Ponce, PR
17.57.881N
66.37.043W
Once again we rose with the sun to make our way through the reefs and on to Ponce. We entered the harbor to find that Romance and Nicolini, who had traveled with us from Luperon, had arrived before us. Nicolini must have passed us while we were in Gilligan's Island, as we had left them in Boqueron.
We each took our turn at the fuel docks and then took slips. Roger and Mike were impressed that I was at the helm not only when we pulled into the fuel pier, but also when we pulled into the slip. All of the women are at the helm during our anchoring exploits and we all stand our own watches, but we see don't see the ladies at the helm pulling into slips very often. Dale and I started off with me at the helm as a safety measure in the event something happened to him, I could bring the boat in myself if I had to. Then, we attended a seminar that Tom Neale presented in which he encouraged the women to be the helmspersons, as the men had the upper body strength to fend off in emergency situations and manhandle spring lines as necessary. This we knew to be true, so we've just sort of left it that way. Anyway, I take acknowledgment when I can get it and today they both had kind words that I appreciated.
The three boats split the cost of renting a minivan and took off to downtown Ponce to see the sights. We found the art museum that DocNoMore wanted to tour. Unfortunately, it was half an hour before closing and they didn't want to purchase the admission for just half an hour. We also found the cathedral that MTNest wanted to see but it was closed, so . . . we went to Walmart. There were lots of little things that we all needed and this was the store to fill the bill.
We finished off the day by walking along the boardwalk outside of the Yacht Club to a Cuban restaurant not far away. We all enjoyed our dinners but the plantains, whether mashed, fried, or sculpted into a bowl for stews, where not making any points with our group.
Tomorrow we're all headed to visit the caves in the center of the island. In the 3 years we lived here previously, I don't recall anything about sightseeing caves. This should be fun.
Thursday, February 02, 2006
Gilligan's Island, PR
17.56.837N
66.52.279W
We explored what there was of Gilligan's Island today. Actually, it's just a small island that the park service has turned into picnic areas. It does somewhat resemble the island depicted in the 70's TV show and apparently at one time there was a fisherman than frequented the area that looked like Bob Denver. The best part was snorkeling up one of the mangrove canals and drifting back through another one. When we were done, we had circled the interior of the island. It was educational to see how mangroves grow from the bottom up. The park ranger had given us the heads up last evening about getting there early, so there were lots of small fish to see and of course the ever present barracuda, since we had arrived before the tourist ferries came over and the water was churned up by the vacationers.
We returned and set about cleaning the Palace's hull. Dale and Mike used the hooka to scrape the barnacles and I went behind them with a brush getting the loose dirt. Apparently, there is a remora that has taken a liking to our keel. No matter how much they tried to shoo him away, he was determined to stick around (no pun intended.) I certainly hope this isn't one of the ones that gathered around us in Cambridge Cay and followed us down. If it is, he's come a long way.
We ended the day with a pot luck on DocNoMore and played a couple of rounds of dominos. Since all of the guys were exhausted, we called it an early night.
At first light tomorrow morning, we'll head off to Ponce. The wind that was predicted to stay light until the weekend, has already picked up. Hopefully, this only means that it will be a quick and easy sail.
17.56.837N
66.52.279W
We explored what there was of Gilligan's Island today. Actually, it's just a small island that the park service has turned into picnic areas. It does somewhat resemble the island depicted in the 70's TV show and apparently at one time there was a fisherman than frequented the area that looked like Bob Denver. The best part was snorkeling up one of the mangrove canals and drifting back through another one. When we were done, we had circled the interior of the island. It was educational to see how mangroves grow from the bottom up. The park ranger had given us the heads up last evening about getting there early, so there were lots of small fish to see and of course the ever present barracuda, since we had arrived before the tourist ferries came over and the water was churned up by the vacationers.
We returned and set about cleaning the Palace's hull. Dale and Mike used the hooka to scrape the barnacles and I went behind them with a brush getting the loose dirt. Apparently, there is a remora that has taken a liking to our keel. No matter how much they tried to shoo him away, he was determined to stick around (no pun intended.) I certainly hope this isn't one of the ones that gathered around us in Cambridge Cay and followed us down. If it is, he's come a long way.
We ended the day with a pot luck on DocNoMore and played a couple of rounds of dominos. Since all of the guys were exhausted, we called it an early night.
At first light tomorrow morning, we'll head off to Ponce. The wind that was predicted to stay light until the weekend, has already picked up. Hopefully, this only means that it will be a quick and easy sail.
Wednesday, February 01, 2006
Gilligan's Island, PR
17.56.837N
66.52.279W
We rose with the sun this morning and after maneuvering our way through the reefs, hoisted sail and turned off the motor. We were the purists in the group and sailed the rest of the trip averaging about 4.5 kts upwind out to the deep water and tacking back in to the reefs along this coast. The two catamarans have a hard time pointing into the wind so they powered their way through to Gilligan's island arriving a whopping 2 hours before us. We probably had a lot more fun.
Once anchored, Dale busied himself cleaning the refrigerator strainer as the refrigerator kept overheating and tripping the circuit. Everything is working beautifully now.
He also dove in to check the bottom of the boat. When we left Luperon, we were told that anything more than a couple of weeks there, you needed to have your bottom cleaned. I have been scrubbing the bottom with a brush the first of each month to try to keep ahead of any serious incrustation. When we left, we could see that we had some growth along the waterline on the side that faces the sun, as well as a plethora of small barnacles on the bottom when the boat rocked. He resurfaced and said that tomorrow we'll be digging out the hooka to clean the bottom as it was worse than he had anticipated.
In case you wondering, a hooka is a diving apparatus that pumps air down to two divers without the need to carry tanks on your back. We can dive to about 40' for sightseeing as long as we carry the battery that powers it in our dinghy above us. We do have to be careful in some of the islands, as it is unlawful to fish using a hooka and it is up to us to prove that we weren't using it unlawfully.
Tomorrow we plan on joining the other two boat crews to explore Gilligan's Island in the morning and snorkel the small lagoon in front of it prior to the tourist boat arriving at 10:30. Then we'll head back to the Palace to scrape her bottom.
17.56.837N
66.52.279W
We rose with the sun this morning and after maneuvering our way through the reefs, hoisted sail and turned off the motor. We were the purists in the group and sailed the rest of the trip averaging about 4.5 kts upwind out to the deep water and tacking back in to the reefs along this coast. The two catamarans have a hard time pointing into the wind so they powered their way through to Gilligan's island arriving a whopping 2 hours before us. We probably had a lot more fun.
Once anchored, Dale busied himself cleaning the refrigerator strainer as the refrigerator kept overheating and tripping the circuit. Everything is working beautifully now.
He also dove in to check the bottom of the boat. When we left Luperon, we were told that anything more than a couple of weeks there, you needed to have your bottom cleaned. I have been scrubbing the bottom with a brush the first of each month to try to keep ahead of any serious incrustation. When we left, we could see that we had some growth along the waterline on the side that faces the sun, as well as a plethora of small barnacles on the bottom when the boat rocked. He resurfaced and said that tomorrow we'll be digging out the hooka to clean the bottom as it was worse than he had anticipated.
In case you wondering, a hooka is a diving apparatus that pumps air down to two divers without the need to carry tanks on your back. We can dive to about 40' for sightseeing as long as we carry the battery that powers it in our dinghy above us. We do have to be careful in some of the islands, as it is unlawful to fish using a hooka and it is up to us to prove that we weren't using it unlawfully.
Tomorrow we plan on joining the other two boat crews to explore Gilligan's Island in the morning and snorkel the small lagoon in front of it prior to the tourist boat arriving at 10:30. Then we'll head back to the Palace to scrape her bottom.
Tuesday, January 31, 2006
Cabo Rojo, PR
17.56.369N
67.11.846W
Pam & Charlie hailed us early this morning to let us know they were making their move north. We said our goodbyes and wished them well.
We made a dinghy ride into town to upload the internet posts and returned to ready the Palace for pre-staging to Cabo Rojo. We hoisted anchor about 2:30 pm and sailed most of the way.
After leaving Boqueron Harbor we looked back and witnessed for ourselves the thunderstorms VanSant describes in his cruising book. They build up over the land and then drift northwest out over the Mona Passage. An artist that we met in Boqueron told us that it rarely rains there. The rain clouds just pass overhead and move out to sea. When we called later to speak with Moon Goddess (who had elected to stay there for a few more days), it was raining.
Another observation that we made is that the mast isn't creaking as much. During the time that we were sailing across the Mona and things were quiet during the night, we heard a new creaking sound. We tracked it down and discovered that it was emanating from the mast (or at least the compression post vibrated when we heard the creaking sound. Dale tighted down the mast bolts that came through to the salon side and one of the pieces of standing rigging. So far the sound seems to have subsided.
Tonight finds us tucked just below the Cabo Rojo Lighthouse, a beautiful structure that is actually functional. It's refreshing to find navigational aids that work.
Tomorrow we head to Gilligan's Island. We were trying to hum the tune for Mike so that he could play it tomorrow at sunset on his sax but then Dale up and sang the entire song for him; word for word. Just when I thought he was under control, he lets out with one of his quirks. Oh well, I guess his real personality was bound to come out sooner or later.
17.56.369N
67.11.846W
Pam & Charlie hailed us early this morning to let us know they were making their move north. We said our goodbyes and wished them well.
We made a dinghy ride into town to upload the internet posts and returned to ready the Palace for pre-staging to Cabo Rojo. We hoisted anchor about 2:30 pm and sailed most of the way.
After leaving Boqueron Harbor we looked back and witnessed for ourselves the thunderstorms VanSant describes in his cruising book. They build up over the land and then drift northwest out over the Mona Passage. An artist that we met in Boqueron told us that it rarely rains there. The rain clouds just pass overhead and move out to sea. When we called later to speak with Moon Goddess (who had elected to stay there for a few more days), it was raining.
Another observation that we made is that the mast isn't creaking as much. During the time that we were sailing across the Mona and things were quiet during the night, we heard a new creaking sound. We tracked it down and discovered that it was emanating from the mast (or at least the compression post vibrated when we heard the creaking sound. Dale tighted down the mast bolts that came through to the salon side and one of the pieces of standing rigging. So far the sound seems to have subsided.
Tonight finds us tucked just below the Cabo Rojo Lighthouse, a beautiful structure that is actually functional. It's refreshing to find navigational aids that work.
Tomorrow we head to Gilligan's Island. We were trying to hum the tune for Mike so that he could play it tomorrow at sunset on his sax but then Dale up and sang the entire song for him; word for word. Just when I thought he was under control, he lets out with one of his quirks. Oh well, I guess his real personality was bound to come out sooner or later.
Monday, January 30, 2006
Boqueron, PR
18.01.299N
67.10.621W
We searched out the internet cafe this morning. The crews from DocNoMore and MTNest joined us and we all hiked to where we thought we might be able to catch a bus to do some exploring. Unfortunately, after getting there, we learned that the buses only run every three to four hours at this end of the island. We did find a panaderia where we purchased the fresh bread I remember so well.
On our way back, we found a pizzeria where we ordered a couple of calzones. What? You've never heard of authentic Puerto Rican calzones? Well, these were good. Particularly when you haven't had one in a while. I tried making them on the boat but they turned out mostly bread. I'll continue to work on my cooking skills the further down island we go and the more expensive eating out becomes (the Luperon marina spoiled us with a special entre each day at happy hour.)
We finished the day playing Dominos with DocNoMore and MTNest. I really enjoyed that. I have either developed a compulsion to keep linear things lined up or its manifesting itself more aggressively now. Everyone had fun of me trying to keep the dominos straight on a boat. (I have a habit of arranging my french fries according to size too but don't tell anyone; its probably a symptom of some psychological malady.)
The wind is starting to calm down today and it supposed to do so again tomorrow. We plan on prestaging to Caba Rojo tomorrow afternoon and then on to Gilligan's Island on Wednesday.
18.01.299N
67.10.621W
We searched out the internet cafe this morning. The crews from DocNoMore and MTNest joined us and we all hiked to where we thought we might be able to catch a bus to do some exploring. Unfortunately, after getting there, we learned that the buses only run every three to four hours at this end of the island. We did find a panaderia where we purchased the fresh bread I remember so well.
On our way back, we found a pizzeria where we ordered a couple of calzones. What? You've never heard of authentic Puerto Rican calzones? Well, these were good. Particularly when you haven't had one in a while. I tried making them on the boat but they turned out mostly bread. I'll continue to work on my cooking skills the further down island we go and the more expensive eating out becomes (the Luperon marina spoiled us with a special entre each day at happy hour.)
We finished the day playing Dominos with DocNoMore and MTNest. I really enjoyed that. I have either developed a compulsion to keep linear things lined up or its manifesting itself more aggressively now. Everyone had fun of me trying to keep the dominos straight on a boat. (I have a habit of arranging my french fries according to size too but don't tell anyone; its probably a symptom of some psychological malady.)
The wind is starting to calm down today and it supposed to do so again tomorrow. We plan on prestaging to Caba Rojo tomorrow afternoon and then on to Gilligan's Island on Wednesday.
Sunday, January 29, 2006
Boqueron, PR
18.01.299N
67.10.621W
For us, it was a quiet day today. Darby came by to tell us how her cat had gone missing during the night. She surmised that the cat likes to sit in a port hole watching the world go by and must have fallen out during one of the more aggressive rolls (it doesn't wear its kitty lifevest when its inside.) Naturally she was upset and she and Gate searched not only the boat and its surrounding area but also went into town to search the shoreline. Incredibly, the cat was sitting a few feet from the dinghy dock by the telephones. It's a good thing the tide was coming in as it's a good 1/4 mile to the shore from where we are anchored. One life down, 8 to go.
We all joined up on Pam & Charlie's catamaran to study the islands to the south. They were very helpful in indicating where good anchorages and marinas were and very candid about the crime on the various islands. When you hear about the various dinghy thefts and boardings for money in such a concise fashion, it causes you to pause and reconsider the decision to cruise. Then I thought about the number of boats cruising, the number of incidents of crime, the safety and security measures we've taken, considered the percentages of it actually happening to us, then figured that we'd just be extra cautious or bypass those areas we've heard about and continue on our adventure. It's not like Dale is about to turn around and go back. Besides, I have pepper spray and I'm not afraid to use it! I guess that means I'd better find it.
We're still rolling considerably at anchor today so we went into town to get off the boat for a while. We walked down the beach in front of cabanas that appear to have been left over from when the Army was here. Dale thinks he remembers from our Navy days in Puerto Rico that MWR (Morale, Welfare and Recreation) had cabanas that could be rented out. Well, they're still here and the park system is still renting them out. We met a couple from New York that come here for a couple of months each year for their vacation. They are right on the beach and something to keep in mind for future vacations.
We met up with crews from BlueStar, MTNest and Moon Goddess later for dinner. We learned that Moon Goddess' tender was damaged at the dinghy dock by a larger ski boat. We're not sure of the chronology of the events but it is evident that it fouled their prop on Moon Goddess' aft anchor line and sliced a gash in in their pontoon. (Due to the incoming swells, we would tie up to the dock and then throw out an aft anchor to keep us in place so as not to crash into the dock itself.) We're not sure if this all happened before or after the ski boat slammed into the docks tearing the end portion to pieces. Moon Goddess returned to find their anchor sitting on what remained of the end portion of the dock and 8' missing from their anchor line. Someone had moved their boat further down the dock to keep it from damaging further on the splinters and exposed bolts remaining.
We ran into Gate & Darby from Nicolino as we were leaving. They were delighted to have their cat back and Joe & Diane decided to pair off with them to go dancing the night away; what else can you do after day like theirs? The rest of us returned to our boats to turn in early. We're definitely cruisers now. Up with the sun; down with the sun and if you have a bad day, go dancing.
18.01.299N
67.10.621W
For us, it was a quiet day today. Darby came by to tell us how her cat had gone missing during the night. She surmised that the cat likes to sit in a port hole watching the world go by and must have fallen out during one of the more aggressive rolls (it doesn't wear its kitty lifevest when its inside.) Naturally she was upset and she and Gate searched not only the boat and its surrounding area but also went into town to search the shoreline. Incredibly, the cat was sitting a few feet from the dinghy dock by the telephones. It's a good thing the tide was coming in as it's a good 1/4 mile to the shore from where we are anchored. One life down, 8 to go.
We all joined up on Pam & Charlie's catamaran to study the islands to the south. They were very helpful in indicating where good anchorages and marinas were and very candid about the crime on the various islands. When you hear about the various dinghy thefts and boardings for money in such a concise fashion, it causes you to pause and reconsider the decision to cruise. Then I thought about the number of boats cruising, the number of incidents of crime, the safety and security measures we've taken, considered the percentages of it actually happening to us, then figured that we'd just be extra cautious or bypass those areas we've heard about and continue on our adventure. It's not like Dale is about to turn around and go back. Besides, I have pepper spray and I'm not afraid to use it! I guess that means I'd better find it.
We're still rolling considerably at anchor today so we went into town to get off the boat for a while. We walked down the beach in front of cabanas that appear to have been left over from when the Army was here. Dale thinks he remembers from our Navy days in Puerto Rico that MWR (Morale, Welfare and Recreation) had cabanas that could be rented out. Well, they're still here and the park system is still renting them out. We met a couple from New York that come here for a couple of months each year for their vacation. They are right on the beach and something to keep in mind for future vacations.
We met up with crews from BlueStar, MTNest and Moon Goddess later for dinner. We learned that Moon Goddess' tender was damaged at the dinghy dock by a larger ski boat. We're not sure of the chronology of the events but it is evident that it fouled their prop on Moon Goddess' aft anchor line and sliced a gash in in their pontoon. (Due to the incoming swells, we would tie up to the dock and then throw out an aft anchor to keep us in place so as not to crash into the dock itself.) We're not sure if this all happened before or after the ski boat slammed into the docks tearing the end portion to pieces. Moon Goddess returned to find their anchor sitting on what remained of the end portion of the dock and 8' missing from their anchor line. Someone had moved their boat further down the dock to keep it from damaging further on the splinters and exposed bolts remaining.
We ran into Gate & Darby from Nicolino as we were leaving. They were delighted to have their cat back and Joe & Diane decided to pair off with them to go dancing the night away; what else can you do after day like theirs? The rest of us returned to our boats to turn in early. We're definitely cruisers now. Up with the sun; down with the sun and if you have a bad day, go dancing.
Saturday, January 28, 2006
Boqueron, PR
18.01.299N
67.10.621W
Well the weather window definitely slammed shut today with winds in the anchorage at 20 kts and the swell rolling us from side to side. We've heard that the waves/swell in the Mona are now approaching 15' and the Coast Guard is broadcasting a lookout for a small sailboat overdue to arrive and a surfboard last seen heading out to sea.
We saw Darby leaving s/v Nicolino heading for town in her dinghy when it appeared to stall out. She tugged and tugged on the engine motor crank but to no avail. Dale and I jumped in ours and headed her way. When we got up to her, she threw her arms up in the air in frustration and promptly fell overboard. We grabbed her dinghy and held it for her as she crawled back in. Once back in the boat, she explained what she had done and Dale teased her that she needed to connect the fuel line to the engine to get anywhere (she had connected one end to the fuel tank but not the other end). I guess the reason I mention this at all is that it reminded me of something I had done in the Bahamas. Geri and I, being military wives, are independent women and had taken off into Marsh Harbor on our own. However, on our way back, we couldn't get the engine to start. I tugged and tugged on the crank until I was red in the face. A gentleman walked by and took pity on us and reminded me that you need to turn the switch on before anything will engage. Its all in the details!
Dale & I met up with Mike & Terri (MTNest) and walked around the little seaside town of Boqueron. It's a hopping place during the weekends, likened to Key West on Spring Break stateside. The music blared quite late into the night but we were too tired to notice for very long. Eventually we met up with Roger & Elaine (Doc-No-More) and sat outside the local establishments drinking sodas and watching the crowds pass by.
Dale and the guys headed back to the boats and gathered our information for checking in. Gate & Darby (Nicolino) told us that they had only called in using the Culebra telephone number (Culebra is an entirely different island but if it worked, we'd use it). Unfortunately, Culebra instructed us to call the local number. However, that was all it took. The guys passed the telephone around and within an hour, we were all checked in and administratively pure.
Later in the evening, Pam, Charlie and James (their crew) joined us where we had staked out a table. Then during the course of the evening, we would dart off in various directions for local delectables being sold on the street. Of course, we touted the flavors of "pinchos" and encouraged everyone to try them (barbequed meat on a stick). Pam & Charlie started telling us of their experiences down island and when we started taking notes (literally) they invited all of us over to their boat to go island by island down the chain and they would tell us whether, in their opinion, it was worth going to, crime in the area, cost, etc. We all promised to meet tomorrow and headed back to our boats.
I guess we've outgrown Spring Break. We were there for the food and what shopping bargains we could find (none).
18.01.299N
67.10.621W
Well the weather window definitely slammed shut today with winds in the anchorage at 20 kts and the swell rolling us from side to side. We've heard that the waves/swell in the Mona are now approaching 15' and the Coast Guard is broadcasting a lookout for a small sailboat overdue to arrive and a surfboard last seen heading out to sea.
We saw Darby leaving s/v Nicolino heading for town in her dinghy when it appeared to stall out. She tugged and tugged on the engine motor crank but to no avail. Dale and I jumped in ours and headed her way. When we got up to her, she threw her arms up in the air in frustration and promptly fell overboard. We grabbed her dinghy and held it for her as she crawled back in. Once back in the boat, she explained what she had done and Dale teased her that she needed to connect the fuel line to the engine to get anywhere (she had connected one end to the fuel tank but not the other end). I guess the reason I mention this at all is that it reminded me of something I had done in the Bahamas. Geri and I, being military wives, are independent women and had taken off into Marsh Harbor on our own. However, on our way back, we couldn't get the engine to start. I tugged and tugged on the crank until I was red in the face. A gentleman walked by and took pity on us and reminded me that you need to turn the switch on before anything will engage. Its all in the details!
Dale & I met up with Mike & Terri (MTNest) and walked around the little seaside town of Boqueron. It's a hopping place during the weekends, likened to Key West on Spring Break stateside. The music blared quite late into the night but we were too tired to notice for very long. Eventually we met up with Roger & Elaine (Doc-No-More) and sat outside the local establishments drinking sodas and watching the crowds pass by.
Dale and the guys headed back to the boats and gathered our information for checking in. Gate & Darby (Nicolino) told us that they had only called in using the Culebra telephone number (Culebra is an entirely different island but if it worked, we'd use it). Unfortunately, Culebra instructed us to call the local number. However, that was all it took. The guys passed the telephone around and within an hour, we were all checked in and administratively pure.
Later in the evening, Pam, Charlie and James (their crew) joined us where we had staked out a table. Then during the course of the evening, we would dart off in various directions for local delectables being sold on the street. Of course, we touted the flavors of "pinchos" and encouraged everyone to try them (barbequed meat on a stick). Pam & Charlie started telling us of their experiences down island and when we started taking notes (literally) they invited all of us over to their boat to go island by island down the chain and they would tell us whether, in their opinion, it was worth going to, crime in the area, cost, etc. We all promised to meet tomorrow and headed back to our boats.
I guess we've outgrown Spring Break. We were there for the food and what shopping bargains we could find (none).
Friday, January 27, 2006
Boqueron, Puerto Rico
18.01.299N
67.10.621W
Land Ho! Puerto Rico! As soon as the sun set yesterday, you could see the glow from Puerto Rico on the horizon.
As you may recall from yesterday's posting, we were making pretty good time on our transit from the Dominican Republic to Puerto Rico. In fact, we were doing so well that we needed to slow down. Do you have any idea how difficult it is to slow a boat down when you're traveling too fast? First, we turned off the engine. Then we reefed the jib. Then we reefed the main (we began to wonder whether it would or not with the pucker at the bottom). Then we reefed the jib again and pulled the main in completely. Then the wind died down and we had to let everything back out again. When the wind finally quit all together, we pulled everything in and turned on the engine running at 1000 RPM's and still doing about 3.5-4 kts. Then the tide started pushing us to shore. At that point, the sun was starting to rise so we kept on going. We set our anchor at 7:45 am, about as exact to 48 hours as you could get.
We were the first into the harbor and spotted a large catamaran in the anchorage. We circled around and then hailed Blue Star to wake up Pam & Charlie. We had first met them 3 years ago when they were in Jacksonville tied up to a slip just down from our friends, Fred & Geri. They've been in Trinidad/Tobago and other southern islands for the past 3 years and are on their way back to Jacksonville to replenish the cruising kitty.
Two of the boats traveling with us elected not to slow down but to continue on to Ponce further down the southern side of Puerto Rico. Four of us entered into Boqueron within 2 hours of each other; the fifth, a couple of hours after that; and finally Moon Goddess came in just before sundown and promptly ran aground. They backed off without difficulty and were able to anchor not far from us.
After a quick chat with Pam & Charlie, we hit the rack to make up for the missed sleep. We spent a quiet afternoon, washing the salt off the boat, putting our transiting gear away, and taking much needed showers ourselves. Except for Moon Goddess, who couldn't resist the throbbing beat of the local music establishments, the rest of us elected to stay on our respective boats and call it an early night.
Tomorrow we'll figure out how to check in. The cruising guides say its just a matter of calling in but others believe that since 9/11, it is necessary to physically go over to Mayaguez to check in. We'll sort it out in the morning.
18.01.299N
67.10.621W
Land Ho! Puerto Rico! As soon as the sun set yesterday, you could see the glow from Puerto Rico on the horizon.
As you may recall from yesterday's posting, we were making pretty good time on our transit from the Dominican Republic to Puerto Rico. In fact, we were doing so well that we needed to slow down. Do you have any idea how difficult it is to slow a boat down when you're traveling too fast? First, we turned off the engine. Then we reefed the jib. Then we reefed the main (we began to wonder whether it would or not with the pucker at the bottom). Then we reefed the jib again and pulled the main in completely. Then the wind died down and we had to let everything back out again. When the wind finally quit all together, we pulled everything in and turned on the engine running at 1000 RPM's and still doing about 3.5-4 kts. Then the tide started pushing us to shore. At that point, the sun was starting to rise so we kept on going. We set our anchor at 7:45 am, about as exact to 48 hours as you could get.
We were the first into the harbor and spotted a large catamaran in the anchorage. We circled around and then hailed Blue Star to wake up Pam & Charlie. We had first met them 3 years ago when they were in Jacksonville tied up to a slip just down from our friends, Fred & Geri. They've been in Trinidad/Tobago and other southern islands for the past 3 years and are on their way back to Jacksonville to replenish the cruising kitty.
Two of the boats traveling with us elected not to slow down but to continue on to Ponce further down the southern side of Puerto Rico. Four of us entered into Boqueron within 2 hours of each other; the fifth, a couple of hours after that; and finally Moon Goddess came in just before sundown and promptly ran aground. They backed off without difficulty and were able to anchor not far from us.
After a quick chat with Pam & Charlie, we hit the rack to make up for the missed sleep. We spent a quiet afternoon, washing the salt off the boat, putting our transiting gear away, and taking much needed showers ourselves. Except for Moon Goddess, who couldn't resist the throbbing beat of the local music establishments, the rest of us elected to stay on our respective boats and call it an early night.
Tomorrow we'll figure out how to check in. The cruising guides say its just a matter of calling in but others believe that since 9/11, it is necessary to physically go over to Mayaguez to check in. We'll sort it out in the morning.
Thursday, January 26, 2006
01/26/2006
East Coast of the Dominican Republic
It was a quiet night and thankfully nothing of interest happened; the main sail is still holding; hopefully until we can get to Fajardo where we know there is a good sail repair facility. Dale and I alternate 3 hours on, 3 hours off watches. We try to nap as much as we can in our off hours during the day so that we can stay alert during the night, so I was proud to be able to tell Roger when he radioed about the bright light that had started him when he turned around, was just a light coming from shore without a touch of my normal panic whenever there's even the most remote possibility of a freighter in our vicinity.
We finally made it to the hourglass shoals which seemed to take forever. The currents in this area kept shoving us north and for a period, we seemed to be making a circle around our waypoint without getting any closer to it. We are officially in the Mona Passage now. Thank God its quiet. For as far as we can see, the Mona is calm.
We have been doing better than we anticipated time wise and estimate that at the rate we're traveling, we'll arrive in Puerto Rico about 1 or 2 am. We prefer to enter a new harbor in the daylight, so we're going to turn off the engine and sail from here on.
Seven of the eight boats that took off from Luperon yesterday are now scattered along the route for about 20 miles. Moon Goddess is falling further and further behind; we're guessing that she's 50 miles behind us. We worry that she'll not make it across the Mona before the window closes.
East Coast of the Dominican Republic
It was a quiet night and thankfully nothing of interest happened; the main sail is still holding; hopefully until we can get to Fajardo where we know there is a good sail repair facility. Dale and I alternate 3 hours on, 3 hours off watches. We try to nap as much as we can in our off hours during the day so that we can stay alert during the night, so I was proud to be able to tell Roger when he radioed about the bright light that had started him when he turned around, was just a light coming from shore without a touch of my normal panic whenever there's even the most remote possibility of a freighter in our vicinity.
We finally made it to the hourglass shoals which seemed to take forever. The currents in this area kept shoving us north and for a period, we seemed to be making a circle around our waypoint without getting any closer to it. We are officially in the Mona Passage now. Thank God its quiet. For as far as we can see, the Mona is calm.
We have been doing better than we anticipated time wise and estimate that at the rate we're traveling, we'll arrive in Puerto Rico about 1 or 2 am. We prefer to enter a new harbor in the daylight, so we're going to turn off the engine and sail from here on.
Seven of the eight boats that took off from Luperon yesterday are now scattered along the route for about 20 miles. Moon Goddess is falling further and further behind; we're guessing that she's 50 miles behind us. We worry that she'll not make it across the Mona before the window closes.
Wednesday, January 25, 2006
North Coast of Dominican Republic
19.39.673 N
69.52.735W
We kept saying we weren't leaving, right up until we hoisted anchor at 7am and left. What can I tell you? When we went to bed, the wind finally died down and the wind generator did not come back on for the remainder of the night. This morning we got up at 5:30 and pulled up the weather information; no change; a window of favorable conditions for about 48 hours.
We saw signs of everyone else getting up and making preparations but no movements. Edgar over on Nine-Twenty-Four radioed to let us know that his brother called from Puerto Rico to say that they were predicting 12' waves in the Mona Passage by Saturday; they weren't going. We knew about this and reminded him that the plan was to be in by morning on Friday. Gate over on Nicolino asked that we call them when we went out and let them know what the sea state was. Still no one made a move. It was going on 7am, the Commandante had not appeared. Everyone kept asking us what we were going to do. Finally, we said let's get this over with! We'll go out, if it's bad, we'll come back in.
Obviously, it wasn't that bad. The sea was calmer than the first time we tried a week ago and we knew that as soon as we cleared the point, it would calm down even further. Which it did. We've motorsailed all day and have made good time. We've learned that the Van Sant cruising guide was right about the cape effects but we haven't hugged the shore as closely as he suggested and have been doing quite well. We just head towards shore until the seas and wind subside a bit and then tack back and forth until we get around the point. So far, this has paid off for us since we point higher than our catamaran buddies and use the extra wind to our advantage.
We've also noticed that our main sail is starting to show a pucker at the bottom of the sail which would indicate that the sail needs to be hoisted up. This probably means that my attachment repair is failing and it is starting to fall. Since we need our sails for as long as possible, we have elected to tack as quickly as we can until it either completely fails and collapses, or the winds subside to the point where we can try to roll it back in.
Hispanola is a massive island. Sailing along its northern shores showed us more of its natural beauty. The subtropical greens of its mountains reached down to the cliffs that bordered the Atlantic Ocean along this shore. We saw several mansions along this coastline that we imagined must belong to the Dominican baseball players that come to the US to play professionally. Several areas looked like they might be golf courses overlooking the cliffs but then they could have been meadows simply seen from a distance. It only proved to us that there is much more to see on this beautiful island.
This will be one of the longest passages we've ever made and, of course, through the Mona Passage which takes a full 24 hours to transit by itself.
For background information, the Mona is very much like the Gulf Stream, only wider. It has its own current/currents and with two good sized islands (Puerto Rico on the east; Hispanola on the west) with huge mountains channeling their winds and thunderstorms down and around through the passage. If you don't wait for a favorable weather forecast, you'll get your clock cleaned pretty quick. We've waited for one that predicts less than 15 kts of wind and seas of 4-6'. If anything, wind and seas have been less than what we were expecting. I guess all of those weeks waiting is finally paying off.
19.39.673 N
69.52.735W
We kept saying we weren't leaving, right up until we hoisted anchor at 7am and left. What can I tell you? When we went to bed, the wind finally died down and the wind generator did not come back on for the remainder of the night. This morning we got up at 5:30 and pulled up the weather information; no change; a window of favorable conditions for about 48 hours.
We saw signs of everyone else getting up and making preparations but no movements. Edgar over on Nine-Twenty-Four radioed to let us know that his brother called from Puerto Rico to say that they were predicting 12' waves in the Mona Passage by Saturday; they weren't going. We knew about this and reminded him that the plan was to be in by morning on Friday. Gate over on Nicolino asked that we call them when we went out and let them know what the sea state was. Still no one made a move. It was going on 7am, the Commandante had not appeared. Everyone kept asking us what we were going to do. Finally, we said let's get this over with! We'll go out, if it's bad, we'll come back in.
Obviously, it wasn't that bad. The sea was calmer than the first time we tried a week ago and we knew that as soon as we cleared the point, it would calm down even further. Which it did. We've motorsailed all day and have made good time. We've learned that the Van Sant cruising guide was right about the cape effects but we haven't hugged the shore as closely as he suggested and have been doing quite well. We just head towards shore until the seas and wind subside a bit and then tack back and forth until we get around the point. So far, this has paid off for us since we point higher than our catamaran buddies and use the extra wind to our advantage.
We've also noticed that our main sail is starting to show a pucker at the bottom of the sail which would indicate that the sail needs to be hoisted up. This probably means that my attachment repair is failing and it is starting to fall. Since we need our sails for as long as possible, we have elected to tack as quickly as we can until it either completely fails and collapses, or the winds subside to the point where we can try to roll it back in.
Hispanola is a massive island. Sailing along its northern shores showed us more of its natural beauty. The subtropical greens of its mountains reached down to the cliffs that bordered the Atlantic Ocean along this shore. We saw several mansions along this coastline that we imagined must belong to the Dominican baseball players that come to the US to play professionally. Several areas looked like they might be golf courses overlooking the cliffs but then they could have been meadows simply seen from a distance. It only proved to us that there is much more to see on this beautiful island.
This will be one of the longest passages we've ever made and, of course, through the Mona Passage which takes a full 24 hours to transit by itself.
For background information, the Mona is very much like the Gulf Stream, only wider. It has its own current/currents and with two good sized islands (Puerto Rico on the east; Hispanola on the west) with huge mountains channeling their winds and thunderstorms down and around through the passage. If you don't wait for a favorable weather forecast, you'll get your clock cleaned pretty quick. We've waited for one that predicts less than 15 kts of wind and seas of 4-6'. If anything, wind and seas have been less than what we were expecting. I guess all of those weeks waiting is finally paying off.
Tuesday, January 24, 2006
Luperon, DR
19.54.031N
70.56.897W
We started the day listening to the weather reports and checking the various sites for sea states. We determined that we might have another small window of 48 hours to try to make Puerto Rico. After having done this once before, I didn't feel the anticipation that I normally get before a crossing. Still, we went through the motions. We paid our tab at the marina, picked up the laundry, uploaded our posts to this site and visited the Commandante. Apparently, there is a new rule (according to him per US instructions) that all vessels leaving for US ports, ie Puerto Rico, must have an inspection to document that there are no illegal aliens on board 1 hour prior to leaving. OK fine. Since we plan on leaving at 6 am that means they have to be here by 5 am. No problemo he tells us. He gives us a new dispatchio and says he'll visit us in the morning.
We make arrangements to meet later with several other boats besides our little group that are hoping for the same window. However, by the time we meet in the evening, we all notice that the winds have not died down as predicted and still gust to 20kts or better in the harbor. Elaine made the observation that there is no dominant voice in the group to say 'This is what we are all going to do' to make it easier for everyone to blame someone other than themselves for making the decision.
Although we are anxious to leave, Dale & I and Roger & Elaine are leaning more towards not going at this point. We learned from the last time that the winds and waves are a lot more than we bargained for when the winds are still blowing in the harbor. Moon Goddess is hell bent on leaving in the morning. MTNest is cautious but anxious to leave; we'll see what happens.
After all of the back and forth, we returned to the Palace where Dale asks me what I want to do. I tell him that once we go to bed, we should leave the wind generator on. If it starts turning (usually at 10 kts) prior to our departure time, we stay. It's about time for us to go to bed now and it hasn't turned off yet. I don't think we're going anywhere tomorrow.
The next window looks to be in another week. We're going to get pretty good at playing dominos. We're also going to have to start a college fund for the Commandante's new baby and make our dispatchio deposits there.
19.54.031N
70.56.897W
We started the day listening to the weather reports and checking the various sites for sea states. We determined that we might have another small window of 48 hours to try to make Puerto Rico. After having done this once before, I didn't feel the anticipation that I normally get before a crossing. Still, we went through the motions. We paid our tab at the marina, picked up the laundry, uploaded our posts to this site and visited the Commandante. Apparently, there is a new rule (according to him per US instructions) that all vessels leaving for US ports, ie Puerto Rico, must have an inspection to document that there are no illegal aliens on board 1 hour prior to leaving. OK fine. Since we plan on leaving at 6 am that means they have to be here by 5 am. No problemo he tells us. He gives us a new dispatchio and says he'll visit us in the morning.
We make arrangements to meet later with several other boats besides our little group that are hoping for the same window. However, by the time we meet in the evening, we all notice that the winds have not died down as predicted and still gust to 20kts or better in the harbor. Elaine made the observation that there is no dominant voice in the group to say 'This is what we are all going to do' to make it easier for everyone to blame someone other than themselves for making the decision.
Although we are anxious to leave, Dale & I and Roger & Elaine are leaning more towards not going at this point. We learned from the last time that the winds and waves are a lot more than we bargained for when the winds are still blowing in the harbor. Moon Goddess is hell bent on leaving in the morning. MTNest is cautious but anxious to leave; we'll see what happens.
After all of the back and forth, we returned to the Palace where Dale asks me what I want to do. I tell him that once we go to bed, we should leave the wind generator on. If it starts turning (usually at 10 kts) prior to our departure time, we stay. It's about time for us to go to bed now and it hasn't turned off yet. I don't think we're going anywhere tomorrow.
The next window looks to be in another week. We're going to get pretty good at playing dominos. We're also going to have to start a college fund for the Commandante's new baby and make our dispatchio deposits there.
Monday, January 23, 2006
Luperon, DR
19.54.031N
70.56.897W
Again with the wind and rain. At least today it was more wind than rain but still the wind continued to blow 20 kts. with gusts up to 30kts. I noticed another boat had dragged during the night and another that decided to use their riding sail. I'm surprised they haven't used it before now since they were one of the ones dancing like crazy and dragged the first day. My little homemade sail it still hanging in there and doing a fine job.
I started the day making English muffins from scratch. Not bad. Next time I'll make them bigger and let them rise longer. Dale and I had wanted to check e-mail and upload the last 7 posts today but Steve's was closed.
It was our turn to host cocktail hour among our little group, so we swept, mopped, dusted, scrubbed toilets, sinks and finally tucked those items away that have no real place on the boat. We hung my swing from the back arch, rolled up some of the side curtains, added a few throw cushions to the cockpit, took the wheel off and welcomed our friends. The first few minutes were show and tell to those who haven't been on it before and then the rest of the time we talked about everything and nothing. Again, the big topic of conversation was the go, no go decision to be made on Wednesday.
We'll have to go soon or I'll have nothing more to write about.
19.54.031N
70.56.897W
Again with the wind and rain. At least today it was more wind than rain but still the wind continued to blow 20 kts. with gusts up to 30kts. I noticed another boat had dragged during the night and another that decided to use their riding sail. I'm surprised they haven't used it before now since they were one of the ones dancing like crazy and dragged the first day. My little homemade sail it still hanging in there and doing a fine job.
I started the day making English muffins from scratch. Not bad. Next time I'll make them bigger and let them rise longer. Dale and I had wanted to check e-mail and upload the last 7 posts today but Steve's was closed.
It was our turn to host cocktail hour among our little group, so we swept, mopped, dusted, scrubbed toilets, sinks and finally tucked those items away that have no real place on the boat. We hung my swing from the back arch, rolled up some of the side curtains, added a few throw cushions to the cockpit, took the wheel off and welcomed our friends. The first few minutes were show and tell to those who haven't been on it before and then the rest of the time we talked about everything and nothing. Again, the big topic of conversation was the go, no go decision to be made on Wednesday.
We'll have to go soon or I'll have nothing more to write about.
Sunday, January 22, 2006
Luperon, DR
19.54.031N
70.56.897W
Another rainy and windy day. Since we had dinner reservations at Casa de Sol, we decided to forego our trip to the Sunday swap meet/barbeque and save our appetites for dinner.
We spent most of the day reading and tidying up inside. When the wind picked up to 30 kts, we watched as a couple of boats that have been here for months/years? started dragging and offered to assist when other boaters went out to forage in the anchor lockers for secondary anchors to throw out. The only problem is who's going to go out when the wind changes directions to untangle the anchors when they foul and the boats start to drag again? Thankfully, MTNest stayed put as did the rest of our little group.
The rain seemed to abate when the sun went down and we all ventured out in our dinghies (except Joe who's still under the weather) to meet for dinner. The meal was good but the desserts were excellent. Stan, who owns the restaurant, picks up the patrons at the marina and drives them to the restaurant, cooks and entertains was quite the guy. He prepared bananas flambé and pineapple flambé for our desserts with the flourish of a born actor. Then he prepared a coffee liquor that was also flambé d. We tried to tell him that he needs to advertise either on the radio net or by brochure to let the boaters know what his restaurant has to offer. He seemed genuinely interested in our suggestions and we wished him well.
When we got back to the marina, it started to rain again. Of course, by the time we descended the hill and into our dinghies, it was a downpour and we were soaked to the skin when we finally made it back to the Palace.
The main topic on each of our minds has been the tiny window we thought we were going to see this week. Unfortunately, it seems to be disappearing before it ever developed. We'll keep our fingers crossed and hope for the best. Right now, it seems we are in for a few more days of this weather.
19.54.031N
70.56.897W
Another rainy and windy day. Since we had dinner reservations at Casa de Sol, we decided to forego our trip to the Sunday swap meet/barbeque and save our appetites for dinner.
We spent most of the day reading and tidying up inside. When the wind picked up to 30 kts, we watched as a couple of boats that have been here for months/years? started dragging and offered to assist when other boaters went out to forage in the anchor lockers for secondary anchors to throw out. The only problem is who's going to go out when the wind changes directions to untangle the anchors when they foul and the boats start to drag again? Thankfully, MTNest stayed put as did the rest of our little group.
The rain seemed to abate when the sun went down and we all ventured out in our dinghies (except Joe who's still under the weather) to meet for dinner. The meal was good but the desserts were excellent. Stan, who owns the restaurant, picks up the patrons at the marina and drives them to the restaurant, cooks and entertains was quite the guy. He prepared bananas flambé and pineapple flambé for our desserts with the flourish of a born actor. Then he prepared a coffee liquor that was also flambé d. We tried to tell him that he needs to advertise either on the radio net or by brochure to let the boaters know what his restaurant has to offer. He seemed genuinely interested in our suggestions and we wished him well.
When we got back to the marina, it started to rain again. Of course, by the time we descended the hill and into our dinghies, it was a downpour and we were soaked to the skin when we finally made it back to the Palace.
The main topic on each of our minds has been the tiny window we thought we were going to see this week. Unfortunately, it seems to be disappearing before it ever developed. We'll keep our fingers crossed and hope for the best. Right now, it seems we are in for a few more days of this weather.
Saturday, January 21, 2006
Luperon, DR
19.54.031N
70.56.897W
It was rainy and windy today so Dale and I stayed on the boat most of the time. I had made a riding sail prior to leaving Florida and we attached it to the back of our boom today. It does seem to keep us from swinging so drastically in the winds that gust to 30kts (thankfully we haven't seen any 40 kts ones today,) but I worry that since I made it of canvas, it won't hold up in these winds.
Elaine and I took her laundry in during one of the dry spells and we walked up Gringo Hill for something to do. We stopped and explored a house that had been built but then left unfinished. It was in a hacienda style with the house built around a small open courtyard. We teased that if we can't get out of Luperon that we'd sell the boats and buy the house.
Later in the evening, we all made the wet dinghy ride in and trekked up the hill to hear Mike play his keyboard and saxophone. Terri seemed to be in better spirits since they didn't drag today when other boats did.
From the top of the hill we saw Darby (from Nicolino) trying to paddle with one oar against 20 kt winds. (She had made it to the dock but was blown back out again when she didn't get the boat tied up quickly enough.) Dale was on his way down to go get her when we saw Doug swing by and tow her in. She still mourns the loss of a custom dinghy (that "drove like a car") which was lost prior to arriving in Luperon. Gate purchased a new one but it is smaller and has an outboard motor that she hasn't mastered yet. Needless to say, by the time Gate arrived, Darby was wet, mad, frustrated (they've been here for 2 months) and on her second beer.
One sad note today. Norma is a tiny lady about 70 years old. She and her husband arrived here about 3 years ago with their cocker spaniel. Four months ago, her husband died of a heart attack. She decided that she loved Luperon, her boat, her dog, and her life here (social security goes a lot further here than it does in the US). Today, her dog died. Those that knew her well held a little funeral and were comforting her as best they could. I realize that it's her choice to live here, but I find myself wondering what will happen to her when people move on.
19.54.031N
70.56.897W
It was rainy and windy today so Dale and I stayed on the boat most of the time. I had made a riding sail prior to leaving Florida and we attached it to the back of our boom today. It does seem to keep us from swinging so drastically in the winds that gust to 30kts (thankfully we haven't seen any 40 kts ones today,) but I worry that since I made it of canvas, it won't hold up in these winds.
Elaine and I took her laundry in during one of the dry spells and we walked up Gringo Hill for something to do. We stopped and explored a house that had been built but then left unfinished. It was in a hacienda style with the house built around a small open courtyard. We teased that if we can't get out of Luperon that we'd sell the boats and buy the house.
Later in the evening, we all made the wet dinghy ride in and trekked up the hill to hear Mike play his keyboard and saxophone. Terri seemed to be in better spirits since they didn't drag today when other boats did.
From the top of the hill we saw Darby (from Nicolino) trying to paddle with one oar against 20 kt winds. (She had made it to the dock but was blown back out again when she didn't get the boat tied up quickly enough.) Dale was on his way down to go get her when we saw Doug swing by and tow her in. She still mourns the loss of a custom dinghy (that "drove like a car") which was lost prior to arriving in Luperon. Gate purchased a new one but it is smaller and has an outboard motor that she hasn't mastered yet. Needless to say, by the time Gate arrived, Darby was wet, mad, frustrated (they've been here for 2 months) and on her second beer.
One sad note today. Norma is a tiny lady about 70 years old. She and her husband arrived here about 3 years ago with their cocker spaniel. Four months ago, her husband died of a heart attack. She decided that she loved Luperon, her boat, her dog, and her life here (social security goes a lot further here than it does in the US). Today, her dog died. Those that knew her well held a little funeral and were comforting her as best they could. I realize that it's her choice to live here, but I find myself wondering what will happen to her when people move on.
Friday, January 20, 2006
Luperon, DR
19.54.031N
70.56.897W
Today was a farm yard day. Mike & Terry (MTNest), Roger & Elaine (Doc-No-More) and Dale & I met early to go horseback riding. Diane & Joe (Moon Goddess) declined as she was just getting over a bug and Joe was just coming down with it.
Mario picked us up at the government dock and took us to his home. While the rest were talking with his daughter, I watched as his stable boy brought in the horses and then as they selected the ones we would be using. I spotted a pretty red stallion that didn't look very old and stepped rather nicely when he was roped.
Mario selected a grey and asked who had experience riding. Mike indicated that he did and Mario proceeded to pair us up with horses that would match our abilities. Although I have experience, its more than 20 years old. I was hoping that it would be like riding a bicycle. He generally put the men on the livelier mounts but when he said that he was going to put me on a slow one, I declared my experience and was delighted when he indicated the red pony I had spotted. I was pleased to hear that the red preferred to be in the lead yet I had to prove to Mario that I could mount, ride, stop, and turn before he agreed to let me have it. Thank God it was like riding a bicycle.
Once I got my rhythm back, I became the instigator to a quicker ride and Dale and I rode in the front often allowing our horses to break into a trot and occasionally a gallop before Mario would put his hand over his heart and beg us to slow down. I have to admit, some of our fellow riders looked like they were clinging to the saddle horns for dear life. Poor Roger mounted reasonably well but for the life of him couldn't figure out how to get off when we stopped for a soda. Elaine sweet-talked her grey mare into keeping up but then learned that the mare was a follower; if we walked, she walked, if we trotted, she trotted. Throughout our 4 hour ride, Elaine stayed in the middle and was quite content to do so. Terri brought up the rear but flatly refused to use her heels or a switch to cajole her mare into keeping up. I don't think she was happy about it but she was one of the people who looked white knuckled too.
We rode along dirt roads throughout the countryside. Little farms nestled all the way up to the foot of the mountains; I thought it was beautiful. We still saw barefoot children playing in mud puddles but here it just reminded me of what country kids do on rainy afternoons.
We visited a local farm that made the cheese Elaine and I had purchased when we first got to Luperon. We stopped for a soda at a little shack alongside of the road and we stopped by a retaining pond that the farmers had constructed to help irrigate their farms. Mario told us of how back in the 50's the dictator had taken half of everyone's property for the state creating a mess of red tape to this day (since the government couldn't reimburse them for it, the people still retained title to the property so the government can't sell the property and the people can't use it.) He explained that the farmers became discouraged and stopped farming but that things are starting to change now and the government is encouraging people to farm again (he didn't say that the government was giving them back the property either.)
We returned in time for a late lunch in town and decided that we would catch the Friday afternoon cock fights at 3:00pm. The preparation was more interesting than the actual fights in my opinion. We watched as the roosters were shaved (except for their heads, wings and tails), taped and then the spurs were added to their legs. The one thing that we noticed, that we hadn't taken into consideration, was that there were "more people packin' than at the Policeman's Ball" (Dale's description). Most of those who were carrying handguns were asked to empty the chambers at the door to the club wielding and pistol packin' security guards. They were allowed to keep their weapons and keep their bullets so I'm not sure what type of deterrent this was supposed to create. We watched two fights, with its tickets and money going this way and that like the feathers that eventually flew, then left. Mike had started hooping and hollering when everyone else did and we got more of a kick out of him than we did the fights. But now we can say that we've been to a cockfight.
About half way in our walk back to the dinghy dock, Jose (our previous tour guide) caught up to us on his motorcycle and told us that one of our boats was dragging in the harbor. He didn't know which one it was. As we got closer, some other boaters recognized us and identified the the vessel as MTNest. We picked up our pace and I heard Terri tell Mike that she just wanted to leave (they've had a horrible time trying to stay anchored here.)
We got back in time to see several dinghies finish securing MTNest to Moon Goddess again. There were 3 anchors out at various angles and Diane told us that they had endured 44kt winds in the anchorage while we were gone. MTNest was one of many that had dragged. As they had 140' of chain out and they didn't want to put out a second anchor with the 360* turns we make in this harbor, we suggested that they add their second anchor to their primary about 40' back from their first anchor. They decided that this was a good idea and we helped them collect the anchors that held them in place and then re-anchor setting the two anchors. Dale had them square up on the single line and back down hard. They didn't appear to move, so we're hoping that they stay put for the rest of their time here.
Since we're now in the midst of the front that is moving through, we realize that we're going to be here for a while longer. It will take days for the seas to calm down after all of this wind.
19.54.031N
70.56.897W
Today was a farm yard day. Mike & Terry (MTNest), Roger & Elaine (Doc-No-More) and Dale & I met early to go horseback riding. Diane & Joe (Moon Goddess) declined as she was just getting over a bug and Joe was just coming down with it.
Mario picked us up at the government dock and took us to his home. While the rest were talking with his daughter, I watched as his stable boy brought in the horses and then as they selected the ones we would be using. I spotted a pretty red stallion that didn't look very old and stepped rather nicely when he was roped.
Mario selected a grey and asked who had experience riding. Mike indicated that he did and Mario proceeded to pair us up with horses that would match our abilities. Although I have experience, its more than 20 years old. I was hoping that it would be like riding a bicycle. He generally put the men on the livelier mounts but when he said that he was going to put me on a slow one, I declared my experience and was delighted when he indicated the red pony I had spotted. I was pleased to hear that the red preferred to be in the lead yet I had to prove to Mario that I could mount, ride, stop, and turn before he agreed to let me have it. Thank God it was like riding a bicycle.
Once I got my rhythm back, I became the instigator to a quicker ride and Dale and I rode in the front often allowing our horses to break into a trot and occasionally a gallop before Mario would put his hand over his heart and beg us to slow down. I have to admit, some of our fellow riders looked like they were clinging to the saddle horns for dear life. Poor Roger mounted reasonably well but for the life of him couldn't figure out how to get off when we stopped for a soda. Elaine sweet-talked her grey mare into keeping up but then learned that the mare was a follower; if we walked, she walked, if we trotted, she trotted. Throughout our 4 hour ride, Elaine stayed in the middle and was quite content to do so. Terri brought up the rear but flatly refused to use her heels or a switch to cajole her mare into keeping up. I don't think she was happy about it but she was one of the people who looked white knuckled too.
We rode along dirt roads throughout the countryside. Little farms nestled all the way up to the foot of the mountains; I thought it was beautiful. We still saw barefoot children playing in mud puddles but here it just reminded me of what country kids do on rainy afternoons.
We visited a local farm that made the cheese Elaine and I had purchased when we first got to Luperon. We stopped for a soda at a little shack alongside of the road and we stopped by a retaining pond that the farmers had constructed to help irrigate their farms. Mario told us of how back in the 50's the dictator had taken half of everyone's property for the state creating a mess of red tape to this day (since the government couldn't reimburse them for it, the people still retained title to the property so the government can't sell the property and the people can't use it.) He explained that the farmers became discouraged and stopped farming but that things are starting to change now and the government is encouraging people to farm again (he didn't say that the government was giving them back the property either.)
We returned in time for a late lunch in town and decided that we would catch the Friday afternoon cock fights at 3:00pm. The preparation was more interesting than the actual fights in my opinion. We watched as the roosters were shaved (except for their heads, wings and tails), taped and then the spurs were added to their legs. The one thing that we noticed, that we hadn't taken into consideration, was that there were "more people packin' than at the Policeman's Ball" (Dale's description). Most of those who were carrying handguns were asked to empty the chambers at the door to the club wielding and pistol packin' security guards. They were allowed to keep their weapons and keep their bullets so I'm not sure what type of deterrent this was supposed to create. We watched two fights, with its tickets and money going this way and that like the feathers that eventually flew, then left. Mike had started hooping and hollering when everyone else did and we got more of a kick out of him than we did the fights. But now we can say that we've been to a cockfight.
About half way in our walk back to the dinghy dock, Jose (our previous tour guide) caught up to us on his motorcycle and told us that one of our boats was dragging in the harbor. He didn't know which one it was. As we got closer, some other boaters recognized us and identified the the vessel as MTNest. We picked up our pace and I heard Terri tell Mike that she just wanted to leave (they've had a horrible time trying to stay anchored here.)
We got back in time to see several dinghies finish securing MTNest to Moon Goddess again. There were 3 anchors out at various angles and Diane told us that they had endured 44kt winds in the anchorage while we were gone. MTNest was one of many that had dragged. As they had 140' of chain out and they didn't want to put out a second anchor with the 360* turns we make in this harbor, we suggested that they add their second anchor to their primary about 40' back from their first anchor. They decided that this was a good idea and we helped them collect the anchors that held them in place and then re-anchor setting the two anchors. Dale had them square up on the single line and back down hard. They didn't appear to move, so we're hoping that they stay put for the rest of their time here.
Since we're now in the midst of the front that is moving through, we realize that we're going to be here for a while longer. It will take days for the seas to calm down after all of this wind.
Thursday, January 19, 2006
Luperon, DR
19.54.031N
70.56.897W
Happy Birthday Kyle! We love you.
Elaine and I got our hair cut today. A lady on another boat offered to do it for us. I guess you get what you pay for. Both of us ended up with quite short styles. At least mine grows quickly. It seems the longer we're out here, the shorter mine gets and the longer Dale's gets.
By the time I returned from my scalping, Gate and Darby from Nicolino (a sister ship to ours) were just getting off their dink for a visit to see the modifications we've made to the Palace for cruising. I'd heard that they keep their boat immaculate, so I was hoping that Dale had made the bed after we stripped it for taking to the laundry. I wasn't that lucky. They graciously oo'd and aah'd and then invited us over to theirs later in the day.
It rained off and on most of the day but we were able to join Roger & Elaine for a hike up the hill on the other side of the harbor to a proposed marina site. The developers have extensive plans but apparently faltered when it was discovered that they didn't hold a clear title. If its ever completed, it will be quite grand. Unfortunately, until the water is cleaned up, I don't see where they will attract the clientele it would take to make the waterfront condos, single family home sites and a golf course a successful business.
Between rain drops, we took our laundry in and then stopped by Nicolino to compare notes. It was true, their boat was immaculate. We found out that Gate is an interior designer for large hotel complexes. It showed. The boat was beautiful and inviting but it wasn't set up for long term cruising either. However, it did give me some ideas about making the cockpit more comfortable when we return stateside.
The nasty weather we've been watching should probably pass through here this weekend but we're hoping that we can go horseback riding tomorrow.
19.54.031N
70.56.897W
Happy Birthday Kyle! We love you.
Elaine and I got our hair cut today. A lady on another boat offered to do it for us. I guess you get what you pay for. Both of us ended up with quite short styles. At least mine grows quickly. It seems the longer we're out here, the shorter mine gets and the longer Dale's gets.
By the time I returned from my scalping, Gate and Darby from Nicolino (a sister ship to ours) were just getting off their dink for a visit to see the modifications we've made to the Palace for cruising. I'd heard that they keep their boat immaculate, so I was hoping that Dale had made the bed after we stripped it for taking to the laundry. I wasn't that lucky. They graciously oo'd and aah'd and then invited us over to theirs later in the day.
It rained off and on most of the day but we were able to join Roger & Elaine for a hike up the hill on the other side of the harbor to a proposed marina site. The developers have extensive plans but apparently faltered when it was discovered that they didn't hold a clear title. If its ever completed, it will be quite grand. Unfortunately, until the water is cleaned up, I don't see where they will attract the clientele it would take to make the waterfront condos, single family home sites and a golf course a successful business.
Between rain drops, we took our laundry in and then stopped by Nicolino to compare notes. It was true, their boat was immaculate. We found out that Gate is an interior designer for large hotel complexes. It showed. The boat was beautiful and inviting but it wasn't set up for long term cruising either. However, it did give me some ideas about making the cockpit more comfortable when we return stateside.
The nasty weather we've been watching should probably pass through here this weekend but we're hoping that we can go horseback riding tomorrow.
Wednesday, January 18, 2006
Luperon, DR
19.54.031N
70.56.897W
You know, you really don't exercise on a boat the way you do on land. I figured that running up and down our stairs on the companionway half a dozen times a day would put me in pretty good shape. However, today I feel each and every one of the 365 steps I climbed yesterday.
Dale and I went for a walk over the hill to the beach today to help loosen my legs up. Elaine and Roger joined us. We walked by 'Gringo Hill' where the ex-pats live and through the resort over by the beach. Then we followed a dirt road up the hill to the plateau that marks the way to the entrance channel to Luperon. From up there the view was magnificent. We could see the ocean to the north, the channel to the east and the harbor to the south with the mountains in the distance. Intermingled with all of this was farm land. Roger, Elaine and Dale deferred to my farm girl judgment in passing a herd of cattle that lounged in the middle of the road. So I picked up a stick and took the lead. I'm happy to report that nothing happened. Even the two Brahma bulls laying in the middle of the road ignored us as we passed by. (I have to admit, after wacking them on nose if they had challenged us, I'd run like hell. I try not to mess with bulls.)
If you only saw this little corner of the island, you'd live here in a heart beat. At the top of the hill looking down, there was a small house tucked below the plateau yet still quite a bit higher than sea level. It had a beautifully tended lawn and a rock fence surrounding the property. There's something about that house that's stayed in my mind. A lot smaller than the gringo houses but so peaceful and serene.
Later, Dale & I walked into town and stopped into Steve's Place where he checked our e-mail and I rocked Stephanie, Steve's 4 month old daughter, in a wicker rocking chair on an open air veranda. We met MTNest and Moon Goddess for lunch, then we dropped by the local bakery on our way back to the boat for a couple of loaves of freshly baked bread for slicing up and dipping in olive oil sauces for appetizers on MTNest later this evening. We were joined by our regular group plus Edgar on Nine-Twenty-Four (Jenny wasn't feeling well) and Marc and Louis, a couple of French Canadians on their way to St. Martin to pick up their wives. It was a wonderful day for enjoying the simple things in life.
19.54.031N
70.56.897W
You know, you really don't exercise on a boat the way you do on land. I figured that running up and down our stairs on the companionway half a dozen times a day would put me in pretty good shape. However, today I feel each and every one of the 365 steps I climbed yesterday.
Dale and I went for a walk over the hill to the beach today to help loosen my legs up. Elaine and Roger joined us. We walked by 'Gringo Hill' where the ex-pats live and through the resort over by the beach. Then we followed a dirt road up the hill to the plateau that marks the way to the entrance channel to Luperon. From up there the view was magnificent. We could see the ocean to the north, the channel to the east and the harbor to the south with the mountains in the distance. Intermingled with all of this was farm land. Roger, Elaine and Dale deferred to my farm girl judgment in passing a herd of cattle that lounged in the middle of the road. So I picked up a stick and took the lead. I'm happy to report that nothing happened. Even the two Brahma bulls laying in the middle of the road ignored us as we passed by. (I have to admit, after wacking them on nose if they had challenged us, I'd run like hell. I try not to mess with bulls.)
If you only saw this little corner of the island, you'd live here in a heart beat. At the top of the hill looking down, there was a small house tucked below the plateau yet still quite a bit higher than sea level. It had a beautifully tended lawn and a rock fence surrounding the property. There's something about that house that's stayed in my mind. A lot smaller than the gringo houses but so peaceful and serene.
Later, Dale & I walked into town and stopped into Steve's Place where he checked our e-mail and I rocked Stephanie, Steve's 4 month old daughter, in a wicker rocking chair on an open air veranda. We met MTNest and Moon Goddess for lunch, then we dropped by the local bakery on our way back to the boat for a couple of loaves of freshly baked bread for slicing up and dipping in olive oil sauces for appetizers on MTNest later this evening. We were joined by our regular group plus Edgar on Nine-Twenty-Four (Jenny wasn't feeling well) and Marc and Louis, a couple of French Canadians on their way to St. Martin to pick up their wives. It was a wonderful day for enjoying the simple things in life.
Tuesday, January 17, 2006
Luperon, DR
19.54.031N
70.56.897W
I believe I've mentioned before how just doing the simple things can take an entire day. Today was one of those days. We hired a minibus to take the four boat crews (Doc-No-More, MTNest, Moon Goddess and us) to Santiago to do our grocery shopping. Janet at the marina loaned us her Price Club Card so we were excited to go shopping American style. However, we knew that we had to be back to the marina by 5:00 pm because Mike (MTNest) was going to be performing at happy hour. He's a very talented keyboard and saxophonist. (Remember back when we were in Georgetown and I thought the guy who played during the Christmas sing along might be a preacher? Well, he's a retired music teacher and has a rather ribald sense of humor.)
We stopped at the monument to various revolutions in Santiago and climbed the 365 steps to the top. After we descended, we apparently offended the local who opened the door for us because we didn't tip him to his expectations. We've been told that there is a fine line between tipping for a service and being "stupid". The only thing this guy did was open the door; we certainly weren't going to tip him the $5 he wanted from each of us and he wasn't very happy with what we offered, so we left.
We then went to a Radio Shack at the local mall to pick up a couple of motion detectors we had been told about. (We heard a first hand account of an incident in Venezuela where a boater was boarded by would be thieves.) While we were at the mall, we had lunch at their food court. All of the Dominicans were eating at the Kentucky Fried Chicken, Dominios and Chinese food take out, and all of the 'gringos' were eating at the DR fast food place. Dale & I decided to eat at the Puerto Rican sandwich shop.
From there we did our grocery shopping. First at the Price Club and then at another local grocery store. Unfortunately, when we returned from our second store, our driver was missing in action. It took us a hour to track him down. I don't think we ever did completely understand where he disappeared to. Of course, this put us dangerously close to running out of time as we were over an hour away from Luperon.
Unlike our way to Santiago when we got caught behind a horse drawn buggy (like what you might see the Amish drive,) on our way back we were behind a convoy of trucks hauling dirt/mud up the mountain side and then down the other. We didn't pull in to the marina until 5:30 pm and then we had to dinghy our food back to our boats before returning to watch Mike perform.
However, it was a great ending to the day. A couple of the other boaters got up to sing while Mike played the keyboard and Nancy played guitar. It's amazing when people have such clear, beautiful voices sitting next to you but put a mike in their hands and suddenly every squeak comes out.
19.54.031N
70.56.897W
I believe I've mentioned before how just doing the simple things can take an entire day. Today was one of those days. We hired a minibus to take the four boat crews (Doc-No-More, MTNest, Moon Goddess and us) to Santiago to do our grocery shopping. Janet at the marina loaned us her Price Club Card so we were excited to go shopping American style. However, we knew that we had to be back to the marina by 5:00 pm because Mike (MTNest) was going to be performing at happy hour. He's a very talented keyboard and saxophonist. (Remember back when we were in Georgetown and I thought the guy who played during the Christmas sing along might be a preacher? Well, he's a retired music teacher and has a rather ribald sense of humor.)
We stopped at the monument to various revolutions in Santiago and climbed the 365 steps to the top. After we descended, we apparently offended the local who opened the door for us because we didn't tip him to his expectations. We've been told that there is a fine line between tipping for a service and being "stupid". The only thing this guy did was open the door; we certainly weren't going to tip him the $5 he wanted from each of us and he wasn't very happy with what we offered, so we left.
We then went to a Radio Shack at the local mall to pick up a couple of motion detectors we had been told about. (We heard a first hand account of an incident in Venezuela where a boater was boarded by would be thieves.) While we were at the mall, we had lunch at their food court. All of the Dominicans were eating at the Kentucky Fried Chicken, Dominios and Chinese food take out, and all of the 'gringos' were eating at the DR fast food place. Dale & I decided to eat at the Puerto Rican sandwich shop.
From there we did our grocery shopping. First at the Price Club and then at another local grocery store. Unfortunately, when we returned from our second store, our driver was missing in action. It took us a hour to track him down. I don't think we ever did completely understand where he disappeared to. Of course, this put us dangerously close to running out of time as we were over an hour away from Luperon.
Unlike our way to Santiago when we got caught behind a horse drawn buggy (like what you might see the Amish drive,) on our way back we were behind a convoy of trucks hauling dirt/mud up the mountain side and then down the other. We didn't pull in to the marina until 5:30 pm and then we had to dinghy our food back to our boats before returning to watch Mike perform.
However, it was a great ending to the day. A couple of the other boaters got up to sing while Mike played the keyboard and Nancy played guitar. It's amazing when people have such clear, beautiful voices sitting next to you but put a mike in their hands and suddenly every squeak comes out.
Monday, January 16, 2006
Luperon, DR
19.54.031N
70.56.897W
About 2:30 am there was a kiss in the night. Thank God it wasn't us; it was MTNest and Moon Goddess. Poor Terri and Mike had been exhausted when they arrived and it took them half a dozen tries at two different locations with two different anchors to get one to set. So when they bumped Moon Goddess in the night, Terri was in no mood to reset the anchor. They started off trying to untangle their anchors but ended up just rafting together for the remainder of the night. Dale and Roger went over first thing this morning to help them untangle and reset the anchor. So far its held. After discussing the situation ad nauseam we decided that they probably didn't drag but instead bumped because they were closer to the mangroves where the current passes by quicker than in the middle area. Moon Goddess was further in and probably didn't turn as quickly as they did when the tides changed. Anyway, they're untangled now and hopefully it won't happen again.
Mike had fun the with interaction by saying that after they rafted up he heard a lot of moaning and groaning but when he went topside, he found that with all of the bumping and grinding during the night, the two boats had produced a little one between them (the dingy had wedged itself between the two boats). Mike is quite the jokester and I look forward to having them in our little group heading south.
I finished making my rain catcher and we've decided to put it on the back suspended between the two arches. This way the cockpit protects it some from the wind while the arches support it. I hope it works this time. We've missed a couple of opportunities to replenish our water supply. Also, with this one totally devoted to catching water, I can make sure it stays clean and not have to waste water by waiting for the rain to wash it off first.
The rest of the day was spent reading and baking an hors d'oeuvre for our cocktail hour on Doc-No-More. Elaine had also invited MTNest, Moon Goddess and Meridian Chaser. We figure that there will be about 9 boats trying to catch the next weather window. Moon Goddess and Meridian Chaser are monohulls, so we won't be left in the dust by Doc-No-More and MTNest which are catamarans.
Tomorrow we are all going shopping in Santiago. If you can't do anything else, go shopping.
19.54.031N
70.56.897W
About 2:30 am there was a kiss in the night. Thank God it wasn't us; it was MTNest and Moon Goddess. Poor Terri and Mike had been exhausted when they arrived and it took them half a dozen tries at two different locations with two different anchors to get one to set. So when they bumped Moon Goddess in the night, Terri was in no mood to reset the anchor. They started off trying to untangle their anchors but ended up just rafting together for the remainder of the night. Dale and Roger went over first thing this morning to help them untangle and reset the anchor. So far its held. After discussing the situation ad nauseam we decided that they probably didn't drag but instead bumped because they were closer to the mangroves where the current passes by quicker than in the middle area. Moon Goddess was further in and probably didn't turn as quickly as they did when the tides changed. Anyway, they're untangled now and hopefully it won't happen again.
Mike had fun the with interaction by saying that after they rafted up he heard a lot of moaning and groaning but when he went topside, he found that with all of the bumping and grinding during the night, the two boats had produced a little one between them (the dingy had wedged itself between the two boats). Mike is quite the jokester and I look forward to having them in our little group heading south.
I finished making my rain catcher and we've decided to put it on the back suspended between the two arches. This way the cockpit protects it some from the wind while the arches support it. I hope it works this time. We've missed a couple of opportunities to replenish our water supply. Also, with this one totally devoted to catching water, I can make sure it stays clean and not have to waste water by waiting for the rain to wash it off first.
The rest of the day was spent reading and baking an hors d'oeuvre for our cocktail hour on Doc-No-More. Elaine had also invited MTNest, Moon Goddess and Meridian Chaser. We figure that there will be about 9 boats trying to catch the next weather window. Moon Goddess and Meridian Chaser are monohulls, so we won't be left in the dust by Doc-No-More and MTNest which are catamarans.
Tomorrow we are all going shopping in Santiago. If you can't do anything else, go shopping.
Sunday, January 15, 2006
Luperon, DR
19.54.031N
70.56.897W
This morning started off rainy but ended up as another beautiful day in paradise, DR style. We joined Doc-No-More, MTNest and Moon Goddess at the fleamarket/barbeque, then returned to our boat for the remainder of the day. I had decided that we needed a different type of rain catchment system. The one I had originally sewn was an awning for the front of our boat that when dropped down would catch water in a drain that we could connect a water hose to. However, in using it, we discovered that it was too large when there was any wind involved. So, I made a simple square one, with the same drain system. It took me the better part of the day to put it together but I should have it finished by tomorrow. In the meantime, Dale started reading "Into Thin Air." Unfortunately, this makes for a very boring entry into the blog.
19.54.031N
70.56.897W
This morning started off rainy but ended up as another beautiful day in paradise, DR style. We joined Doc-No-More, MTNest and Moon Goddess at the fleamarket/barbeque, then returned to our boat for the remainder of the day. I had decided that we needed a different type of rain catchment system. The one I had originally sewn was an awning for the front of our boat that when dropped down would catch water in a drain that we could connect a water hose to. However, in using it, we discovered that it was too large when there was any wind involved. So, I made a simple square one, with the same drain system. It took me the better part of the day to put it together but I should have it finished by tomorrow. In the meantime, Dale started reading "Into Thin Air." Unfortunately, this makes for a very boring entry into the blog.
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