but with the boat rocking all of the time, I don't know if my plan will work. In any event, I have 8 attempts. If nothing else, I have 8 bug free coconuts to eat at my leisure.

P.S: Geri and Betty Rae, we thought of you two in the Bahamas with your coconuts Unfortunately, my shirt wasn’t big enough to carry all 8 of them.

Roosevelt Roads
Puerto Rico
18.14.018N
65.37.582W

Feeling much better today, Dale made a quick trip in to WestMarine to pick up the anchor we had ordered for Gerry & Nicky (we never have heard how they lost their other one - can’t wait for that story). He dropped off the car to Jessica, who dropped him and the anchor back at the boat. Then we set to writing the perfect ransom note:

• wE haVe yOuR aNchOR. If yOu eVeR waNt to See it, dON't dO anytHiNg StuPid. dO NOt cONtact the autHoRitieS: NO pOlice, NO fbi, NO tOw bOat US. yOu will receiVe fuRtheR inStRuctiOnS at a LateR date.

We haven't figured out what our demands will be. I'm working on that now.

Roosevelt Roads
Puerto Rico
18.14.018N
65.37.582W

Jessica, the owner/operator of the Avis car rental agency that we frequent, picked us up at 8am this morning. Her 2 year old daughter came along for the ride so I got my baby fix for a few minutes. Like me, her daughter needs to ease into the morning but by the time we actually made it out to the front gate to where the rental agency is located, she was smiling and having a good time. Once the papers were signed, we were off to find the dentist’s office in Humacao.

We had the directions that the receptionist had given us but couldn’t figure out whether she knew we by passed the first toll booth on the highway leading to Humacao or not. Since we had plenty of time, we checked out the remaining directions and through analytical deduction concluded that she did indeed know what she was talking about and if we followed her directions explicitly, we would have found the office on the first try. However, being our usual skeptical selves, we first had to check out the wrong exit first, in both directions, just to be sure.

The dentist’s office was one of those ‘first come, first served’ services, so Dale checked in and then came back to the car to keep me company for the first hour. When he finally was able to be seen, he and the dentist talked about sailing and travels and where they had gone to medical school, etc. The long and short of it was that once the x-ray was developed and read, Dale needed a root canal.

One of the great things about traveling with a doctor is that he brought a few antibiotics with him and had already started a regimen before seeking counsel. Because of this, there was no need to wait for the antibiotics to take effect for surgery, so the dentist called and spoke with an endodontist, who agreed to do the root canal a few hours later. Find that in the U.S!

We had just enough time to grab some lunch before searching out the next office. I teased Dale that it would be his last meal for some time so he’d better make the best of it. He chose the nearby Pizza Hut. So much for the last meal theory.

We found the next office without any drama but when I took off to kill some time, I found myself going back and forth on Route 30 looking for the Route 53 exit. I could not find it anywhere. About an hour later I found a sign for Farjardo and figured that if I could find something familiar, I could at least find my way back to Dale. It worked, thanks to our earlier forays back and forth along the main street in Humacao. As luck would have it, I found myself on the main road through Humacao coming up behind Sams. I took the opportunity presented and picked up a basic computer at Sam’s to use as a spare and then made my way back to Dale.

I had just parked when he came outside. Talk about timing. I told him of the problems I had encountered and we started our way back. We began along the same highway but Dale saw a sign in the bushes reflecting a subdivision in the right direction. We took the exit and ended up where we needed to be. At least I wasn’t crazy. There was no sign with the highway number. It was one of those ‘you can’t get there from here’ and you just needed to know where you were going, in order to take the right exit.

We made a quick stop at the local McDonalds to upload some of my blog posts before making our way back to the base. I hadn’t driven a car in several months and enjoyed the day out. So far, even though he has a droopy smile, Dale says he feels better already.

Roosevelt Roads
Puerto Rico
18.14.018N
65.37.582W

Beggars can’t be choosers, so we accepted Mr. Toad’s wild ride to Ft. Buchanan with grace and humility to do some shopping at the base at the opposite end of the island taking the new highway from Carolina that by passes to the south of San Juan proper. We were hoping to take advantage of the sale on computers but were unable to find anything basic to use as a back up to the one we carry to the various internet cafés down island. So we did the next best thing. Shopped for anything else that might catch our eye and would fit on the boat. That left us to the few hard to find items I keep on my running list. I found the rib roast I wanted for Easter Sunday as well as the pimentos, crumbled feta cheese, radishes, and sliced black olives I always keep an eye out for. So while Tom & Jordan did major provisioning, Dale and I ate ice cream and people watched.

We had a good time on our trek across the island in spite of the growing concern that Dale has a sore tooth. He’s been taking antibiotics hoping that it would go away but since it hasn’t, he finally broke down and asked for the name of Tom’s dentist in Humacao. We’ve rented a car for tomorrow and will seek out professional advice.

When we got back to the boat, there was a message from Gerry & Nicky. They’re in Ponce now and should be here by the end of the week. After a couple of days of sight seeing, then re-provisioning, we’ll be off to the Virgin Islands to pick up their guests coming in from England; who, if I understand this correctly want to be dropped off in Trinidad. Sounds like a quick trip over the next couple of months. I know the boat can handle it, I hope we can.

Roosevelt Roads
Puerto Rico
18.14.018N
65.37.582W

Well today started off with a bang. When we went up to get our bikes for our morning bike ride, Dale’s had been vandalized. Not bad; something little like the other 2 times, but this time it made it so that he couldn’t ride it. Mine had been messed with but nothing that can’t be readjusted. I was still able to complete my exercise but Dale stayed behind and filled out an incident report with the base police. The main problem is that the marina manager thinks that the only people who have the access when we’re not watching the bikes are the base police. Needless to say, the bikes are now housed on the boat.

What’s truly ironic is that while we were in Trinidad surrounded by petty crime pretty much on a daily occurrence, our bikes were never touched while they were locked to the fence at the end of the dock. Here, where we feel as safe as in our mother’s arms, the bikes have been messed with while they were locked right in front of the boat and outside of the marina manager’s office on 3 separate occasions. This time we can’t say that children were the culprits. At first blush, yes. Definitely the screws removed from Dale’s bike could have been done by deft little fingers. But the readjustments made to my bike had to have been made by someone taller and stronger than the little ones running around over the weekend.

Roosevelt Roads
Puerto Rico
18.14.018N
65.37.582W

Today was a pretty quiet day. We visited with our neighbors although I never did catch what their names were. The children all speak excellent English without a trace of an accent, compliments of the school they attend where 50% of the teachers do not speak Spanish. Their father retired from the U.S. Navy but has a bit of an accent that his eldest daughter thinks is terrible. Their mother, a chef, doesn’t speak any English but she sends over plates of food when they’re here on the weekends, which of course, translates into any language. Last week she sent over barbequed shrimp and chicken wings. Today she sent over Caesar salad and paella. Each dish has been wonderful. I told Dale he was getting too skinny when the neighbors start sending over food every time they see us. I think next weekend I’ll send something over to them. I’m not nearly the cook she is but it’s the thought that counts, right?

Roosevelt Roads
Puerto Rico
18.14.018N
65.37.582W

We finally heard from Gerry & Nicky. Apparently they had run into some bad weather regardless of what the forecast had been and had pulled into Samana on the eastern side of the Dominican Republic for a 12 hour rest before making a smooth transit across the Mona. They are now resting in Boqueron on the western side of Puerto Rico. At least we’re on the same island now. It will probably be the end of next week before we see them.

Although a lot of boats went out for the gorgeous weekend, its been a quiet day. We ended it by getting together with Tom & Jordan and Bill & Sharon on Wild Orchid for a couple of hours. Bill & Sharon will be heading out on Monday morning for St. Martin and wanted to say good by to everyone. Hopefully, we won’t be too far behind.

Roosevelt Roads
Puerto Rico
18.14.018N
65.37.582W

Bless his heart since he hasn’t been able to do his morning jog, Dale rode along with me on my morning bike ride, then helped me defrost and clean the refrigerator & freezer. We need to use up some of the frozen items from the bottom of the freezer before we re-provision for the trip south again. I love it when he has energy to burn.

Gerry & Nicky should have arrived in Puerto Rico today but we haven’t heard anything yet.
Tom dropped by to say that they were renting a car on Monday and would let me tag along to McDonalds for an internet connection. On Tuesday, they plan on going to Ft. Buchanan, so I may tag along on that trip as well.

Roosevelt Roads
Puerto Rico
18.14.018N
65.37.582W

Early this morning we moved the boat over to the adjoining slip so that Dale could wash and wax the port side of the boat. I replaced some of the screens that have started to disintegrate in the sun. The nylon screening material keeps out the tiny insects but it certainly can’t take the direct sun for any length of time. At some point I’m going to have to finish polishing the stainless on the starboard side but I’m hoping for a cloudy or at least a cooler day in which to do it.

Roosevelt Roads
Puerto Rico
18.14.018N
65.37.582W

Finally, the post office was open and we were told in a very abrupt manner that the address on our mail was insufficient and that it was returned. Now mind you, there is only one marina and one post office on this base, about a quarter of a mile apart on the same road but instead of placing it into the correct box, the post mistress elected to return the package because it didn’t have the post office box number on the parcel. Technically she was correct. But there are only about 6 active post boxes on base, how much effort would it have taken for her to simply put it into the right box? So much for “rain, snow, sleet or hail.” I found the situation so ridiculous that I didn’t even bother to take issue with it.

Instead, we went back to the boat where Dale contacted our mail service and told them the package was on its way back and to add the post office box number on it. I kept busy by polishing the stainless on port side.

Roosevelt Roads
Puerto Rico
18.14.018N
65.37.582W

We checked again at the post office for our missing mail. Regardless of what the sign in the window indicated when we got to the post office, they were closed. We’ll try again tomorrow.
Good news from Opailleur. We received word from Gerry & Nicky that they plan on leaving Luperon tomorrow morning and will be traveling straight to Ponce on the south side of Puerto Rico; they should arrive Friday afternoon or evening. With any kind of luck, they will be in our area by the end of next week. The weather window they had been hoping for has held and even expanded for an additional few days. They should have a great transit across the Mona.

Dale managed to dislocate the big toe on his right foot today when he tripped over part of the picnic bench he was using as a work table. It’s a lovely shade of purple tonight so he won’t be able to do his morning run for awhile.

Roosevelt Roads
Puerto Rico
18.14.018N
65.37.582W

Today on my morning ride, I thought I’d start the search for our missing mail. We had asked for it to be sent to us back on the 12th of January and since last year when we were here it was mis-delivered, we thought that perhaps the same had occurred this year. I checked at the security office, the OIC’s office, and the supply office (they get most of the mail on base) but no luck. So I headed back to the boat, we rechecked with our mail forwarding service and learned that they used the US Postal service to mail it this time. Not a problem, the post office happens to be open on Monday afternoons here on base; I’ll just ride back down and check with them. Except that as of today no less, they weren’t open. The sign on the door indicated that they would be open tomorrow. Oh boy. I hope this doesn’t mean that we’ll be waiting week to week for mail now.

Later, I popped over to St. Christopher to check in with Jordan. I had volunteered to help her make canvas covers for her isinglass. Unfortunately, she didn’t have enough material to do what she wanted, so that project has been put off for a while.

In the meantime, Dale continues to clean and polish isinglass and I’ve started cleaning and polishing the stainless. Dale is reading Mark Twain and I’m into Agatha Christie’s Miss Marple series. I should probably start taking notes so that I can sleuth out our missing mail. So . . . Until tomorrow . . . I am observing.

Roosevelt Roads
Puerto Rico
18.14.018N
65.37.582W

This morning Dale and I once again headed into town and finished the remainder of our errands before heading back to the boat. I try to keep a running list of what we need or what we should take care of when we do rent a car but in the evenings when we have a car, there’s always one or two more things we think of. Maybe its just an excuse to go somewhere; after all we do like to travel.

Word from Gerry & Nicky is that they are looking for another weather window to open in a couple of more days. If it doesn’t, we’re thinking of getting off the dock for awhile; we’re starting to get a film of gunk on the Palace’s bottom. With the type of bottom paint we have, it should only take a brisk ride in the open water to give her a good cleaning. That and we’re starting to set up a routine. Dale jogs every other morning. I ride my bike every morning. We both find something on the boat to polish, mend, fix, grease, clean, tidy up, or rearrange for the rest of the morning then either read or play computer games during the heat of the day. It’s not a bad life but something to keep in mind when we do finally retire. We have a habit of setting up routines after a couple of weeks and I think for us, we need more activity. When we’re moving from island to island, we don’t have time to set up routines.

In any event, we spent a quiet day. We figure that the next time we rent a car, if Gerry & Nicky are here, we’ll go visit Mac & Marie!

Roosevelt Roads
Puerto Rico
18.14.018N
65.37.582W

Today we picked up Tom & Jordan and made our way to Micky D’s. We each took a table and hooked into the internet for the rest of the morning. The transfer of the old blog posts to the new and improved look was completed and I was able to load all of the posts for this year. I was surprised when the older posts took on the new look but I think it makes reading them a lot easier and it certainly is quicker to upload them. Hopefully down island, it will be just as quick.

Tom was grumbling from time to time as he couldn’t get his Skype to work. I knew his software was loaded properly since he had been able to use the connection at the base before the bowling alley closed so it had to be something simple. Dale was reading a book off to the side and went over to assist. He asked Tom to go back out and show him from the beginning what he was doing. Sure enough, on the very first step Dale saw the difference. Once that was changed, Tom & Jordan were happy campers talking to all of their relatives for the rest of the morning. I think Tom was a little embarrassed when the problem was identified but sometimes it just takes a second pair of eyes to see the difference.

After we were all caught up with our internet activities, we headed back to the base and passed the word to Bill & Sharon that we were all going to Lolitas for dinner since we had transportation that would carry all of us. We had a great evening and enjoyed our dinner out.

Roosevelt Roads
Puerto Rico
18.14.018N
65.37.582W

Happy Birthday Kyle! You know you’re getting older when you can only burn the midnight oil until 9 o’clock; we thank you and Veronica every day for making us grandparents.

What luck! Today when we picked up our rental car, they were all out of compact ones and were forced to give us a Ford Freestyle. We’d never even heard of this model before. In case you haven’t, it’s like a cross between an SUV and a minivan. Great for loading up the back end with provisions or hauling around 5 or 6 of your favorite people.

Today, we were mostly interested in finding affordable internet access. Again our luck held. One of the marina secretaries told us that McDonalds’ had internet. Sure enough! Not only did they have WiFi, it was FREE, FAST and conveniently located to power outlets!!! Wahoo, we’re cooking with gas now!

Dale and I tagged teamed the poor computer. We caught up with friends and family and updated our blogspot with a new look for the new year. Most of our cruising buddies that we left in Martinique have now made their way here and hopefully, we’ll be able to meet up with some of them again as they either pass through or head back down again.

Dale made side trips to the hardware store; Westmarine was in the same complex and WalMart was right across the street. By the time I was done, so was he. We were also lucky when we went into the grocery store we’d been shopping at lately, as it was the last day that they were open. Apparently, they have been sold to another chain and will be closed for an indefinite period of time. No signs; nothing; at least nothing that we could translate.

We hurried back to the boat and put things away and had just enough time to make appetizers for our gathering on St. Christopher with Tom & Jordan and Bill & Sharon for a night of dominos. We passed the word that McDonalds was a great find and tomorrow we’ll head back with Tom & Jordan in tow.

Sadly, today we also learned of Roger Wolfert’s death on the 6th of January. For those of you who have followed this site since its inception, you know that Roger & Elaine on DocNoMore were mentioned almost daily from November 2005, when we met them in the Exumas until June 2006, when they returned home for hurricane season. We were all eager to continue sailing together on their return to Trini in October, when Roger was diagnosed with pancreatic cancer. DocNoMore was sold by November and both Roger and Elaine have been sorely missed in the cruising community since then; particularly by us. They will always hold a special place in our hearts and will be fondly remembered each time we blow the conch horn or play Mexican Train Dominos. We hope to see Elaine in the near future.

Roosevelt Roads
Puerto Rico
18.14.018N
65.37.582W

Today was laundry day. The missing dryer and the inoperable one next to it were replaced with two that worked. With one washer and 2 dryers, my task was completed rather quickly.

Dale polished a couple more isinglass sections before the rain chased him back in. The wind has been rather brisk lately which leads us to believe that outside our protected harbor, things must be rather nasty. We rarely feel the effects of the wind inside so when we’re tugging at our lines and rocking back and forth, it’s got to be awful beyond its boundaries. It’s a good thing Gerry & Nicky decided to wait for another window, this is heading in their direction.

Roosevelt Roads
Puerto Rico
18.14.018N
65.37.582W

Dale is trying to keep busy so today he decided to clean and polish our isinglass. In the past this has been on my list of things to do but I certainly won’t look a gift horse in the mouth, particularly when he’s starting to get bored with reading everyday. We have 10 sections of isinglass and he started with the 3 in front to space out the work. Also, it does take a bit of elbow grease and a little shade. When he brought each one back, if they needed their zippers re-sewn, I’d do it before they were put back up. We had a nice little assembly line going. In the meantime, I dusted, swept, mopped and shook out all of the rugs. Its amazing how dusty this boat gets so quickly.

We heard from Gerry & Nicky this afternoon. The window they had been hoping to catch, “fizzled” and the next possible one doesn’t appear until late next week. If you remember when we were caught in Luperon, its definitely best to wait for a 3 day window so you don’t get beat to death. We started out in an iffy one and ended up having to return and wait another couple of weeks. As it was, even when you do get a window, rounding the capes of Hispaniola can get a little exciting.

Roosevelt Roads
Puerto Rico
18.14.018N
65.37.582W

While Dale continued his washing and waxing at the transom of the boat, I tried another tactic to access the internet.. This time by telephone dial up at the marina office. Still no joy. Apparently they have analogue telephone lines; I can’t win for losing but I did learn that most of the MacDonalds restaurants in Puerto Rico have internet cafés. That certainly gives me another option. Guess I better rent a car.

I tried a new appetizer recipe which was well received when we went over to Tom & Jordan’s tonight. Bill, who we met at a previous dinner on St. Christopher, brought his catamaran over from Puerto del Rey earlier and we were meeting his wife, Sharon, who had just arrived. They will be sailing the Caribbean for the winter season.

In discussing current events at dinner this evening, Tom saw where the local Pizza Hut advertised WiFi. You know, its really sad when 6 adults sit around and the most important things in their lives are where we can access the internet and what happened to the dryer in the laundry; it just disappeared.

Roosevelt Roads
Puerto Rico
18.14.018N
65.37.582W

For our chores today, Dale washed and waxed the starboard side of the boat. I dug out my sewing machine and started re-stitching some of the enclosure pieces where the thread was disintegrating away from the zippers. Then we picked up our books and read for the remainder of the day. I’m afraid that doesn’t make for a good blog post.

Roosevelt Roads
Puerto Rico
18.14.018N
65.37.582W

In search of exercise and new surroundings, we took the bikes out for a ride today to get off the boat. Since the bowling alley has been closed, we haven’t been doing much of that recently. We rode in the opposite direction toward what had been known as All Hands Beach.

As we rode past the current headquarters of the base, we turned right (by the post office) and rode down and out onto the old fuel pier that is now being used as a fishing pier. We reminisced about the ships that were once proudly docked there and the welcoming parties we attended in their honor. We doubled back and continued on towards the beach.

We were disappointed to see that the old enlisted club appeared to have been vandalized or least the front door had been pried off and left standing slightly ajar.

Street lights with three feet of concrete still attached to their bases were uprooted and left hanging half on/half off rusty flat bed trailers to the side of the club; abandoned I guess.
As we passed by All Hands Beach, there were some boy/cub scouts shooting off parachute rockets in the parking lot now filled with weeds and its beach littered knee deep with dead sea grass. The hidden beach where my daughter and I went barely a year ago had its road blocked off to traffic and was hardly recognizable with the growth that had already taken place. I was really disappointed as it had been the last of the beaches we had enjoyed as a family that we had been able to gain access to when we were here in February 2006. The hillside leading to the beach that had once been lush with palm trees and undergrowth was bulldozed and apparently being used as a landfill.

It really broke my heart to see the base dying this way. Pretty soon they’ll have to take a bush hog to run ways where jets and helicopters once landed daily. Don’t get me wrong, they’re still mowing the common areas and trimming the bushes but the longer the grounds are unused, the more the termites, vines, and weeds encroach into the area.

Although the base commander gave us permission to ride our bikes into the housing area where we once lived, we haven’t ventured in that direction. I’m not sure I’d even have the heart to now.

We returned to the Palace and picked up new books to read and later this evening we finished watching the A&E Hornblower series that Tom & Jordan loaned to us. We enjoyed each one and were actually disappointed when the story was over.

Roosevelt Roads
Puerto Rico
18.14.018N
65.37.582W

I’ve admired Ellen MacArthur for some time now and having finished reading her autobiography today, I am more in awe than ever before. She is an amazing young athlete and competitive sailor.

While I finished my literary pursuits, Dale went up to the marina store and bought more rum. There was no limit today but I reminded him that the limits of our boat have just about been met. We do need to leave room for groceries in case we want some crackers to go with our rum.
When the rain moved in, we turned our attention back to the Hornblower series and watched a couple more of the movies; we’ve really been enjoying those.
In case you’re wondering, our modifications to the back awning were doing quite nicely in the wind and rain.

Although we haven’t heard from Gerry & Nicky, a review of the weather in their area would indicate that they might be waiting another week should the small window that might appear early next week close before they can get out or doesn’t allow enough time to even get out. If that’s the case, we’re contemplating moving on to St. Thomas to wait for them with the base closing more and more of its amenities. We’re disparately in need of an internet connection and will start looking for one that we can ride our bikes to - although it will be a very long ride.
We finished our day by meeting up with Tom & Jordan and their friends Jack & MeiLing, a naturally blonde Puerto Rico with a Chinese name (her description, not mine). We ate Tex-Mex food and played Mexican Dominoes. At the end of the evening, I had the highest score. For those of you who don’t know the game, that means I didn’t win.

Roosevelt Roads
Puerto Rico
18.14.018N
65.37.582W

We were one of the first people in line with Tom & Jordan this morning when the marina mini-mart had it’s sale. We used all of our allotted liquor purchase power; regrettably, there were no Cheetos to be found.

Once again we dug into the bag of books and movies that Tom & Jordan loaned us. I started reading Ellen MacArthur’s autobiography “Taking On The World” and am thoroughly entranced. Dale grabbed a James Paterson book we didn’t have in our collection. At night, we’ve started watching the A&E Hornblower series taken from C. S. Forester’s Horatio Hornblower books. Although I’d heard of the books, I had not heard of the movie series. They’re along the lines of the Master and Commander movie but the lead character is younger, a lot nicer and more handsome. So far, the first ones are pretty good.

Roosevelt Roads
Puerto Rico
18.14.018N
65.37.582W

We’ve heard from 2 very reliable sources that AAFES is definitely taking over the marina; possibly by the end of the week. BRAC is the official owner of the base itself and it will remain a military operation until October of this year. To add a little more confirmation to the rumor that AAFES is taking over the marina, there’s going to be a sale at the marina mini mart. Everything must go. Cash only. Limited to 6 bottles of liquor per card holder. I’m not even sure they have 6 bottles of coconut rum but if they do, they’re mine. Plus all of the Cheetos - I didn’t see any limits on the food items. Too bad I don’t have a reliable freezer; they have ice cream up there too.

Today Dale is running another grounding wire from the wind generator to another control panel. He’s emptied out the back lazarette to do so and soon enough was inside wanting me to tear the back cushions and bed out so that he could feed the wire through. Apparently, his original grounding wire was to the autopilot motor casing and he’s since thought better of the arrangement so decided to ground it to main grounding terminal. It certainly sounds like a better arrangement. In the event of a lightening strike, I sure would hate to lose the autopilot motor.

Jordan created a monster the other night when we had dinner on her boat and she suggested that we exchange books and movies while we’re here. Dale and I devour books after our chores and watch movies once the sun goes down. That bag of books and DVDs is going to keep us busy while we’re here.

Roosevelt Roads
Puerto Rico
18.14.018N
65.37.582W

Dale and I modified the back awning this morning. We had been having a problem with rain water collecting on it and causing it to mildew. I already have a rain catcher, so I didn’t need another. I borrowed part of someone else’s idea and purchased ½” PVC pipe to feed through the end hem securing it to the two sides of the back arch thus creating a taller arch. I wanted the awning arch to be high enough to allow the motion activated light to still work and for Dale to be able to walk underneath it without ducking all of the time but still out of the way of the wind generator and not cause a shadow on the solar panels. Dale added another grommet to it so that we could secure the arching portion aft and right now it’s looking pretty good. Only time will tell whether it’s a good design for wind and rain.

Our next project was to see if we could hook into another internet connection up at the office. With the base officially closed, we’ve been living in a type of limbo here. Don’t get me wrong, I’d rather be here with only water, electricity and laundry than a couple of miles down the road with everything else at twice the cost and half the security.

Regrettably, we were unsuccessful in our attempt to use the marina office’s internet lines. It appears that some type of guard has been placed on the internet access in the marina office as the connections there were originally designed as government work stations. Those in the bowling alley were specifically designed to be unlimited internet connections. Even using our computer, we were unable to connect, so we’ll have to collect these posts and find another way to upload them the next time we have access to a car.

Roosevelt Roads
Puerto Rico
18.14.018N
65.37.582W

We returned the rental car this morning and set about hanging the front sun awning. Dale replaced the hinges on the cooler that were broken and greased the snaps and zippers to the isinglass and screens.

Mac, Dale’s fellow physician from Roosey’s Naval Hospital, dropped by to say hi and to discuss the fate of the marina. He keeps his boat in the dry storage here. We enjoyed his visit however brief.

We ended with dinner on St. Christopher where we met Mike’s wife Monica and another Air Force retireee by the name of Bill. His boat is on the hard at Puerto del Rey but he’d like to move it over here once he gets it back in the water. The more the merrier we all agreed.

Roosevelt Roads
Puerto Rico
18.14.018N
65.37.582W

Bright and early this morning before the wind picked up, we dropped the jib and cleared the halyard that had caught yesterday. We hoisted the jib back up the roller furling, rolled it back in and headed for our rental car.

We went into town to a hardware store for some narrow PVC pipe for the back awning. Dale and I had kicked around a couple of ideas to improve our set up. We dropped by West Marine for some hardware for a broken hinge on our cooler/line locker and where I was specifically forbidden from buying any more Christmas ornaments.

When we returned to the marina, the possibility before we left, had become a strong belief that AAFES was taking over the marina; hopefully by the end of the week. However they were not taking over the bowling alley. This part was not good for those of us who need our internet connection. Until someone takes over, there is no internet, mini-mart or diesel services available. At least the power and water is still on which also means we still have laundry facilities.

Roosevelt Roads
Puerto Rico
18.14.018N
65.37.582W

This morning the weather looked good, so we decided to climb to the top of the mast again. Dale had rigged another type of weight that would fit into the allotted spaced and found a spool of a heavier gauge of line (about the size of a clothes line, if you remember those) to use as a leader line. I donned the appropriate gear and up I went. I’m not sure if I mentioned this before, but part of the gear that we use is a set of headphones. It keeps the shouting to a minimum and the communication much more clear.

At first, everything went according to plan. The weight and line fitted where it needed to go and dropped without incident. Sort of. Then, just like the last time, it appeared to be dropping but not getting anywhere. This time we decided that we were going to pull it back out, measure it, then drop it again to see if we were being impatient or if it was hanging up someplace. Except that it when I started to pull it back out, suddenly it seemed to fall and Dale was able to see it and retrieve it out of the exit hole it needed to come out of. Great!! We’re cooking with gas now; the slight hang up was forgotten. He cut off the weight at his end and started pulling so that I could attach the rope that was going to be our new halyard at my end on top.

He had given me two types of tape to use to connect the two lines. One was blue masking tape the other was duck tape, just in case. Piss poor planning on my part, I overlapped about 20” of the two pieces of rope and started connecting them together without taking into consideration the fact that I was near the end of the blue masking tape. Sure enough, about half way from the end of my 20” overlap-line-tape splice, I ran out. That’s why I had duck tape, right? Have you ever tried to use duck tape at 65’ in the air?

Now mind you, I’ve got a great perch on the world that high up. I’m sandwiched among 2 lengths of standing rigging holding the mast upright on either side. The foresail roller furling cable leads forward to the bow and the topping lift to the boom leads aft to the back of the boat. I’ve been hoisted up to a point in the midst of all of these points and I’ve secured myself to the top with a safety tether that leads around the mast, over the top and back to me. I’m not going anywhere and I can work with both hands. However, I needed 2 hands to keep the tape straight, another 2 to hold the lines together and still another to use the miniature knife scissors I’d brought , since ripping it with my teeth produced unreliable results.

The first 12” section I unrolled, immediately stuck to itself before I even had a chance to cut it. The next two 6 and 9” sections had at least waited until I cut them to plaster themselves together. I was developing a rather impressive list of salty sailor phrases when Dale used his doctor voice trying to convince me to relax and not get frustrated; we had all the time in the world to finish our project. Remember the headsets; clear communication without shouting. I smiled; the shoe was on the other foot today.

Then I had the brilliant idea that I would cut a little 3” piece to connect the end of my splice together and send it down since most of my splice was already taped. That accomplished, I gave the signal and Dale started tugging, I fed the splice through the rollers on top and down it went. Sort of.

We’d fed quite a bit through when it seemed to hang up again. We came up with a system of you tug, then I’ll tug, to try to force it through. Sometimes it would clear and continue down, but at one point, it just jammed in tight. Using my body weight to try and force it back the way it had come, it finally cleared so I pulled it back up and saw what I was afraid might have happened, the section of splice not taped had doubled up on itself and formed a bow between the two pieces of splice that were taped. I was able to dig the splice out of the top of the mast and using the ace bandage approach to taping, I secured a small section of duck tape around the splice then with a couple of inches at a time, would unroll it and wrap it around the splice. It wasn’t pretty but it wasn’t going to slide up either. Back down it went.

This time when it jammed, no amount of tugging, body weight or salty sailor phrases at either end of the line would clear it. Now what?

I asked Dale if he was up for some exercise and after securing the remaining rope at the top of the mast, asked him to lower me down to the various inspection points on the mast. The rope had cleared the first point I had come to on the mast but at the second one I couldn’t tell. So I asked for additional implements of destruction; a small flashlight and a wire hanger. By way of the dangling rope, Dale sent up my requests and the biggest screwdriver I had ever seen. I used all three in fishing out what appeared to be our leader line with a huge ‘nest’ of string attached to it. Do you remember our original attempt in St. Thomas at running the halyard using a spool of string I had sent down the mast? We had wondered where all of that string had gone. Well now we know. Once I was able to clear the nest out of the tiny hole, I went about cutting it off our leader line and was finally able to fish our rope out to that point. However, whether I liked it or not, there were about 10 pieces of string I couldn’t clear out. Since there was no reasonable choice left for me, I pulled them out as much as I could, then cut them. Back up to the top I went. Dale was definitely getting his workout for the day.

This time the line moved when we pulled on it and we were able to finish leading the halyard the remaining distance to the bottom of the mast. Sort of. Now when we ran into a hang up, the nest was found at Dale’s end of the line. The other 10 lines and about twice the nest I had found came out at his end. He had just as much fun, cleaning the nest off his end as I had at mine before finally being able to lead the rope out. He was dutifully impressed with my ‘wrap’ job. I reminded him that we had put a lot of tension on that wrap job and it held through the entire ordeal. We secured the halyard on deck and once again, Dale lowered me down the length of the mast.

The only thing left to do was hoist up the jib up on the foresail roller furling and roll it in. Thankfully, this was accomplished without a hitch. Sort of. Once we had secured everything, Dale noticed that the new halyard we had just run was pinched between the halyard for the jib and the top portion of the roller furling. At the top of the mast, of course. That meant dropping the jib again to clear the line and then running the jib back up. We figured that we’d save that for tomorrow.

We took a break and while sitting in the cockpit wondered where the original weight and leader wire that it was attached to went? We still haven’t found it. I surmised that at the worst possible moment, probably in a raging storm, we’ll figure it out and where it went and we won’t like it a bit.

Roosevelt Roads
Puerto Rico
18.14.018N
65.37.582W

As I remarked before, when we returned to Roosey, the hot water tank was waiting for us and has been sitting in our cockpit patiently until the stars and moon were properly a lined for a quick and painless replacement procedure. Today was the day we had been waiting for. We were well rested, well fed and ready to attack the task at hand. We also had a car nearby in case we needed additional pieces and parts.

Dale prepped the area by first clearing all pillows, cushions, charts and cameras from sight. We both decided that this would be a good day for me to do laundry, so I cleared all clothing, towels and rugs from the general area as well. (Having just discovered one of my hand towels covered in grease and being used as chafe gear in the dinghy, I left him with a roll of paper towels.)

The laundry room is in the building just in front of where our boat is slipped, so I opted for the back and forth between loads method of washing instead of the taking a book and camping out routine. On my first trip back to the Palace, I saw that most of the flooring and one side of the tank had been opened up. Green cooling fluids once contained somewhere within the tank had been drained and were being stored in 2 liter Diet Coke bottles around what remained of the salon floor. I positioned myself on the far side of the salon and watched silently. Soon enough I was pressed into service.

As Dale balanced the front of the tank on his toes, he drained water from the far side where the water was fed into the tank. The area where he could tip the tank with his toes and still reach to hold the vessel catching the water only allowed a plastic cup to fit. He’d pour water into the cup then dump it into a water bottle with a funnel attached. I was commissioned to dump the reclaimed water. The tank holds 11 gallons. Watching his hands shake as he very carefully, poured the water from the little plastic cup through the funnel into the 1 liter water bottle that he had balanced precisely on the very tank he was emptying, I calculated it out with my new math skills and grabbed a big bowl. The chances of the water spilling or his toes being crushed were astronomical.

He used this method to empty enough water out to where he could lift the tank and then dumped some more into the bilge. (I’m still not convinced that all of the holes in the bottom of the boat lead to the bilge that has the pump. It seemed he dumped quite a bit of water into the bilge but I never heard the bilge pump come on.) Finally, he determined that enough had been removed so that we could lift it up and out of the boat. I was directed to go top side and grab one side of the tank while he climbed the stairs holding the other side. I was directed not to tip the tank. Considering the angles involved, I just laughed. Believe it or not, we got the tank up the stairs, off the boat, onto the dock and finally onto a nearby dockbox where he could remove the remaining pieces and parts that were required to connect the new tank without any noticeable spills. This was a good time to switch the laundry.

The next time I descended the stairs, the new tank was out of its box and being positioned into the space. There was a fair amount of salty dog sailor speak coaxing the tank into place but soon enough he was tinkering with various wrenches, screwdrivers and scooping up mounds of wet paper towels.

Next we had an Easter Egg Hunt for the cup of screws he had stowed away. Back when he first disassembled the settee, he dutifully saved each and every one of the screws in a little cup. When we decided to go sailing with MTNest, he secured them in a very safe place where they wouldn’t fall and where we would never be able to find them again. After much searching, they were finally located in a small cupboard I use for canned butter and packaged milk. Don’t ask; it’s just where they were.

After that, it was just a matter of replacing the floor boards, rebuilding the settee and replacing the cushions. By the time he was done with his task, I was done with mine and it only took us most of the day to accomplish them.

Roosevelt Roads
Puerto Rico
18.14.018N
65.37.582W

We picked up a car and started our errands for the week. We picked up the jib and dinghy cover from the sail loft. Dale sent off a FedEx package. We dropped by OfficeMax to replace a cardboard box with a plastic one and made the mistake of picking up a computer game. We headed to WalMart to look for a replacement bicycle pump (ours was liberated while we were gone) and Dale wanted a couple more barbeque brushes. We did a little grocery shopping to replace our fresh veggies and Diet Coke, then started looking for an optical shop to replace a broken frame on a pair of glasses of mine. After a couple of stops, we finally found one that selected a smaller set of frames and then reground the lens to fit. At least now I have a another set in case of emergency. While we were waiting for the glasses, we killed some time by going through a video rental store. They were having a sale on all of their previously seen movies, so we picked up a couple. We watched one this evening. I’m glad we didn’t pay more than a couple of bucks for it. It was so bad, I’m embarrassed to tell you the name of it.

Later I dug out the computer game and started playing. I should have known that it was a mistake to buy it. I didn’t go to bed until 1:30am; my math skills are a little better though.

Roosevelt Roads
Puerto Rico
18.14.018N
65.37.582W

While the moon was still high in the sky, we retrieved our anchor and headed away from St. Thomas about 6:25 am. The Queen Mary II was resting just outside of the entrance to St. Thomas harbor as she appeared to be too large to negotiate the channel. Four other cruise ships were vying for position in the line up to enter in and take their place along the dock.

It was a pretty straight forward motor on our return to Puerto Rico and we called ahead to file our float plan to enter Ensenada Honda at Roosevelt Roads. We tied up and checked in with the office and learned that our hot water tank had finally arrived. We also learned that officially the bowling alley had closed on the 31st of December as had everything else, including the gym, marina mini-mart and gas station. Unofficially, they are still waiting to find out if they would open up again in a week or two. The marina itself is in a quasi-closed operation. We had paid a month in advance and had no problem in returning. However the new procedures are to report to the base security office in person to file your float plan to secure access to the marina. We spoke to Hector, the marina manager and he gave us permission to use the marina’s internet connection since we have our own computer and only need the line.

We washed off the boat, connected the electricty and water then collapsed into bed for a nap. We were both exhausted. Regardless of how uneventful the sail was, it still took the better part of the day to return and as I’ve said many times before, fresh air will kill you.